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Wheel sensor and ball joint question....

This is a discussion on Wheel sensor and ball joint question.... within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; So I was trying to remove my spindle when inevitably and yes I know pajeff warned me about this lol...I ...

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Wheel sensor and ball joint question....

    So I was trying to remove my spindle when inevitably and yes I know pajeff warned me about this lol...I ended up smacking my wheel sensor and so the clip portion of it broke. How hard is it to replace the wheel sensor? Also my lower ball joint the top thread is bad so I can't seem to get the castle nut back on it. What is the best way to remove it or is there away I could possibly still use it and install the nut on it. Once more question once I do get the castle nut back on how is the cotter pin suppose to be installed, I forgot what it looked like before I took it out. I can't seem to remember if the pin went around the sides or pulled over the top of the nut. Thanks in advance.
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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    If I recall, there should be a bolt holding the sensor into the spindle. If it's not rusted severely, it should come right out. If not, then some heat from a torch should loosen the bolt. As far as the ball joint, did you smack it with a hammer? I've done that. Get a nut that is the same thread as the castle nut and try to cut new threads into the ball joint stud. It SHOULD work. Has worked for me. Do you have air tools handy?

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Also, I have seen the cotter pin used either way. Wrapped around or over the ball joint.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    If I recall, there should be a bolt holding the sensor into the spindle. If it's not rusted severely, it should come right out. If not, then some heat from a torch should loosen the bolt. As far as the ball joint, did you smack it with a hammer? I've done that. Get a nut that is the same thread as the castle nut and try to cut new threads into the ball joint stud. It SHOULD work. Has worked for me. Do you have air tools handy?
    I have air tools yes and some battery powered tools that are powerful like air tools. Getting the bolts out was easy but I can't get the sensor to come out. How exactly does it come out? Does the hub come off then it slides out? Or does it come out from the other side. Some shop told me I would have ton replace the hole spindle to fix it I knew I didn't have to do that, makes me wonder how they got their ASE cert. Okay so it really doesn't matter how the cotter pin is on there, it just needs to be on there.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    You shouldn't have to remove the hub. Just loosen the retaining bolt and the sensor should just slide out from behind the rotor. At least that's what I THINK should happen.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    You shouldn't have to remove the hub. Just loosen the retaining bolt and the sensor should just slide out from behind the rotor. At least that's what I THINK should happen.
    What retaining bolt are you talking about? There are 4 bolts that are around it that go into the hub. Is that what you.are talking about? I never saw just a bolt that holds the sensor itself. I could be mistaken though.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    The 4 bolts hold the hub to the spindle. There should be a bolt on the back of the spindle holding the sensor on. If you look behind the brake rotor, there should be an excitor ring. The sensor should be in that area.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    The 4 bolts hold the hub to the spindle. There should be a bolt on the back of the spindle holding the sensor on. If you look behind the brake rotor, there should be an excitor ring. The sensor should be in that area.
    Okay I'll look when I get home.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    If the sensor is still bolted in, you should still be good. But keep us posted anyway.

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    Did'nt read all the posts.

    But sounds like you forgot to run the castle nut back on a few thread upside down before you drifted the balljoint out with a bfh..lol

    I happens, but you'll likely have to replace the joint now.

    Can't answer the sensor question as I've never had to replace one yet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    I have air tools yes and some battery powered tools that are powerful like air tools. Getting the bolts out was easy but I can't get the sensor to come out. How exactly does it come out? Does the hub come off then it slides out? Or does it come out from the other side. Some shop told me I would have ton replace the hole spindle to fix it I knew I didn't have to do that, makes me wonder how they got their ASE cert. Okay so it really doesn't matter how the cotter pin is on there, it just needs to be on there.
    I've often wondered this myself..

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    Can't remember if the lower ball joint has rivets or is simply pressed in so I'll give you both ways to remove a typicle GM lower ball joint.

    A ball joint fork works best for seperating the ball joint from the spindle hub.

    But if you don't have one the way I stated b4 will work.

    If it's the riveted style you'll need to drill out the rivets and may have to heat it some to drift it free of the LCA.

    The other type which are only pressed in can again be heated and drifted with some force with a BFH.

    Just be sure to support the LCA from underneath before you start pounding on it with both types.

    If the joint refuses to release you may have to have it pressed out on a machine press.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Did'nt read all the posts.

    But sounds like you forgot to run the castle nut back on a few thread upside down before you drifted the balljoint out with a bfh..lol

    I happens, but you'll likely have to replace the joint now.

    Can't answer the sensor question as I've never had to replace one yet.
    Well if I have to replace it how do I get the old one out. I tried a ball joint removal tool but it didn't fit around the whole joint.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Well if I have to replace it how do I get the old one out. I tried a ball joint removal tool but it didn't fit around the whole joint.
    #12

    A simple propane torch will work well for heating it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Well if I have to replace it how do I get the old one out. I tried a ball joint removal tool but it didn't fit around the whole joint.
    #12

    A simple propane torch will work well for heating it.
    your post notification came in just as I pressed the submit button. I will try that.
    Smittro likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Well if I have to replace it how do I get the old one out. I tried a ball joint removal tool but it didn't fit around the whole joint.
    The balljoint spreading tool is only made to go around the ball joint king pin not the whole joint knuckle itself.

    You drive it in between the hub and LCA till they separate the opening in the tool just gives the king pin a place to go while you drift the two apart.

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    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Here is another type of tool (there are a few different types) for getting ball joinst out.



    You may be able to rent one @ your parts barn..

    ...and here's a couple shots of a "pickle fork".. and a pickle fork set.





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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Here is another type of tool (there are a few different types) for getting ball joinst out.



    You may be able to rent one @ your parts barn..

    ...and here's a couple shots of a "pickle fork".. and a pickle fork set.




    I used the top tool and I couldn't get it on right but I have never used a ball joint press before. And I cant picture how it would go on besides around the whole thing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    I used the top tool and I couldn't get it on right but I have never used a ball joint press before. And I cant picture how it would go on besides around the whole thing.
    The tool with the c-clamp does go around the whole thing like this..


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    A machine press requires the whole LCA to be removed so that it can be placed in the press.

    Much more time consuming, but works well for those stubborn joints that refuse to come out even with heat and a BFH.

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