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belt tension/noise + hypertech programmer question

This is a discussion on belt tension/noise + hypertech programmer question within the Corvette forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hi I have a 2000 C5 vette m6 with borlas that I just installed a ram air intake, power coupler, ...

  1. #1
    Lightning Speed! AntsSilverC5's Avatar
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    belt tension/noise + hypertech programmer question

    Hi I have a 2000 C5 vette m6 with borlas that I just installed a ram air intake, power coupler, hi flow mass air sensor, throttle body bypass tube and hypertech power programer on. My question is this... my car, on idle and when it revs makes a noise that sounds like the old squeeky fan belt in an old school car. so i bought some belt lubricant spray and now it makes no noise/sounds good on idle and up to about 1500-1700. but above that, it begins to squeek like crazy and the higher the RPM, the louder the squeek. my bro is telling me it might be the tensioner, but before i dive in and start working on the vette again I was wondering if any of you may have run across the same problem. Also, after i installed the hypertech... the vette gave an error message "reduced engine power" then stopped and acted normal and the programmer said "power programming complete" and everything acted normal after that. It made a noticeable difference and I tried to reprogram again to see if anything different would happen, but it did the same thing. I didnt pay it too much mind because it seems to work, but wondering if you guys know of anything I maybe should watch out with this thing. Any input would be appreciated. Once everything is all tuned and and ready to go I hoping to get some 12s on my street tires....I'll let you guys know how everything goes.

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    Ultimate nothing
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    Nice ride and welcome to the board.

    What's the mileage on the car? I'd recommend replacing the tensioner. It's not that expensive and that'll rule that out.

    If you got that message during the time the programmer was flashing the VCM, that's common to see some messages during programming. I have HP Tuners, and when I flash my 02 Avalanche it'll cycle through Low Fuel, Low Battery, Security, Service ABS, etc. As long as it isn't doing it while you are driving around you're fine.

    --George

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    Lightning Speed! AntsSilverC5's Avatar
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    thanks for the reply. the car just turned 40k about a week or so ago. Its sleeping in the garage for now but the next time i get a chance to work on it that tensioner is probably gonna get replaced. I usually use westcoastcorvettes.com to buy my car parts for it but do you guys know of another really good resource for parts for a c5? Next will be underdrive pulleys, B and M ripper shifter, baer drilled rotors, ZO6 intake manifold

    near future: WCC stage 4 head and cam package. Smog legal in Ca to boot!

    I know most shorty headers are legal in california. sucky state to be in for smog. are any long tubes legal out here?

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    Ultimate nothing
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    I would check the plugs just because you can. Replace them with some NGK TR55's for now.

    Any of the vendors on this board have some pretty good C5 gear. LG Motorsports is one that I've gone to for my F-body stuff. Been around a LONG time.

    I don't think you are going to find any California legal longtubes. Most long tube setups move the cat from the stock location, which I think is a no-no in California.

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    pulleys and also coolant system

    ughhh.... So I hit a roadblock on the pulleys today. i worked on the vette, tightened all the bolts and screws on the other mods instead and did some tuning... also installed a 178* degree thermostat and programmed the hypertech accordingly. I took a look again under the hood... the squeeling is present pretty much all the time now.. its quiet when the motor is cold on idle but then starts up (the squeeling) as the motor heats up a bit. Everything is ready to go on the vette with the current mods, but im starting to have doubts about the tensioner... it looks like im going to change it but...looking at the belts and pulleys when the car runs... everything looks good and parallel except the main pulley (motor) which seems to not spin perfectly parallel (as it should i think... but by eye doesnt quite seem to cut it) and whatever pulley it is that is right above it. I tried messing with it by hand and (ugh) it seemed to be good and tight as was the pulley above it. am I going to have to replace these pulleys? could there be a bigger problem here? ( i hope not... the car seems to run great otherwise) If i have to replace the pulleys... i might just say screw it and get an underdrive kit for them. any ideas?
    on another note... a bunch of coolant spilled when i took the old thermostat off and put the new one on. I live in CA (fairly moderate temps) and mixed 50/50 water and that special red GM coolant (i forget what its called) and simply filled the coolant resorvoir located above the passenger side front tire to a little bit above the very top... is this ok or is there a chance I might have gotten myself a cooling problem now? What else should i do to make sure cooling/coolant/radiator situation are good to go, if not? any input is greatly appreciated

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    Ultimate nothing
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    Okay, my tensioner issue was odd, hard to tell it was definitely coming from there. I replaced it and the sound disappeared. I also replaced the belt as that is just good sense. It has been awhile since I looked under the hood of a C5, but are you speaking of the water pump? It could be an optical illusion that is tricking your eye into believing it it not parellel. I don't think it is that big an issue as it would've thrown the belt off as serpentine belt system will go. Or it would chew it up.

    The coolant spill is no big surprise, but I believe you should refill the radiator directly and not the coolant recovery tank. You need to purge the air out of the system. I typically fill up the radiator, start the car with the cap off and let it run to full temp (about 10 minutes) and I watch the coolant level. It''ll usually drop when the thermostat opens, and I will refill it until it doesn't take any more. I shut off the car, wait five minutes, top it off again if needed and cap it. Check it again cold a few days later just in case, but the coolant recovery tank can usually work it out from there.

