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Will my rear end snap ???

This is a discussion on Will my rear end snap ??? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Never question my knowledge Dan aka Steve I'm not sure in the 1/8th mile though as I've never looked too ...

  1. #21
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Never question my knowledge Dan aka Steve

    I'm not sure in the 1/8th mile though as I've never looked too close at 1/8 mile times as I've always ran just the 1/4.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Should do better than that with stickies.

    My 02 SS vert with just headers, off road Y, a tune, and a 3400 stall, running it on stock rubber, I went a 12.76 at 107 mph. I only cut a 1.90 60 foot time. That was with the factory 3.23's and the stock catback.
    With a little practice, the right air pressure, and some weight in the trunk, you can hook fairly well on stock street tires, I do

    With a sticky tire on the car, where I could really wail on it, I'm confident the car would go 1.70 60 foot times and probably drop into the 12.40 to 12.50 zone. I don't think you are giving your car enough credit
    So a full tank of gas and a dead body in the trunk loll When you say weight in the trunk How much weight and what do you putr in so it doesn't bounce around?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28Thunder View Post
    I was doing 12.5's with 2.73's...
    Your 60 foot must of been crazy low Do you remember what it was? Whnat was your mph?

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    Senior Member Z28Thunder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Durango View Post
    Your 60 foot must of been crazy low Do you remember what it was? Whnat was your mph?
    12.533@108.01 1.75 60ft

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    you should be fine on the rear end breaking. im cammed with a 3500 stall and 3.73s and i have lifted on Nittos. i have tq arm, LCAs, PHB, and a rear end girdle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    35th is correct. You cut one tenth off your 60 and it will equate roughly to dropping two tenths at the end of the 1320. This has been a general rule of thumb since drag racing began.

    You are confusing the math with another car, that you can't possibly compare times with. Your theory might work if both cars weighed the same, and they turned about the same MPH. Otherwise,,,,,,no.
    Sticking to one vehicle at a time, and looking at your GTO. Lets say it ran a 13.20 at a decent MPH of about 107, but the 60 foot sucked at 2.1.
    Drop that 60 down to a 2.0, and keeping the rest of the run identical assuming you are a good enough driver to be that consistent, and the DA hasn't changed at all since your first run,,,,then the car should dip into the 13.0's easily.
    GTO was 3800 lbs vs Z28 at 3550, 3.46 vs 3.73 gears, M6 vs A4, same tire size, Both LS1....lol

    The GTO may not be as good at the strip but it was tougher to launch and down the road it was close. Who knows!
    Last edited by TLS_Addict; 07-12-2011 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Im an idiot....

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Durango View Post
    So a full tank of gas and a dead body in the trunk loll When you say weight in the trunk How much weight and what do you putr in so it doesn't bounce around?
    Well the serious street tire guys (in FAST or in PURE STOCK) will build a weight bias system where they can add or subtract weight using several methods. Usually a series of hollow bars they can fill with water or sand.
    When I did it running pure stock, it had to look stock, so we were sneaky about it by filling the spare tire with water. Depending on track conditions we would add more or take some out.

    On our 4th gens, since it wasn't class racing (just test and tune) I could do it anyway I wanted. I simply drove into the track with a good size cooler in the trunk packed with ice and drinks, left the spare and jack in place. We also stopped at the store on the way, so a couple of bags of "stuff" were also left in the trunk along with my laptop for any tuning I might need to do.

    It all fits down in the well, so nothing moves around. I'm guessing it probably added another 80-100 lbs. I basically just winged it from previous experience.

    If you are serious about hooking on street tires there is a boat load of things you can do. Front and rear suspension tricks, extra weight in the trunk, tire pressures, spraying VHT on the tires before you make a pass, and lots of practice.
    I was cutting 1.8x 60 foot times in my 70 bird on tiny original reproduction F/70-14 bias ply goodyear tires with only a 6 inch contact patch. Doing it in a 4th gen with what are huge factory tires in comparison is a piece of cake.

    And I don't mean to sound like I was doing anything special, I've been out of it for years. Now these same guys are cutting 1.5-1.6 60 foot times on those little bias plys, and even yanking the wheels. They've come a long way with their tricks and knowledge.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 07-02-2011 at 01:29 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28Thunder View Post
    12.533@108.01 1.75 60ft
    What did you have done to your car to run that well That is a great pass and an amazing 60 foot

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    Quote Originally Posted by stephen02ws6 View Post
    you should be fine on the rear end breaking. im cammed with a 3500 stall and 3.73s and i have lifted on Nittos. i have tq arm, LCAs, PHB, and a rear end girdle.
    It's my second TA my buddy has a z28 and they all have the girdle loll I hace 35 000 miles on mine and it was never beat on before I bought it :-)It came wqith the girdle new

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    I raced with my stock 10 bolt for years with a stall. Preloading was the key. Unlike dropping the clutch and bam.

    So it may last. Mine broke leaving at a light on the street. It spun, grabbed and snapped.

    So you never know.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Well the serious street tire guys (in FAST or in PURE STOCK) will build a weight bias system where they can add or subtract weight using several methods. Usually a series of hollow bars they can fill with water or sand.
    When I did it running pure stock, it had to look stock, so we were sneaky about it by filling the spare tire with water. Depending on track conditions we would add more or take some out.

    On our 4th gens, since it wasn't class racing (just test and tune) I could do it anyway I wanted. I simply drove into the track with a good size cooler in the trunk packed with ice and drinks, left the spare and jack in place. We also stopped at the store on the way, so a couple of bags of "stuff" were also left in the trunk along with my laptop for any tuning I might need to do.

    It all fits down in the well, so nothing moves around. I'm guessing it probably added another 80-100 lbs. I basically just winged it from previous experience.

