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$$$ for Opti replacement in S/E Michigan

This is a discussion on $$$ for Opti replacement in S/E Michigan within the External Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I am just putting out a feeler to see if anyone would be willing to come out to Dearborn to ...

  1. #1
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    1993 Firebird Formula

    $$$ for Opti replacement in S/E Michigan

    I am just putting out a feeler to see if anyone would be willing to come out to Dearborn to replace my optispark and how much you would charge.

    I don't want to take it to a shop or the dealer due to the extreme cost and the fact that they don't always try very hard to protect my paint while they are working.

    I understand it's not terribly difficult and I could probably do it myself, but my skills aren't the best when it comes to removing stubborn car parts. My car is a 93 'bird BTW.

  2. #2
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    I would not personally do it for any less $$$ than a shop.

    Matter of fact,they'll make much more $/hour than me.


    But...


    do you have a jack, some jackstands and some basics sockets?


    You can do this yourself, it is not that hard.

    You have to jack the car up, drain the antifreeze and remove the water pump...

    then the old opti...


    then replace the timing cover seals for the water pump and opti with new ones from GM... go to your Chevy dealer...

    ... the water pump drive shaft seal it tough to get out, use a smaller flat blade screwdriver and if needed a rubber hammer, pry on MANY points around the circumference... eventually it will begin to dislodge and your common sense will engage and show you the way to complete removal...

    clean everything you touch as you go... just good practice...

    pre-lube the timing cover and seals with heavy Silicone grease or Vaseline as you re-install...


    tap the new water pump drive seal into the timing cover with a socket that is big enough (deep well preferred) to only touch METAL...

    ... and take your time, this can be tricky...


    do not force the opti on... if it doesn't fully seat with a "thunk" the driveshaft is not aligned correctly (it is keyed so it WILL align easily once you finally get it lined up right... use the old distributor to get a "good starting point" to align the new distributor... eyeball it... then lots of silicone or Vaseline... to help keep things from moving but from tearing the seals... remember, at this point you should have put in a new Opti drive shaft seal too!... ).


    Anyway, it is a royal PITA.


    But you can do it yourself.

    Why pay $400 to someone else.. and miss the "bonding" with your car.

    It is like boinking your woman... or sharing the bathroom while the other poops...

    I don't recommend the latter.


    -T (an old married fart with hot-rod desires and commuter car budget, and a wife who doesn't work full time)

  3. #3
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    Are there many opportunities to break bolts and things while doing this job? My main worry would be if a bolt or something breaks and I would be unable to continue at that point.

    Would you recommend taking the radiator out or is it manageable laying on one's back with the fans removed?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shudson105 View Post
    Are there many opportunities to break bolts and things while doing this job? My main worry would be if a bolt or something breaks and I would be unable to continue at that point.

    Would you recommend taking the radiator out or is it manageable laying on one's back with the fans removed?
    you won't break any bolts or parts... they come out easy... no need to take the radiator out at all... just don't get water or coolant on the new optijunk...

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