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Thread: Winter Storage
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10-09-2008, 02:58 PM #1
Winter Storage
I'm putting my 2000SS away until April 1, 09. It will be in a semi-heated garage. I'll plug in a Battery Tender and put on the car cover. I don't intend to put it on jackstands - sticky tires are not on the car anyway. How much gas should be in the tank? Tire Pressures? Recent Mobil 1 oil change. Any other suggestions? Do's? Dont's? Appreciate any help! Thanks !!
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10-09-2008, 03:16 PM #2
I would (and do) fill the tank and add stabil.
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10-10-2008, 04:48 PM #3
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10-10-2008, 06:03 PM #4
I would suggest moving to Florida so you can drive it all year round!!
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10-10-2008, 06:18 PM #5
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09 EclipseGT 75 Chevy 4x4- 2001 Trans-Am 13 F-XT
Just start it once a month and let it get to full operating temp. Keeps things working.
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10-11-2008, 06:22 AM #6
Thanks for the responses - ALL !! I Googled "Stabil" & came up with some good tips on their web site - follow this link:
http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/Sto...scle%20Car.pdf
Thanks again for your replies !!!!!!
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10-13-2008, 04:37 PM #7
Up here starting it once a month does nothing. It's too cold to get it up to operating temps. Plus I've found that up here the warm up and cool down will create condensation in the cylinders. Which is what did in my 454 boat engine. Putting rust rings in each hole were each piston stopped at.
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10-14-2008, 04:11 PM #8
i just removed my battery, cuz after a while it got so cold the car wouldn't turn over at all, but i guess you have that battery tender which will probably work great.
i will be removing my rims and putting on some old ones this time. i hear its good to leave a load on the suspension even though some people recommend jacking the car...idk what to do so i leave it as is.Last edited by allbaugh_04; 10-14-2008 at 04:14 PM.
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10-14-2008, 04:50 PM #9
Another very good idea to prevent the engine from building up condensation/corrosion is to fog it before you store it. This is common practice on Marine engines which sit for the better part of the year.
All you need is a can of Seafoam. With the car running, pour the seafoam into the engine (best source is the brake booster line, just stick the hose in the can of Seafoam) and wait until the engine stalls. You could start it back up again and stall it out once more for good measure if you want, thats all there it to fogging.
Then you can add the rest of the can of Seafoam to the oil, which will prevent sludge from building up in the engine from condensation/moisture while it sits.
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10-14-2008, 08:18 PM #10
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10-14-2008, 08:38 PM #11
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Blue 1997 Trans Am(Sold)- Pewter 2001 Trans Am Vert
what for? its a plastic tank... keep it as empty as possible in the spring start it up run through the rest go through one full tank and then change your fuel filter... if you care about your car change your fuel filter at the beginning of every season... its cheap and easy... no fuel no need for stabilizer which ALWAYS gets mixed reviews.
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10-14-2008, 08:40 PM #12
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10-14-2008, 08:42 PM #13
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Blue 1997 Trans Am(Sold)- Pewter 2001 Trans Am Vert
you're right that does more harm to the suspension then what temporary differences are created to your tires... come one people really... its rubber it will take the shape of something ofcourse but it will change back... guarantee after the first time you take your car up to 60mph no more flat spots... just leave them on...
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10-15-2008, 12:59 PM #14
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09 EclipseGT 75 Chevy 4x4- 2001 Trans-Am 13 F-XT
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10-15-2008, 03:24 PM #15
Once you flatspot the tires the flat spots are there to stay, it actually deforms the tires permanently. My friend has an '05 STI that he rarely drives, most of the time it sits in the garage. With the low profile high performance tires, they developed flat spots.
You really notice them at high speeds, we had his car up to 139MPH, and it felt and sounded like we were driving over rumble strips.
I'd reccommend taking a slight load off of the suspension if possible, while still leaving the wheels/tires touching the ground. That way the weight is off the tires, but the suspension won't get stretched out from being extended for a long period of time. Best bet would be jackstands under the rear axle and under the front control arms to relieve some of the weight.
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10-15-2008, 03:46 PM #16
A stabilier is more for keeping the gas fresh and becoming like varnish over long periods of time. Does'nt matter if tanks are made of plastic or steel.
The reason behind keeping steel tanks filled for long term storage is to keep condensation from forming in the tank and rusting the tank from the inside out. Plastic tanks still condense but naturally won't rust....
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10-15-2008, 04:30 PM #17
[QUOTE=Wesman;1675760]Once you flatspot the tires the flat spots are there to stay, it actually deforms the tires permanently. My friend has an '05 STI that he rarely drives, most of the time it sits in the garage. With the low profile high performance tires, they developed flat spots. QUOTE]
I kinda agree here. I watched a supra on a wheel dyno blow the tire apart on a pull. Luckly no one or anything was hurt or damaged. When we looked at the tire you could see where the cords were discolored where it had been sitting. Yes, I know that the dyno will probably load the tire more then just street driving but I still have that experiance in the front of my mind. That its possible. Even though I don't do anything special like parking on carpet or lifting my car since I'll be getting new tires this next spring because there just wore out. It's in my heated garage.
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10-15-2008, 06:58 PM #18
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10-15-2008, 07:00 PM #19
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10-15-2008, 07:14 PM #20
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09 EclipseGT 75 Chevy 4x4- 2001 Trans-Am 13 F-XT
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