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What should I be asking for my car? Part out, or whole?

This is a discussion on What should I be asking for my car? Part out, or whole? within the Corvette forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; As title says I'm just curious what you'd ask for it if you were me. Or if you'd part it ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Monterey, Ca

    1998 Z28

    What should I be asking for my car? Part out, or whole?

    As title says I'm just curious what you'd ask for it if you were me. Or if you'd part it out or sell as whole. Car runs but not right and I'm tired of fighting it cant find a decent tuner / mechanic who'll work on it, nothing feels wrong with it beyond all the codes it throws; Maybe un STS it? I don't know.

    Major change from what it was is just rebuilt motor, throw out bearing, rest came with the car basically. Tons of pics if interested I bought it beat to death, when it had popped at an event. Been slowly restoring it for way too long, wanted a once in a lifetime super car (for me kids, wife mortgage, California, only worker in family this was my best shot, sold all other toys and haven't bought one since) I get it all back together and it just fights me.

    2003 Z06, 100k miles Blk/Blk, 6spd I'm 3rd owner, 2nd owner was my half brother, very clean mechanically, the paint and body are below average imho. It has baseball sized paint blister on rear cover, both front fenders are damaged down low, couple big rub damages on bottom of car. It sits on stock rims which are a little beat up curb rash and such, dead rear tires, fronts not far behind 20%;
    Interior is avg seats are split at a seam dash is ok, but plastic is ratty, not cracked anywhere obvious yet but brittle. Door cards are good; Hud works well, ac has a scratch, radio has done the ol' unpaint on some buttons.
    AC is not working needs vacuum and charge.

    Borla exahust off car already as it's sts'ed ?? Like a disease

    On car:
    B&M Shifter
    Willwood Sl6 upfront with good pads, Hawk lines, pad and rotor upgrade in rear.
    Wolf bolt in roll cage (the disliked one as it's all to fiberglass more or less)
    LG2 Coil Overs
    T1/T2 Sway Bars
    PFADT Motor Mounts, and Rear diff mount
    Transmission X-oskeleton deal red bar tube thing (names excaping me)
    Double thick insulated tunnel cover
    TICK Brake Hydraulic
    RAM Throwout with quick bleed lines (think it's probably hammered or just obnoxiously loud )
    Exedy Twin Disc, with Flywheel
    New Starter
    New Alternator w/ over drive pulley
    Skip Shift Eliminator
    Column Lock Bypass
    Racetronix intank pump kit with the tank drain, and harness.
    MSD Programmable BAP; *wired but not connected*
    Autometer WB02 in driver side exhaust
    Dynojet WB02 in passenger side
    New Radiator support
    New air dam
    New Sensors (CPK, CPS)
    HP Tuners on a Toshiba L675 laptop
    STS kit, with IC/watermeth/dual stage controller/oil pressure/oil temp guages @ turbo/ custom turbo oil plumbing with sump, not running oil from engine, hidden in bumper;
    Boost Gauge, AF gauge.
    Rebuilt stock block almost all arp (harmonic,mains, head studs, rods, timing covers, flywheel, pan)
    Stock Intake
    Jegs 20% under drive pulley
    60# Siemiens Injectors closer to 70# tall boys everyone hates.
    DEI Engine Girdle
    Stock heads with new valve guides, seals, cleaned up stock valves, Patriot Gold .650 springs, Titanium keeper etc, Yella Terra UltraLites 1.7ratio, NOS LS6 camshaft, comp cam r liter, comp cam pushrods (stock length), JP dual roller, Edelbrock 2 Peice Timing cover, polished oil pump; Forged Wiseco -3cc dish Pistons 3.905, forged CPS rods, and forged CPS stock crank, and rod length, clevite bearings, dynamic balanced (internal to harmonic and flywheel);

    I went through the entire car mechanically, it is super clean mechanically but the computers on this car are sucking and tuning has been difficult. It does run and drive just not what I would have expected, it was faster on stock motor with 6psi and cracked ring lands. STS wants 1000.00 to send me the original tune tho I still have the predator it lost tune car had.

    That I think does it...
    It is a California Car, it has EO# from STS, it pulls strong but is computer issuing me to death. I bought it with almost all of the mods on it and blown ring lands inow on a forged motor. I'm very confused this is my 7th lsx built car and the worst one ever by far. So disappointed and 4 years into a 3 month project. Sometimes it's best to let things go. What would you do, sell it? Part it out? Keep fighting? Dunno anymore.

  2. #2
    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Branchville, NJ

    Silver & Blue
    02 Camaro SS, 04 GTO

    If you have the space, time and ability to tear this car apart you will make more money but it will take time and money to sell all those parts. If it is that ratty I would ask 10k obo and field offers.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

  3. #3
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005

    98 Formula
    06 duramax

    I know where you're coming from....sometimes you just have to know when enough is enough. I think though that you just need to find the right person to look at the car. Someone that has experience on the electrical side. Too many times you have great wrench turners but they might not be that strong when it comes to diagnosing electrical. As far as what you should do....that's tricky. I personally would start tackling each issue one at a time and not focus on the big picture just yet. You have codes so you're being pointed. It's a matter now of just tracing them down 1 at a time. I do understand though that at some point you have to just throw your hands up and write it off as a learning experience. Other than a psychological drain is it hurting anything by being torn apart? Financially or space wise? If not I would definitely start tackling it but if it's more than just a pain in the ass I would start shopping it around.

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Monterey, Ca

    1998 Z28

    Thanks for replies first it's tough to part out sentimentally else I have no rush been sitting on another ls1 for years. Too me 10k seems low it does drive fair, it just feels slow to me and idle hunts which sound lopey. Cars other Ac needs a charge, and two rear tires with an alignment. Rest is all in the oddball tune and electric (sts for me has been hard to tune) interior has avg damage for 100000 mile car. Paint can be fixed up doesn't need a full respray or nothing. Sitting on a glovebox for 10 years meh, I'm in no rush for money but not my style. Just sometimes cars are anti owner/mechanic/project. I'm a solid wrench and above average electrical(so I thought anyway as I'm the one in my car friends group who gets it at all including efi); tired of this one and it's nonsense. Really want to known what grounds go where on the sp201 splitter behind batt box. Other codes seem nonsensical, or obvious. That's all in another post, got 1 sell it, 1/2 eye on prize 1/2 on part it out.

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