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**read Me Before Asking... The Exhaust System**

This is a discussion on **read Me Before Asking... The Exhaust System** within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; ...

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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    Exclamation **read Me Before Asking... The Exhaust System**

    Here’s my little FAQ for you guys on exhaust systems. Its short and sweet and about all you need to get a general idea of what the differences are in them. This is to also eliminate all the “What headers should I get?” or “What’s the difference in coated, non coated and stainless?” questions. Any threads that can easily be answered in this thread will be deleted. Take the time to read and research. Let me know if you guys have any questions, comments, corrections...anything! Post up!

    Coated vs. Non-coated vs. stainless:

    Non-coated- probably going to be the cheapest of them all. They’re coated with hitemp paint. These will generally rust rather quickly in salty or wet areas and will last 2-4yrs…maybe!

    Ceramic Coated- Ceramic coated headers are about the most commonly used headers. They’re going to last longer than non-coated headers. (Maybe another 2-3 years depending on what the weather is like in the area) Reduce under the hood temps. Quite a bit compared to non-coated. If the protective coating is scratched though, plan on them rusting a bit sooner. They also have a nice finish to them that adds a bit of bling to the engine bay.

    Stainless- Stainless are the most expensive of them all, but will outlive the car. They will not rust so you don’t have to worry about that. Really all there is to it.

    Different types of header lengths:
    Shorties: shorties will add a slight power gain over stock, but not much on n/a engines. The main reason for shorties is to get better flow than stock while still being legal. Don’t expect more than about 10hp or so with them. Forced induction applications will see better gains with them though.

    Mids: Mac and Bassani are the main midlength header makers. They will yield you a bit more torque and hp over the shorties, and will not choke your cam. These are not CARB legal. When getting these headers, you also need to plan on a new ypipe because the stock one will not work with the added length.

    LT’s: Full out long tubes! You get the best scavenging with these headers. Defiantly not legal, but show the best gains overall! When getting these headers, you also need to plan on a new ypipe because the stock one will not work with the added length.

    RACE STYLE vs. NON-RACESTYLE:
    This subject pertains to you emission fittings. 98-00 Have EGR and AIR fittings and 01-02 just have air fittings. Race style has none of them. If you don’t plan on putting your EGR or AIR back on, then race style is the way to go. Looks much cleaner or you could get the headers with the emission fittings, get a block off kit and still remove the emission components.

    DUALS vs. YPIPE:

    Duals sound sweet!!! Mandrel bends are the only way to go from the headers all the way past the x or h pipe to keep cross flow to a maximum. Dumped systems are cheaper than over/under the axle setups. Over is about 2x what the dumped cost and under about 150 or so more. 3” is generally what you want all the way to the muffler and 2.5 on back.

    Ypipes-
    ORY- no cats
    Catted – has cats. Simple enough.
    Ypipe setups flow very well contrary to what some may think when comparing them to duals. There are so many fast ass cars out there running Ypipes that are not only quick, but yield great dyno numbers. You will get maximum flow out of these systems with a cutout…either a normal or electric.

    That’s pretty much the jist of it all. I don’t have the time nor the urge to get really down and dirty with the explanation and thorough breakdown of each and every component. Here are a few of the main headers out there for LSx vehicles:

    Non stainless-
    PACESETTERS
    EDLEBROCK
    HEDMAN
    FLOWTECH
    JETHOT
    HOOKER
    JBA
    THUNDER RACING’S

    STAINLESS:
    QTP
    KOOKS
    STAINLESS WORKS
    DYNATECH

    I may have forgotten a few, but this will get you by
    Enjoy!
    Nino

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    nice write up Nino, very informative for those looking, are you going to make this a sticky??

    maybe we also need a muffler write up to go with it?? there are a lot of questions asked about his also.

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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    Thanks. It is already a sticky Oh shit!! I forgot to post this!!! DO NOT GET THE SLP HEADERS/YPIPE SETUP!! Clearance sucks, flow sucks and they're too expensive. As for mufflers, stay away from Flowmaster. It sounds great, but flows like shit. All the others are pretty great flowing units. Slp dual/dual is a stock sounding muffler with one of the best flows. The loudmouth with lt's and no cats is a can u say RASPY AS HELL??!!!! Its all a matter of how much you wanna spend and what your preference is..loud or quiet.

