won't start, battery fully charged

**Vision** · 09-11-2006, 04:32 AM

Went to go to work this morning and my 99 Z28 (M6, 90k miles) wouldn't start. Got the multimeter out, 12.45 V. Threw a charger on the battery, just in case, still won't start.

It doesn't even crank. Turn the key, and one single click.

It also happened to me once last week too but that time I popped the hood to check the battery and it was fine. Got back in the car and it fired right up.

Any suggestions where to look next? It's parked outside. Oh, and it's POURING outside too.

**Sarge** · 09-11-2006, 04:45 AM

Blown fuse? Starter Relay? Cables all tight?

**Vision** · 09-11-2006, 06:39 AM

Any fuses I should look at first? I just tightened the battery cables and checked the voltage again- 12.54V.

Turn the key, 1 click. No cranking. Hmmm. Off to search some more.

At least I got a day off of work out of it.

**0rion** · 09-12-2006, 06:04 PM

Check your cables and make sure they're not corroded real bad. If the cables look good take a hammer or tire iron and knock the shit outta your starter. Sounds like a sticking solenoid to me.

WS6BIRD · 09-12-2006, 06:17 PM

could still be a battery. it may have 12v but not the cca to turn the motor over. get battery tested first then look for other problems

**SeVeReDiStOrTiOn** · 09-12-2006, 08:48 PM

Originally Posted by WS6BIRD

could still be a battery. it may have 12v but not the cca to turn the motor over. get battery tested first then look for other problems

**whitelightnin99** · 09-15-2006, 09:07 AM

Originally Posted by WS6BIRD

could still be a battery. it may have 12v but not the cca to turn the motor over. get battery tested first then look for other problems

agreed

***Ed Blown Vert*** · 09-15-2006, 09:09 AM

You battery cables are either loose or corroded.

**Chad97z** · 09-16-2006, 08:08 AM

I dont know whats wrong with with your car, but I know that you can't check your battery with an average digital multimeter!! No way. It will probably show 12 - 13 volts but you must check it while under a LOAD. Thats a huge difference.

**02z28ls1** · 09-16-2006, 06:23 PM

True -a load test is helpful, but a voltage check is a start (no pun intended). No load voltage at the battery terminals is the first check to make. Check for voltage drop under load by turning the key with the volt meter hooked up. If it drops under 10 volts then you may have a weak battery,or a starter problem. But since you had a charger hooked up I think you've eliminated the battery as the problem. Now check voltage at the starter terminals. As long as you have a click coming from the starter then it's probably getting voltage-if not-then make sure the shifter is in park or neutral (don't laugh, it happens to the best). If a stick then make sure the clutch is able to go to the floor (bunched up floor mat). If you have voltage at the starter then it's probably the starter, as suggested tap that biotch with a hammer. For anything much more than that get ready to tow it to a shop.

**0rion** · 09-16-2006, 07:16 PM

I'm waiting for this guy to post back up before I offer any more help.

I'd like to know if his lights dim when he turns the key. It sounded to me like he'd taken care of the battery side of it so I was just moving up the chain. Cables would be next then I would knock the crap outta the starter.

**Chad97z** · 09-17-2006, 12:43 AM

Originally Posted by 02z28ls1

Check for voltage drop under load

.. thanks for reiterating what I said.............

**02z28ls1** · 09-18-2006, 05:12 PM

Don't ever curse me -especially when you have no idea what you are talking about. You said you could not use a volt meter-I am showing a way to use a volt meter. Read the rest of the sentence dipshit. Fuckin genius? Not me-just a mechanic with over 25 years experience. Look --you use the voltmeter to watch voltage drop when engaging the starter. That's what he's got-and it can show what's going on-to an experienced mechanic, obviously not you. A load test on the battery is a whole different test-not important if voltage stays above 10.5 while cranking. If you don't understand what I'm talking about -it's you-not me.

**Chad97z** · 09-18-2006, 05:23 PM

haha OOPS sorry I meant to hit cancel.. didnt know I actually posted that.

**02z28ls1** · 09-18-2006, 06:41 PM

It's all good -----anyway it's supposed to be about helping the original poster-and he's nowhere to be seen................. Just wanted to clarify what testing i was talking about-and actually if you don't understand what I'm talking it about-I may not be explaining it good enough. If anybody needs more info I'll try to explain better.

NoeLee · 09-25-2006, 11:02 AM

You know im having the same problem.... I notice my secruity light was on though.(01 /ta ls1)

**0rion** · 09-25-2006, 09:56 PM

Originally Posted by NoeLee

You know im having the same problem.... I notice my secruity light was on though.(01 /ta ls1)

do a search for VATS. Tons of info on it. Sounds like it may be time to either get the ignition tumblers fixed or do the bypass for a couple dollars.

**Wikid NaSSty** · 09-26-2006, 06:36 AM

When my battery terminals were corroded......my starter wouldn't even click. I also dont think the starter would click if it were the VATS. Sounds like a starter problem to me.