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    Junior Member Lethal Tendencies's Avatar
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    Heres a company that makes belt tensioner pullies. I need to replace mine as well.Does anyone know the cost for a GM replacement. Heres the link for a nice looking aftermarket one.

    http://www.katechengines.com/street_...etail.php?id=1

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    so I took the car to Roger Krauss racing in CV which a buddy of mine who does stuff to his SS all the time at refered me too. These guys are awesome and work on lots of vettes maros, birds etc whatever you need. I took it in expecting the worst but sure enough all it was was just a dried and cracked belt! (my car has a lil over 40K on it and i guess never been replaced). he swapped it for me and checked everything else and it ended up being 70 bucks. Now my car runs great and sounds great. Im taking it to infineon raceway on wednesday night hopefully.
    these are the mods I currently have:

    hurricane ram air induction
    high flow power coupler
    high flow mass air sensor
    178* thermo
    hypertech power programmer
    Tbody bypass
    borla stingers

    otherwise a stock 2000 M6 C5
    This'll be my first time draggin it and my goal is at least one 12.9 (or faster) run for the day. I think these mods should put me at around the 390+hp mark under the hood. What do you guys think? I let you all know how the run goes once its done.

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    Throw away the Hypertech.

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    Ok so took it infineon raceway
    ran it 4 times
    had some unexpected problems: missing gears. (im gonna get a ripper shifter sometime soon)
    first run, didnt realize how sticky the bleachboxes make ur tires with a burnout, too much clutch on takeoff, BAd r/t .749 or something but a 13.5 at 109
    I got a great launch one run with a good R/t but missed second, this run still netted me a 13.6
    the last run of the day i was burning out practically half the track and ran a 13.7
    ran a best for the day 13.20 with a crummy reaction time, at about 75*F (but a fairly good launch, a little too much clutch/not enough rpm) and a missed 4th gear shift. ( talked to a few of the guys with vettes there, one guy who was having problems said he leaves it in 3rd til the end, but some of the more knowledgeable guys go right into fourth to save the motor, no sense blowing it and killing ur ride home lol) I still think I can hit a 12.9 if i launch well, get a good r/t and dont miss any gears !, hopefully i get it next time i run it. ill let you guys know how it all goes.

  11. #11
    Ultimate nothing
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    The car has it in it, what was your MPH on those other runs?In fact, what do the entire runs look like; 60 ft, 1/8th ET/MPH, 1/4 ET/MPH? My SS ran 12.73 at 109.5, so you definitely have the MPH for a mid 12 second pass.

    And I would definitely agree with Justin00SS, reprogram the car back to stock and dump the Hypertech. Spend a couple bucks on a custom tune or just pick yourself up a copy of HP Tuners, it is worth EVERY penny. And there are plenty of people that'll help you out with it.

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    silver c5 timeslips

    first run: 76*F
    19 humidity, A barometer 29.68
    R/t: .358, 60': 2.490, 330': 6.173, 660': 9.052, mph: 85.77, 1000: 11.498
    1/4: 13.562 MPH: 109.37 (this is the run w/ too much clutch... almost stalled the car on takeoff)

    2nd run same as above: 73*F, 29, 29.78
    r/t: .785, 2.106, 5.698, 8.572, 85.73, 11.023, 13.201, 102.42 (this felt like probably the best launch of the day, but slowest r/t, and a missed 4th gear shift)

    3rd run: 68, 40, 29.84
    r/t: .093, 2.135, 5.918, 8.996, 81.45, 11.540, 13.659, 106.29 (this run was a decent r/t, decent launch, on the burning rubber side, but i missed 2nd gear on this run)

    4th and last run: 61, 53, 29.84
    r/t: .056, 2.527, 6.282, 9.190, 84.83, 11.660, 13.758, 107.51 (this run was the best r/t of the day, but burned out and had to let off the gas to recatch again)

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    Lightning Speed! AntsSilverC5's Avatar
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    oh and this is on the stock eagle f1 runflats with normal tirepressure (between 30-36, i dont remember exactly how much), but with nice violent burnouts to get them ready (275's)

  14. #14
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    Doing burnouts with the runflats/Z-rated tires isn't going to help you out that much). Z-rated tires are designed to dissipate heat; so they don't get all that sticky. The 60 ft times are kind of high, I wouldn't focus too much on your RT as the 60fts are over 2 seconds. Need to work on the launch (it's hard with a stock clutch).

    Your MPH on that first run it great, it drops drastically on that second run and starts to pick up over the next three runs. That car has a 12 in it. I'd put a set of drag radials on it and work on your launches. Also look into changing out the shifter with a short shifter and a different knob.

    The first run was good MPH, but other than that yeah it wasn't so hot.

    The second run was a 12 second pass, that shift to 4th screwed you. You pulled it, probably hit the gate, lifted a bit, and pulled it again. Doing get too excited about pulling the gear fast, focus on just getting it engaged.

    The third pass same thing as the prior run with you fighting with second, I think you are pulling the shifter toward you instead of straight back. Definitely look at a short shifter and change out the knob. I say change the knob because I noticed that with a contoured knob I would grab it the same way every time and wouldn't have issue pulling the next gear.

    The 4th run your MPH came up from more, but like you said you had to lift.

    Short shifter
    New shifter knob
    Drag radials
    Practice your launches

    and you will drive home with a 12 second timeslip. Congrats on some good runs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lethal Tendencies View Post
    Heres a company that makes belt tensioner pullies. I need to replace mine as well.Does anyone know the cost for a GM replacement. Heres the link for a nice looking aftermarket one.

    http://www.katechengines.com/street_...etail.php?id=1
    i replaced my tensioner about 3 or 4 months ago. the belt on my 01 formula kept comin off. too much power maybe? i dont know. anyway they are around 200 but well worth it. no more throwin belts.

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