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What's a fair way to handle this issue?

This is a discussion on What's a fair way to handle this issue? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Back when I had my PS leaking, I asked my mechanic to do whatever needed to be done with the ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    What's a fair way to handle this issue?

    Back when I had my PS leaking, I asked my mechanic to do whatever needed to be done with the alternator (was having a bunch of electrical gremlins). It was true that my alternator had, in fact, been leaked on by the PS. He cleaned the alternator, tested it, and reused it. I also asked him to check the wiring because it had been exposed to the PS leak.

    This was a few months ago. He recently had the car for the trans swap and the steering rack and some other little issues. I just got it back on Friday. On my way home from work last night, my "check gauges" light came on. The voltage was reading low (around 10V). I tried revving the engine with and without load. No change in voltage. I tried turning off accessories, no change.

    I got home, turned off the car, and then started it back up. It started okay, a little weak.

    I have not confirmed that it is the alternator, but I'm not really sure what else it could be. Battery is relatively new.

    If I take it back to the shop, what do you all think is a fair way to deal with it?

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Age of the alternator? If it's 4-5 yrs old or more well then you're kinda at it's service life. If it's under 2 then that's something else.

    Take it to Autozone or Oreilly's and have them test it 1st. Could also be the battery.

    Is the PS pump leaking again?


    Also there is a thin single wire that attaches to the alternator and runs to the ECM. It could be broken, if so I would check that as well. If it is, I have a thread in the tech stickies on how to fix it.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Good point about the age of the alternator. Let me add that while it was there the second time, I asked him to check the electrical again because the convertible top was running slow. I know that could be a different issue, but as it is right now, I'm stranded at the gas station with a dead alternator.

    So I would not be surprised if the convertible top issue was related to low voltage rather than a bad motor or whatever.
    On my way to work, all my accessories started to fail, including ABS, air bag, A/C, etc.

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    What's a fair way to handle this issue?

    That's also a sign of bad battery too.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

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    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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  5. #5
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    I say take it to autozone or oreilly and have them load test the electrical system so you know it's not the battery or the alternator. If it's either or that gives you somewhere to chase. I was fighting an issue with low voltage and it was my actual connector to the alternator. The pin had corrosion on it. Replaced it and issues have been gone ever since.
    98 WS6 M6 ASC #2647
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    I just replaced the battery a few months ago...

    Also, when I go to KOEO, there is voltage available to start the car (just barely). And if I let it idle, it eventually starts to stutter and die (this is what happened at the gas station: I left it running while pumping gas because I was worried it would not have enough juice to start once I turned it off). In any case, I have started the car a few times since the issue, including once to drive it up to the tow truck ramp.


    It's back at the shop now. If it turns out to be the battery, I'm going to be miffed.
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

  7. #7
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    From what I experienced based on charging problems I have had if you replaced everything even the alternator I would take a serious look at the single connector wiring or connector itself. That wire runs up to the headers so there is a chance of heat damage. I went through batteries and alternators within the span of a couple of years. I was chasing a bad current draw problem that would just kill my battery. One was the glove box light. For some reason the door didn't sit right with the switch and caused a draw. Fixed that and then the alternator burned out on me. That was when I discovered the single wiring connector was not fully seated. The alternator I got didn't have the tab to lock the connector in place so the connection always popped out or was not seated all the way in. I rigged it to never come out and all my issues stopped.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Replaced alternator. Things are working fine for now. Might go ahead and put a truck alternator and some HD wiring on the short term list.

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