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100,000 Mile Service Time

This is a discussion on 100,000 Mile Service Time within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; My 2002 SS is about to roll over to 100K so I have it scheduled for Monday to get new ...

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    Platypus Control Director BigFrog's Avatar
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    Question 100,000 Mile Service Time

    My 2002 SS is about to roll over to 100K so I have it scheduled for Monday to get new plugs (AC Delco Platinum) and new plug wires (MDS Superconductor). I am hoping this solves a problem I have had with the car acting jerking under moderate acceleration, especially at first. It feels almost like "turbo lag" only it's immediate and it comes and goes, like the car has two different power levels and it can't decide which one to use at first. After a second or two of acceleration it runs smooth. It has never backfired. A "fuel system service" at a dealership a few months ago made no difference.

    Is there anything else specifically I should have checked/replaced/adjusted at this milepost? The work is being done in a private shop by a 25 year master mechanic, not at a dealership.

    THANKS IN ADVANCE!

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    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    did they replace the fuel filter in the fuel service or just run something through the system to "clean" it? If you havent cleaned the MAF or throttle body lately, i'd recommend doing that yourself...you'd be surprised at how much better the car idle's with a good clean MAF. Not saying that will fix your stutter issue, but it certainly will not hurt.

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    Platypus Control Director BigFrog's Avatar
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    They replaced the filter and cleaned the injectors - or so they said. It starts and idles perfectly, but give it half throttle and it takes off, then kinda, lags or "misses" or something for a second, then it's off again.

    Transmission is the M6.
    Last edited by BigFrog; 05-14-2014 at 11:56 AM.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Clean the MAF, and if it hasn't been done yet, it's way past due for a set of 02's.

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    Platypus Control Director BigFrog's Avatar
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    I just read a couple of threads about MAF cleanup, going to do that tomorrow (Wife's birthday today, want to live until tomorrow).

    Again, very thankful for the support I always find here.

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    Agree with the recommendations already posted. If you replace the O2 senders - the Bosch P/N 13111 senders work great if you have headers as they come with a long wire harness.

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    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigFrog View Post
    I just read a couple of threads about MAF cleanup, going to do that tomorrow (Wife's birthday today, want to live until tomorrow).

    Again, very thankful for the support I always find here.
    When you spray the maf with maf cleaner, make sure you don't touch anything with the straw and let it dry for a good 30mins before you put it back in...spray with MAF cleaner, let it sit, put it back in, and you're done. Might want to unplug the battery too...never a bad idea.
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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    You may need to check for buildup on the TB that the dealers cleaning missed. Also carefully clean the MAF with the proper cleaner. I would also upgrade your plugs to iridium so you never have to deal with them again.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    Platypus Control Director BigFrog's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of the tips. How much more would I expect to pay for Iridium plugs? I thought the general consensus was to stay with the stock plugs on a stock engine.

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    I installed Iridiums in our Suburban last year. Autozone sells them for $6.99 each. It is really just a matter of choice -- in our Trans Am, I went with the NGK TR-55 plugs. They're easily good for at least 30,000 miles and since we usually put less than 2,500 miles a year on our car it isn't a big deal.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigFrog View Post
    Thanks for all of the tips. How much more would I expect to pay for Iridium plugs? I thought the general consensus was to stay with the stock plugs on a stock engine.
    As Jeff said they are about 7 dollars each but the main point is they last well over 100k and they almost never foul so you put them in once and you are done for the life of the vehicle.

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    Platypus Control Director BigFrog's Avatar
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    UPDATE: Used the MAF cleaner and WOW - much improved! The missing/jerking/hesitating and sketchy acceleration problem is GONE.

    I can't wait until Monday for the new plugs. Does AC/Delco make an iridium for the LS1 or do I need to go NGK or elsewhere for them? Either way, I had a 2005 Durango with the HEMI and when we put all (16) new platinum in it at 45K miles it made a huge difference in power and mileage. CAN'T WAIT!

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    Do you run a K&N (or other oiled cotton gauze style) air filter?

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    Experienced Old Fart jfl330's Avatar
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    Does AC/Delco make an iridium for the LS1 or do I need to go NGK or elsewhere for them?

    AC 41-110, gapped to 0.040".

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    Platypus Control Director BigFrog's Avatar
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    K&N

    - - - Updated - - -

    TYVM!

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    Ok -that may explain your problem. Oil from the filter can coat the wires in the MAF and cause dirt particles to adhere to them. This insulates the wires and results in the MAF misreporting airflow to the PCM. Best bet is to run a dry style nanofiber or even a paper air filter element in our cars. The K&N allows more dirt into the engine than these style filters, plus excess oil messes with the MAF.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfl330 View Post
    Does AC/Delco make an iridium for the LS1 or do I need to go NGK or elsewhere for them?

    AC 41-110, gapped to 0.040".
    FYI - Iridium plugs are pre-gaped don't need to be touched. The tip is very pointed and you could damage the plug with a gap gauge.

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    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Jeff is right...9 times out of 10 a K&N causes more problems than its worth "ask me how I know lol"...your oil will be cleaner with a paper filter as well. IMO...keeping your engine internals clean is way more important than the minimal flow gain you get with a K&N vs a paper filter...as long as you have an after market lid, your air flow will be fine with a paper filter.

    have fun with the spark plug change if its your first time on an Fbody lol prepare to get aggravated

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    Might as well do all the fluids, coolant, brake, clutch and rearend also.

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