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Wobbly Window Fix

This is a discussion on Wobbly Window Fix within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Here's a full write up of a window fix for when your window starts to wobble. I give credit is ...

  1. #1
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Wobbly Window Fix

    Here's a full write up of a window fix for when your window starts to wobble.

    I give credit is given to JAYTA98, Spaz, and MY00Z28 for putting me on the right track.


    The cause of this problem is this


    This piece came out, looks like it was pressed in, should have been welded.


    But we are jumping ahead.

    Tools:

    #2 and #3 cross tip screw drivers
    Vice grips or something to clamp with
    a welder and safety equipment


    Step 1: grab a beer or two or am I

    Remove these screws off the door panel


    Remove the these and disconnect the wire harness.



    Next gently bump the bottom of the panel to pop it off the door.

    Remove the plastic and sit in an area away from windows paint or anything that could stick to it.


    Step 2:

    Lower the window down enough to get some room to work.


    Remove this piece (yellow Arrow)

    Remove the red arrow to side the track guide out of the track, remove the 3 screws mark with white arrow to remove the track out of the door




    Place the broke piece if it is still serviceable back into the hole and secure it in place. I used vice grips.


    Step 3:

    Prior to welding remove the battery cables. Don't need to fry something.


    I put several tac welds to hold it in place like so:


    Yes my welds are ugly but I'm a beginner. Be careful not to heat the metal to much you can break the glass. DO THIS AT OWN RISK!!! I did it in the car but you may want to remove the whole assembly.

    Close up



    Step 4: reinstall the track guide, slide the wheel into the track and turn the track until you get it into its place. Tighten the screws.

    Next test the window, make sure it runs fully up and down and has no binding. If all is well close up the door panel in reverse directions above.



    Hope this helps. Only other alternative is go junk yard diving and hope to find one. And in the end hope you still don't have it happen in the end.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 05-09-2011 at 02:33 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    excellent work. Yup that was exactly what broke off on mine. I replaced everything with a new parts but I was going to try welding it. It looks like it should hold fine. this is alot easier than having to remove everything else. i will just suggest to add a step to remove the battery cables since you are welding. I'm not sure if you did.

    I vote for a sticky!
    Last edited by JayTA98; 05-09-2011 at 02:27 PM.

  3. #3
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    excellent work. Yup that was exactly what broke off on mine. I replaced everything with a new parts but I was going to try welding it. It looks like it should hold fine. this is alot easier than having to remove everything else. i will just suggest to add a step to remove the battery cables since you are welding. I'm not sure if you did.

    I vote for a sticky!
    I forgot......will add

  4. #4
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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  5. #5
    O U 8 1 2 Spaz's Avatar
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    exclellent!!! same dang thing in my window... hit the nail right on the head... sticked for ya!!!

  6. #6
    TerribleTed TerribleTed's Avatar
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    Funny,,,that same thing broke on mine too,,
    All I did was remove the metal bracket,,,then tapped the end of that one piece for a bolt to fit into it,,then back in place ,,,,total time 30 mins,,
    to bad they did rivits,,,

    to all others when your door is apart,,check all screws,,,nuts,,bolts and rivit area and remedy any that are bad,,,to save your self from more hassles.,,

  7. #7
    Junior Member mrpontiac80's Avatar
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    This is good info. The 98 I just bought had new power window motors installed a couple months back. Whoever did the job broke a few clips on the plastic bezels, but more importantly the drivers window is VERY loose. It will slide front to back and fall inward. After I tackle the turn signal switch, this is next on my to do list, so I will definatly be looking for this type of problem.

  8. #8
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpontiac80 View Post
    This is good info. The 98 I just bought had new power window motors installed a couple months back. Whoever did the job broke a few clips on the plastic bezels, but more importantly the drivers window is VERY loose. It will slide front to back and fall inward. After I tackle the turn signal switch, this is next on my to do list, so I will defiantly be looking for this type of problem.
    This is how mine had started.

  9. #9
    Member BRANDON's Avatar
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    I replaced mine with a new one but make sure if you go that route to expect to have to rivet the glass back on and it uses very big rivets so youll nedd to get a big rivet gun,i got lucky and a local body shop let me borrow theirs...

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    O U 8 1 2 Spaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRANDON View Post
    I replaced mine with a new one but make sure if you go that route to expect to have to rivet the glass back on and it uses very big rivets so youll nedd to get a big rivet gun,i got lucky and a local body shop let me borrow theirs...
    i remember when i did mine that i thought for a second that i broke the glass when the rivet popped through...