    If you are serious about hooking on street tires there is a boat load of things you can do. Front and rear suspension tricks, extra weight in the trunk, tire pressures, spraying VHT on the tires before you make a pass, and lots of practice.
    I was cutting 1.8x 60 foot times in my 70 bird on tiny original reproduction F/70-14 bias ply goodyear tires with only a 6 inch contact patch. Doing it in a 4th gen with what are huge factory tires in comparison is a piece of cake.

    And I don't mean to sound like I was doing anything special, I've been out of it for years. Now these same guys are cutting 1.5-1.6 60 foot times on those little bias plys, and even yanking the wheels. They've come a long way with their tricks and knowledge.
    I'm definatly a rookie when it comes to the track.... I've been there 3 times and maybe made 25 passes total. My reaction time is always good but my 60 foot is terrible my best was a 2.1 lololl and that';s when I ran a 13.29 at 104mph
    I will try the street tires for the challenge Of trying to hook and the DR as well just to get the feeling of setting you back in your seat but that's as far as I will go...This year ... I just bought the DR radials because it was an amazing deal I mean Mickey Thomson new with rims for $200 C4 rims in good shape and it still has the paper on the DR stuck to it never used I'm sure I can get my money back If I don't use them

    The main reason for the gears well I had a 99 TA with 3:23 gears and I liked the bottom end take off with those gears so with 3:42's and the Yank SS3200 It should be a lot of fun tramping on it coming of an off ramp at 30mph :-) That's what I like the most from 20 mph or so to 80mph on the hgwy :-))))) Our speed limits being 70mph is great less chances of getting pulled over !
    Last edited by Durango; 07-02-2011 at 06:29 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Durango View Post
    What did you have done to your car to run that well That is a great pass and an amazing 60 foot
    Pace Setter Headers, 3500 TCI and ET Streets.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Never question my knowledge Dan aka Steve

    I'm not sure in the 1/8th mile though as I've never looked too close at 1/8 mile times as I've always ran just the 1/4.
    Was mistaken for someone else tonight. Aparently I look like a Mitch.

    In college there was a kid named Kelley from Elmira that looked like me. My question is how in the hell can there be 3 guys THIS good looking? Strange I say.

    And, and you run the 1/8th every time you run the 1/4. lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28Thunder View Post
    Pace Setter Headers, 3500 TCI and ET Streets.
    Ok so little more than stock great run the TCI worked well for you I see any gas smell in the car with the headers ??? I'm thinking headers y pipe and full exhaust next year and I think that will be the extent of my mods for a while I love my car right now when it comes to looks I did everything I wanted but the performance part is not done I'm thinking now I should of done the other way around :-) Performance 1st and looks 2nd Oh well live and learn....

    Mine has LCA,Relocation bracket, pahhard bar, sfc Yank SS3200, B&M cooler,SLP lid,K&N filter, 295/35/18 back and 265/40/17 front with 07 Z06 rims, crossed drilled slotted rotors, 3:42 gears being installed tomorrow and an axle back Flowmaster that I had already so I installed it....Love -the tips on the car it looks good :-) Tru Fiber WS9 hood Everything was done in the last few months so my budget is now completely dead I went about 2 grand 2 far but isn't it always the way Oh and a Frost tune that will soon be a Dyno tune with the new gears being installed Wow writting it down makes me feel a little sad that I spent all that money on my car .......
    Last edited by Durango; 07-03-2011 at 09:20 AM.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Durango View Post
    Ok so little more than stock great run the TCI worked well for you I see any gas smell in the car with the headers ??? I'm thinking headers y pipe and full exhaust next year and I think that will be the extent of my mods for a while I love my car right now when it comes to looks I did everything I wanted but the performance part is not done I'm thinking now I should of done the other way around :-) Performance 1st and looks 2nd Oh well live and learn....

    Mine has LCA,Relocation bracket, pahhard bar, sfc Yank SS3200, B&M cooler,SLP lid,K&N filter, 295/35/18 back and 265/40/17 front with 07 Z06 rims, crossed drilled slotted rotors, 3:42 gears being installed tomorrow and an axle back Flowmaster that I had already so I installed it....Love -the tips on the car it looks good :-) Tru Fiber WS9 hood Everything was done in the last few months so my budget is now completely dead I went about 2 grand 2 far but isn't it always the way Oh and a Frost tune that will soon be a Dyno tune with the new gears being installed Wow writting it down makes me feel a little sad that I spent all that money on my car .......
    Just remember: Speed is just a question of money. How fast can you go?

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    With teh Yank and the 3:42 geras makes a nice combination I got a mail order tune but it's not perfect yet and the summer is short nso mailing and waiting is 2 much so I will get it dyno tuned next week!!!! The track is next I can't wait!!!
    Life is too short not to maximise it.

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    I dpn't like the new set up here what the heck happened they changed the format or is it just me

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    Quote Originally Posted by stephen02ws6 View Post
    you should be fine on the rear end breaking. im cammed with a 3500 stall and 3.73s and i have lifted on Nittos. i have tq arm, LCAs, PHB, and a rear end girdle.
    how much do girdles actually help rear end life span? just curious

  19. #39
    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Very cool the 3:42 geras woke up the car even more than the Converter I'n my opinion the geras are the best upgrade on our cars and the converter well It's a shit load of money with the tune and install to do it all over again I would of did the headers exhaust and gears My money would of been better spent there

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    Quote Originally Posted by greasepunk View Post
    how much do girdles actually help rear end life span? just curious
    im not sure on that. i dont think it extends the life span but more or less helps keep it together off the line. like it was stated before, preloading is the key. that doesnt give it that shock that would break it.

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