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    i do agree with the flowmaster 80 series but i have found that on the true dual set up's that the flowmaster 1 chambers are cheep flow great and have an extremly agressive sound, i will get up a clip of a 97 SS with true duals and the 1 chambers you will love it.

    hey get this set up for a real sleeper, im rebuilding my engine going with big cam, 3,000 stall and Pacesetters and a custom 3in y pipe(with cutout) but am going to run it throuhg the stock mufflers!!! LOL cant wait to hear the sound of that it will be very interesting!!!

    and the moroso sprial flows are great at WOT and flow pretty well also.

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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    oh shit, i dont have my sig...ive got pacesetters, tsp's cattedy and the stock muffler.

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    how does it sound?? im really interested??? ill prolly leave the cutout open for the most part unless ill be going somewhere nice or whatever.

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    nice and quiet...i do however miss my duals

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    is it as quiet as stock?? i will also be running a cam in this car.

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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    i was also running a cam its slightly louder than stock, but nothing insane. I had the f10 114 in there, but i just upgraded as well as my heads

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    Nice write up, everything is clear except for what exactly is the AIR fitting for? I have an 01 so i dont have to worry about the EGR but im looking into buying headers and i wanna know. Thanks

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    sorry, the AIR system provides fresh air to the cats to heat them during a cold start. They work for about the first 5 minutes the car is turned on.

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninobrn99
    i was also running a cam its slightly louder than stock, but nothing insane. I had the f10 114 in there, but i just upgraded as well as my heads
    nice so i guess ill be leaving that cuout open all the time,

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    oh yeah, after about 500hp or so jet hot cats suck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! right Ed

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    haha, and i wont be having an cats.

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    Blown, Stroked, & Sprayed

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    Quote Originally Posted by ninobrn99
    oh yeah, after about 500hp or so jet hot cats suck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! right Ed
    Actually they blow

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    that too

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    used and abused at wot ibanez7's Avatar
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    a couple of things you might want to list.

    Stainless steel, does indeed rust. Its not a typical flacking rust, instead it forms rust pits.

    Also any performance shop (in ex: speed inc) will state that true dual is pointless unless your engine is bored larger, or if you running a big block. Single exhaust is just fine for 350 ls1s with bolt ons/head and cams.

    Also if plan on doing a single turbo set up (not the shitty sts) you have to run single exhaust anyways. So if you long term plan is for a turbo, dont do a true dual setup.

    It all starts with a plan and you always modify from the ground up.

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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    you already did

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    Quote Originally Posted by ibanez7
    a couple of things you might want to list.

    Stainless steel, does indeed rust. Its not a typical flacking rust, instead it forms rust pits.

    Also any performance shop (in ex: speed inc) will state that true dual is pointless unless your engine is bored larger, or if you running a big block. Single exhaust is just fine for 350 ls1s with bolt ons/head and cams.

    Also if plan on doing a single turbo set up (not the shitty sts) you have to run single exhaust anyways. So if you long term plan is for a turbo, dont do a true dual setup.

    It all starts with a plan and you always modify from the ground up.
    Some people like the sound also...

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    Quote Originally Posted by ibanez7
    a couple of things you might want to list.

    Stainless steel, does indeed rust. Its not a typical flacking rust, instead it forms rust pits.

    Also any performance shop (in ex: speed inc) will state that true dual is pointless unless your engine is bored larger, or if you running a big block. Single exhaust is just fine for 350 ls1s with bolt ons/head and cams.

    Also if plan on doing a single turbo set up (not the shitty sts) you have to run single exhaust anyways. So if you long term plan is for a turbo, dont do a true dual setup.

    It all starts with a plan and you always modify from the ground up.
    This is actually not true at all. What alot of people dont understand is that it doesnt matter if you have a 305, 350, 454, or a 502.... If they all make the same power they will flow the exact same amount of air as exaust. As stupid and rediculas as it sounds its true. Exaust is a bi-product of combustion, the more power you make the bigger the combustion. So if you have a 305 or LS1 making 500HP or more.... Duals are the only way to go unless your running a single turbo set-up. Anything less will be seriously restricting your set-up. Also if your running duals you should run at least 2.5 or 3".

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