  11. #11
    Junior Member mrpontiac80's Avatar
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    So I finally got around to fixing this on my car. Sure enough, it was the same issue. I took out the bracket and welded the roller back onto the metal track assembly. The window works great now but I noticed as I was putting it back together, that the stop at the top of the track as seen in the pics of step 2 with the red arrow, is missing from my car. Previous owner handiwork I guess.

    My question, is, what is the stop composed of? It is simply a bolt with a nut on the backside? Or do I need to locate a missing part?

  12. #12
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    It is a metal square block that had a hole for the nut & bolt to go threw. It was about 1" squared. I believe it is to keep the window from rolling to high out of the track. Because you are able to make small adjustments.

  13. #13
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpontiac80 View Post
    So I finally got around to fixing this on my car. Sure enough, it was the same issue. I took out the bracket and welded the roller back onto the metal track assembly. The window works great now but I noticed as I was putting it back together, that the stop at the top of the track as seen in the pics of step 2 with the red arrow, is missing from my car. Previous owner handiwork I guess.

    My question, is, what is the stop composed of? It is simply a bolt with a nut on the backside? Or do I need to locate a missing part?
    It is a small plastic block with a molded nut inside. You slide it in the track and put the nut thru the hole and adjust the height. I found mine at a junk yard.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 12-06-2011 at 07:50 PM.

  14. #14
    Junior Member mrpontiac80's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I assumed it to be something like that, but wanted confirmation. Add it to the list of things to fix!

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    I have the same problem, not trying to bring back an ancient thread.... but would a soldering gun and some soldier be sufficient enough to hold this in place? Don't really have access to a welder and cannot get to one during the day due to work

  16. #16
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    No problems bringing this up and asking a question. It's been sticky in order to help those that have this issue.


    To answer your question, no it will not.

    I think you meant "Solder" and not "Soldier".


    Solder is for electronics. It acts in the same principal for electronics like welding does for metal fabrication by bonding 2 components together.

    However solder is a very soft metal that liquifies at a relatively low temp and then cools down quickly. It's strong enough to hold wire's and circuits together but never will it hold any metal together.



    This is a quick fix, It lasted me a yr before I had to go ahead and replace the window regulator because the front post broke on me too and there was no way to fix it. The back post (what you see in the pic) was still solid.


    I have no idea why GM had these pressed rivet on instead of using a lock nut.

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    Four Seat Vette 10spokess's Avatar
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    Awesome I have something to add to my list while the car is down

  18. #18
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    Updates for anyone interested.... So I do not have access to a welder so I decided to try a whole bunch of different things. Things on the FAIL LIST include: Epoxy plastic and Epoxy metal, JB Weld quick and JB Weld 24hr cure, Solder failed as well..... My last option was what one of the previous owners tried which was the drill and tap method. At this point all the pressure put on that point had broken the bond of everything I had tried. I did some measuring with those thread size and pitch tools... I decided to use 1/4 20 tap with a #7 drill bit (this combo is very common, get at your local Menards, Lowes, Home Depot for $5 plus the tap handle which was another $5 plus a 1/4 20 bolt that was $0.79). Total price for the ACTUAL fix was $12. If you cannot find the correct length of bolt use some washers to space it out. I was very cautious while drilling and did not want to drill through the side or something like that. I was able to get about 7-8 coils into the "roller bolt" before I stopped. I also suggest once final tightening of the bolt that you use some type of tread locker (preferably the blue locker that will allow you to remove the bolt, probably don't want to use the permanent (dark red) locker just incase you need to take it out sometime down the road). I put my final attempt to the test, rolled the window up and down about 50 times and it held pretty darn good (and this was without tread locker, I lost it somewhere in the process ) So there it is folks, for those of you that do not have access to a welder.

    Not taking credit for this fix, nor am I thread-jacking, just giving some more in depth info for those that may need it.

    I'll keep updated after awhile to let every1 know how this is holding up..
    Last edited by augie1209; 08-13-2012 at 07:54 PM.

  19. #19
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I guess it is too late for you to get some pics to post up.


    That would be a much better option then welding. If you are not careful you can melt the plastic.

  20. #20
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I guess it is too late for you to get some pics to post up.


    That would be a much better option then welding. If you are not careful you can melt the plastic.
    you can pop out the plastic wheel. I did it to change another one that was deformed it pretty easy.

    It does sound like another option. Keep us posted on how durable it is.

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