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Compression spec

This is a discussion on Compression spec within the Corvette forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hi guys, Does anyone have a quick spec on compression checks? 150-160 ??? 2000 LS1...

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    Compression spec

    Hi guys, Does anyone have a quick spec on compression checks? 150-160 ??? 2000 LS1

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    Honestly, I have never looked at the spec. I can check my service manual in the a.m. if no one else chimes in.

    BTW -- welcome to the site!

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    Thanks Jeff... The only LS manual I have is for the 5.3 and it might be the same but I'm not sure. Just wanted to post and chat up the site some while I am here looking around.

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    My 2002 manual lists the cylinder compression for an F-body as 10.1:1 and for a Y-body as 10.5:1. Unfortunately, I was not able to locate the compression figures in p.s.i. -- the index is not the best and I resorted to scanning pages in areas of the manual that I thought it might be listed. I will check again this evening.

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    Ok Jeff thanks for checking...

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    Struck out -- found the section of the manual that details compression testing the engine, but there is no spec provided. They simply give the standard "within 10% of one another" and tell you how to perform the test. I also read through all the specs in the introductory tables and nothing there either.

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    I read somewhere else that it shouldn't be below 100...and no cylinder should be less than 70% of the highest cylinder reading.
    It's on jackstands.

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    ^^ That sounds like about what I read in the testing procedure. I want to say that a healthy engine should have at least 180 psi, but I have nothing to reference that to.

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    Yea I've seen them range pretty widely over the years. Some are around 220 and others as low as 120. Also depends on whether it is a dry test or wet. Could have been because of different heads/cam too though. I believe the above is from a stock 98 LS1, which would be similar to a 2000.

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    FWIW, the test procedure is fully charge the battery, disable both the ignition and fuel systems (pull fuses or relays), remove all 8 spark plugs, block the throttle plate wide open, and turn the engine over 4 times for each cylinder. If you get a low reading, you can go back and put a small amount of oil into that cylinder through the plug hole and then re-test it. That will dilineate between rings (cylinder pressure will go up) versus valves or head gasket (pressure will remain essentially the same).

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    Sounds like all good info to me. The key is all 8 cyl. should be pretty close in pressure. I had a slight puff of smoke at start up and think it might be valve seals... Thanks for the help guys!

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