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Thread: Window motor
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01-28-2017, 08:26 AM #1
Window motor
Is this to-good-to-be-true?
I was PM'd by a gentleman on a different car site that lives in the same state as I do, and this is what he has to say........
The window motors I'm using in the 4th gens are stock Corvette motors. I do have to modify them slightly to work with the plate/regulator.
My hope is to sell these local, because I'm already having issues with coaching someone through replacement.
I'm not some huge company looking to push a new product. I'm a former GM dealership mechanic that came up with an idea
I can't figure out how to add pictures on here. I'll figure it out tomorrow when I'm at my home computer.
(I did see some pictures of window motors he sent me on facebook but I can't find them now).
Then a day later he wrote me...............
Are you familiar with replacing window motors? Insulation is easy, with the only issue being you must pull out some of the motor wiring pigtail out of the harness to make it longer. The corvette motors I use, also use the same wiring connector at the motor. It's basically "plug and play"
If you would like me to make some kits up, let me know. Or if you'd like to wait till August for the Nationals, that's fine too.
I use Cardone new motors. I have verified they are the same as ACdelco, GM, ACI. Basically ACI makes all new motors, but they are put into different boxes.. Cardone is the least expensive I've found. I do slight motor modification to property align this set up.
I do do need to know what year car these will go into. The 3rd and 4th gen uses different number of teeth on the gear
So you'd be buying the complete kit from me(motor, adapter plate and hardware)
$110 for 2 kits and USPS shipping. I'm not making much money here, but that's not why I'm doing this.
The question I have is what you guys think about this?Last edited by pajeff02; 01-28-2017 at 09:31 AM. Reason: Corrected thread title
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01-28-2017, 09:30 AM #2
I looked briefly at Corvette and F-body power window motors...look like apples and oranges, but I suppose it is possible. Replacement window motors, Cardone or whatever, are not all that expensive.
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01-29-2017, 09:40 AM #3
I always thought Autotrix was the answer for window motors in our cars.
Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.
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01-29-2017, 03:55 PM #4
I found this on LS1tech
Unless you rewire the passenger window with the autotrix fix both motors have a tendency to burn up fast if your using them at the same time.
This is completely false and untrue. Autotrix doesn't even make this claim. (... because it is not true.) There is a bunch of internet vodoo out there regarding these motors and the Autotrix kits have risen in the folklore to be something that they aren't.
The ONLY thing Autotrix kits do is reduce the normal voltage drop that the motors see. This makes a bad motor look better than it really is.
There is nothing wrong with the circuitry in the cars. If there was, there would have been problems with cars coming from the factory. (that didn't happen)
IMO - Now that the new motor design is widely available, with a lifetime warranty, relay kits are a waste of money.
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01-29-2017, 04:02 PM #5
So, are we really sticking Corvette window motors in F-body doors these days?
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01-29-2017, 05:25 PM #6
I just leave my windows down all year round.
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01-29-2017, 05:27 PM #7
I rarely use mine.
Last edited by 024mula; 01-29-2017 at 05:30 PM.
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01-29-2017, 05:29 PM #8
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03-23-2017, 10:09 AM #9
Are you referring to this kit?
93-02 Firebird/Camaro Auto Trix Passenger Window Fix Kit | Accents & Misc | WS6store.com
does the door panel have to come off to install?
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03-23-2017, 10:32 AM #10
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Yes on both.
You'll also need to run the ground (black) and 12v (red) wires thru a grommet in the firewall on the passenger side. This will require you to pull the ecm out to gain access. Not too hard to do just a PITA. You'll also need to print off the wire diagram with a color printer. Don't try looking at it on a phone. You'll not be able to see the colors well. It takes about an hour to do. Mostly because getting the damn ecm out and installing it again. It's a tight fit, plus the damn plastic rivets just love to rake your hands and drawl blood from the cowl.
I just did my friends car last weekend. Took me about 30 mins because it's the 5th car I've done them too. I need to start charging my "friends" for that shit.....
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03-23-2017, 10:51 AM #11
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03-23-2017, 10:56 AM #12
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
lol....sure.
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03-23-2017, 01:47 PM #13
Two other suggestions, with the autotrix kit you get a wire harness with some fairly long leads for the relay. Cut the damn leads in half or less before doing your splices. The reason is you will have to put all that crap back in the arm rest under the switch and that extra wiring makes it harder than it needs to be. The other suggestion is that as Scott notes, the colors of the wires can be tricky. Be very sure which color you want to splice with which color. As I recall I ran into an issue with getting the right brown wire or the wrong brown wire. You'll know what I mean when you start the project.
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03-23-2017, 09:52 PM #14
So what about Dales assertion? Is it unnecessary to use the Autotrix or what? Has anyone actually replaced a P/S motor only to have it fail sooner than when using the autotrix Im curious to know what y`all think? I have done my D/S now my P/S is out too![COLOR="#FF0000" ]Also to add to this...My car was only a few months "New"( In 2002) when I had to take it back under warranty to the dealership for replacement....Then years later I had to do it again (D/S only)...Only up until 2016 The passenger side worked fine all these years w/o autotrix kit?[/COLOR]
Last edited by SuperSSguy; 03-23-2017 at 09:56 PM.
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03-24-2017, 12:28 AM #15
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
Window motor
I'll say in my case was as follows.
Prior to the fix I went thru 3 motors in yr. since the fix 0 have been replaced going on 8 yrs now.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
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03-24-2017, 03:53 PM #16
That`s what gets me .....To me that is testimony enough to justify using the auto-trix by pass ( 8 years ,O fixes) I can live with that....But with me Ive had the same pass/side motor working fine until 2016...Thats 15 years? And the Driver-side is the third motor.... I guess its the luck of the draw or the exception to the rule maybe....?I DO KNOW that I DON'T wanna keep replacing motors every few years ,While I did my last D/S one ..and isn't hard ,But its not FUN either......GM should have done a recall ..... Im really considering the autotrix because of that.
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03-25-2017, 10:37 AM #17
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A, 00 FBVert, 78T/A
What happens is the voltage at the drivers side is usually about 10volts, but drops to 8-9 at the passenger side once it gets there. When you use both motors at same time, particularly raising them, it draws much more current. The sub-par current is what kills the electronics over time.
What the fix does is bypasses or rewires the 12v source to directly to the relays. This gives both motors 10-12volts all the time.
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03-29-2017, 04:29 PM #18
[QUOTE=SMWS6TA;1145555410]What happens is the voltage at the drivers side is usually about 10volts, but drops to 8-9 at the passenger side once it gets there. When you use both motors at same time, particularly raising them, it draws much more current. The sub-par current is what kills the electronics over time.
Hhhmmm Maybe that's why Ive had a bit of luck all this time...I don't think I ever raised both at the same time..... But your explanation makes sense and because I don't want to keep replacing motors I will do the Autotrix......Besides that do you think it increases rollup/down time like in making the motor work faster? These are often slow motors compared to other vehicles we own... Thanks for your info!!
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