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Winter Storage

This is a discussion on Winter Storage within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; yep thats what i am going to do, and it wouldn't hurt to move the car a couple times either ...

  1. #21
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Pewter
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    yep thats what i am going to do, and it wouldn't hurt to move the car a couple times either just to avoid the flat spots

  2. #22
    Member BrntWS6's Avatar
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    2002 WS6 M6 - 461hp 406tq

    I've been storing my WS6 from November - April since 2001 on the stock rubber and don't have any flat spots. I don't take any weight off the tires either. All I do is give it a good bath, check tire pressure, condition the leather, fill the tank all the way up, and put the battery in my basement. If I store the battery it will start on the first try without putting it on the charger.

    Just put a 17,000 BTU heater in my garage this year, my car is really spoiled now!

  3. #23
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    "Arrest Me Red"
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    fill the tank and run staild in it battrey tender and the cover is all you need no need to start it. its just a wast of time.

  4. #24
    Think Spring..... 4get gto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bouvers View Post
    thats exactly the point I was making... the only thing is there have been the ol'wives tales that say that stabilizer does more harm then good...
    Don't get it ..........

    What point were you trying to make ?????????????????
    do you like a fuel additive or don't you ?

  5. #25
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    I have around 3000 on my oil. Should I change it before storage? And will I have to change it when I get it out of storage?

  6. #26
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    for a few moths you dont need to but if you have 3000 on it any way i would just cange it after storage

  7. #27
    Member Frozen WS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrntWS6 View Post
    I've been storing my WS6 from November - April since 2001 on the stock rubber and don't have any flat spots. I don't take any weight off the tires either. All I do is give it a good bath, check tire pressure, condition the leather, fill the tank all the way up, and put the battery in my basement. If I store the battery it will start on the first try without putting it on the charger.

    Just put a 17,000 BTU heater in my garage this year, my car is really spoiled now!
    Looks like you store your car as long almost as I have to. Mine has to get put away in late September or early October. I've pretty much done the same thing but removed the batteries since I have a heated garage.

    Also, Up here there are no junk f-body rims to be had for junk "storage" tires so I will always leave it on the the same tires I always have on it. But I check my tires before I drive it each time anyway, so I don't worry too much about it.

  8. #28
    Junior Member 99Firehawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    I have around 3000 on my oil. Should I change it before storage? And will I have to change it when I get it out of storage?

    You should always change your oil before you put it away. Reason is because fresh oil doesnt break down as fast like old oil does. What will happen with old oil (3000mi) while sitting over the winter without being run is that water will separate from it causing more rust internally. Thats why all the boats get an oil change as a part of winterizing. Spring you will be ready to go. Boats also get an engine fogging too to help coat the internals to prevent rust as well.

  9. #29
    Junior Member 99Firehawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    Another very good idea to prevent the engine from building up condensation/corrosion is to fog it before you store it. This is common practice on Marine engines which sit for the better part of the year.

    All you need is a can of Seafoam. With the car running, pour the seafoam into the engine (best source is the brake booster line, just stick the hose in the can of Seafoam) and wait until the engine stalls. You could start it back up again and stall it out once more for good measure if you want, thats all there it to fogging.

    Then you can add the rest of the can of Seafoam to the oil, which will prevent sludge from building up in the engine from condensation/moisture while it sits.

    SeaFoam? I hav'nt herd of using it for that purpose. I thought it was more of a cleanner, does it really have the properties to coat and protect?

  10. #30
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    My car will be sitting outside over winter and here in northern ohio we get a good amount of snow. I got an SLP cover and i was wondering if it would be wise to put a tarp on top of the cover or should i just leave the cover by itself so it can "breathe"? I was also curious if I could put some soft sheets under the cover to prevent any scratches or will this also prevent it from breathing?

  11. #31
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99Firehawk View Post
    SeaFoam? I hav'nt herd of using it for that purpose. I thought it was more of a cleanner, does it really have the properties to coat and protect?
    Yep. In fact, I believe right on the can it says that it works great as a fogging oil for engines.

  12. #32
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    My car will be sitting outside over winter and here in northern ohio we get a good amount of snow. I got an SLP cover and i was wondering if it would be wise to put a tarp on top of the cover or should i just leave the cover by itself so it can "breathe"? I was also curious if I could put some soft sheets under the cover to prevent any scratches or will this also prevent it from breathing?
    any time a car has a cover on it outside you run a risk of the paint fading. but if you have to i would put the cover on it and a tarp with some beach balls in the middle so air can still flow that sould work out for you. i do that with my camper. if you have the cash i would say call cal car cover and thay can get you the best outside cover there is but thay run in price from 160 to 500

  13. #33
    Junior Member 99Firehawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    Yep. In fact, I believe right on the can it says that it works great as a fogging oil for engines.
    Sounds excellent.
    Question, if you use the brake booster line to suck the seafoam in, does it go through the front cylinders too? Or should the PCV at throttle body be used as well to suck it in?

  14. #34
    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    2001 Z28 (Sara)

    You should drain the engine oil, and fill it with 85W gear oil, start it and let it run only for seconds, turn it off, this will keep a film on the upper engine parts. When you take it out of storage, drain the 85W oil, new regular oil, change the filter.

    SteveC

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