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z28 coolant problem?

This is a discussion on z28 coolant problem? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; so i've been noticing my car will be up to running temp (200 or so) and then i'll shut it ...

  1. #1
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    z28 coolant problem?

    so i've been noticing my car will be up to running temp (200 or so) and then i'll shut it off, go do something

    i'll come back hours later and start it, and it sitll is really hot.. almost 100 or so

    should this be concerning?

    i checked the coolant dipstick and this is what it looked like: is this normal?


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    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    Definitely not normal. The chocolate milk look usually means you are getting oil mixed into the coolant somewhere.

    Have you ever had the system flushed? How many miles on your car?

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    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    65k miles

    never had it flushed

    how much does that run?

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    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    65k miles

    never had it flushed

    how much does that run?
    Well the flushes run anywhere from $75 - $130 depending on what equipment is being used. It is definitely recommended every 5 years or 100k since Dexcool starts to crystalize at that point. I would also consider getting a coolant system pressure test done to determine if you're leaking anywhere.

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    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    so do our LS1 camaros have to use specialized coolant, they cant use anything other than dexcool stuff?

    when i first bought the car i noticed this dipstick had crusty stuff on it but i never really thought about it again, figured it was just old coolant or something, idk.

    idk if this is a related problem but my car did need a quart of oil added inbetween its last oil change @ about 1500 out of the 3000 miles... and it doesnt appear to be burning any thru the exhaust

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    Hard to tell by the pic, but the reservoirs do tend to get kind of crappy. Do not use a chemical flush -- you just want to flush the system with clean water. For the best results, you'll want to drop the block drains as there is quite a bit of coolant retained in the block -- even with the thermostat removed. There is a 17mm allen head plug above and behind the alternator on the driver side. On the passenger side, directly above the starter, there is another smaller allen head plug. It's probably metric, but my 5/16" allen head fit best.

    Change the hoses and thermostat while you are at it. If you want to do the throttle body bypass, now is the time. Keep flushing until you get clean water back out of the motor. I filled and ran the car a couple of times with the thermostat removed to ensure complete circulation. Obviously, it is a lengthy process as the engine must cool before you re-fill it. Once you have the new thermostat in, make sure you don't air lock it on initial startup. Monitor the upper hose temp to ensure that it is opening as the engine gets to operating temp.

    I used Dexcool in our car and have no issues. You can debate the pros and cons of green and orange on here all day. Fact of the matter is that it was only the very early Dexcool that had issues -- years and years ago. Whatever you go with the cardinal rule is do not mix Dexcool and non-Dexcool fluids as it forms a semi-sludge and will frog up your system.

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    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Hard to tell by the pic, but the reservoirs do tend to get kind of crappy. Do not use a chemical flush -- you just want to flush the system with clean water. For the best results, you'll want to drop the block drains as there is quite a bit of coolant retained in the block -- even with the thermostat removed. There is a 17mm allen head plug above and behind the alternator on the driver side. On the passenger side, directly above the starter, there is another smaller allen head plug. It's probably metric, but my 5/16" allen head fit best.

    Change the hoses and thermostat while you are at it. If you want to do the throttle body bypass, now is the time. Keep flushing until you get clean water back out of the motor. I filled and ran the car a couple of times with the thermostat removed to ensure complete circulation. Obviously, it is a lengthy process as the engine must cool before you re-fill it. Once you have the new thermostat in, make sure you don't air lock it on initial startup. Monitor the upper hose temp to ensure that it is opening as the engine gets to operating temp.

    I used Dexcool in our car and have no issues. You can debate the pros and cons of green and orange on here all day. Fact of the matter is that it was only the very early Dexcool that had issues -- years and years ago. Whatever you go with the cardinal rule is do not mix Dexcool and non-Dexcool fluids as it forms a semi-sludge and will frog up your system.
    A step further, I wouldn't use anything BUT Dexcool in any GM vehicle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by konigandy6 View Post
    A step further, I wouldn't use anything BUT Dexcool in any GM vehicle.

    Agreed. Our car will never see anything else.

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    Member 00ls-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by konigandy6 View Post
    A step further, I wouldn't use anything BUT Dexcool in any GM vehicle.
    with aluminum heads... the green stuff corrodes and easts the aluminum awayand when mixed with dexcool turns to gel after awhile no good at all

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    Member 00ls-1's Avatar
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    eats not easts

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    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00ls-1 View Post
    with aluminum heads... the green stuff corrodes and easts the aluminum awayand when mixed with dexcool turns to gel after awhile no good at all
    I wouldn't go as far as saying it eats aluminum. There are many many vehicles that use the green coolant in their aluminum engines. The breakdown occurs when you have 2 different types of metals touching each other. That causes an electric current which passes thru the coolant and starts to oxidize and create the crystallization. That will eat away at gaskets. Hence the reason the coolant is recommended to be flushed every so often.

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    Member 00ls-1's Avatar
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    thats just what ive been told but the mixing ive seen most of it was like a gel and alot of it got flaky or a solid i guess you can say

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    i dont want to deal with this myself honestly... i have done every single fix/modification to this car (LM1 exhaust, stereo, speakers, rotors, pads, 2 new calipers up front because old ones were seized yes seized, rear koni shocks, strano springs, adjustable PH bar, intake lid, drivers side window motor, etc)
    with the exception of the front koni/strano springs...


    haha. for most of you, prolly dont think thats that big of a deal. i never worked on cars until this camaro.. so i kind of had to learn as i went

    so could i take this to a normal shop and they could handle this?

    does someone second konigandy6's statement i might have oil leaking into my coolant?

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    Member 00ls-1's Avatar
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    I'll agree that he might and pressure testing the system is a good start

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    You not he sorry

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    If you don't do like he said... Flush it real good and start over

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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    i dont want to deal with this myself honestly... i have done every single fix/modification to this car (LM1 exhaust, stereo, speakers, rotors, pads, 2 new calipers up front because old ones were seized yes seized, rear koni shocks, strano springs, adjustable PH bar, intake lid, drivers side window motor, etc)
    with the exception of the front koni/strano springs...


    haha. for most of you, prolly dont think thats that big of a deal. i never worked on cars until this camaro.. so i kind of had to learn as i went

    so could i take this to a normal shop and they could handle this?

    does someone second konigandy6's statement i might have oil leaking into my coolant?

    Sounds like you have the ability from your other projects. It is really not that bad a job -- unless you plan on replacing the entire heater hose assembly also. That is a rather tight fit and I strongly recommend a pair of remote hose clamp pliers. Other than that, everything else is easily accessible and there is no need to remove anything from your engine other than the thermostat housing, hoses and drain plugs.

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    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    so this is an immediate problem?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    so this is an immediate problem?

    If it has never been flushed before... I wouldn't go a whole lot longer before getting it done. How many miles on the car?

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    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    If it has never been flushed before... I wouldn't go a whole lot longer before getting it done. How many miles on the car?
    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    65k miles

    never had it flushed

    how much does that run?
    But yes, I would get it taken care of as soon as you can.

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