what should my next mod be?
This is a discussion on what should my next mod be? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have a 98 trans am, 90k on it, WS6 hood was added,no cats, y-pipe to a flowmaster(shitty i know ...
02-26-2007, 12:46 PM #1
what should my next mod be?
I have a 98 trans am, 90k on it, WS6 hood was added,no cats, y-pipe to a flowmaster(shitty i know but it was free), 3 in y pipe and 3 in outlets, SLP lid k&n filter, and the rest is stock.
I was wanting advice on making this car faster, and in what order?
Recommendations on headers, cam, exhaust, tranny cooler,shift kit(auto),torque convertor....etc....whats the best bang i can get for my buck. I would like to hear some opinions from people that have gone through this process.....
02-26-2007, 01:14 PM #2
- Join Date
- Dec 2002
- n/w chicago
- 2000 nhra edition formula
3000-3500 rpm stall, long tube headers, hooker catback, ls6 intake, sub frame connectors, cam kit ( you need to figure if you want the car to be street friendly or just a weekend warrior).
when you figure what the car will be, can give better advice reguarding cam.2000 nhra edition formula
a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
02-27-2007, 08:30 AM #3
02-27-2007, 11:34 PM #4
The best bang for you buck is the stall convertor. Knock .5 off in one chunk. Headers are a great mod also. I would just do everything on your list then add everything from nhraformula's list to it. You can have headers and still not be real loud. I run basically the same exhaust set up you do except I have longtubes and have had zero issues with the po-po and with my cutout closed the car really isn't that loud. Research a cam. You can find a cam for almost any situation.
02-28-2007, 04:58 AM #5
definately stall converter, put a 4300 in mine personal, I would probably go a little smaller if I did it again.
03-01-2007, 09:30 AM #6
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Mt. Airy
- 2000 Trans am WS6
When i had stock motor in mine- I had a 3500 stall that was really street friendly. I would do headers definately- I used to have jet hot 1 3/4's and they sounded good and are reasonably priced, my recommendation would be kooks but they are more $. Also a LS6 intake manifold. As for a cam that all depends on your goals for the car- so would need more info to give any advice.
As far as suspension stuff- SFCs were already mentioned, and also LCAs and relocation brackets, and torque arm for starters.
Hope this helps!
03-01-2007, 11:02 AM #7
I vote for 3500~3800RPM stall with a 2.0~2.3 STR and a set of headers. The stall multiplies the torque you have to get you off the line in a hurry. It's kinda of like slipping the clutch in a manual to bring you up into the power band, only better. Sticky tires will be a wise investment if you plan on racing.
03-01-2007, 11:12 AM #8
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Texas Department of Corrections
- Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch
Stall and a tune/
03-01-2007, 12:46 PM #9
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- 98 Z28 M6
i always see people say the LS6 intake manifold for the first mods. how much power does it really give?
03-01-2007, 01:09 PM #10
03-02-2007, 05:08 AM #11
Yea, I like my stall, but if you want to drive a little relaxed, its sucks... Full throttle is nice though
03-02-2007, 12:39 PM #12
Nitros is better than any thing
03-02-2007, 03:53 PM #13
how's gas mileage with a 3200-3500 stall? is it much worse than stock?
03-02-2007, 11:57 PM #14
Don't even consider this advice UNLESS you want to slow your car down!!!
Maybe a real 2200 on the stock cam at the most. But you already stated you wanted the best bang for the buck... So I would not start there.
I'de change the rear springs so it will hook,then subframe conn.,then a nitrous kit,and then a computer tune. And with a pair of drag radials that = a 12 second car ALL day.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
03-05-2007, 06:45 AM #15
03-05-2007, 07:11 AM #16
But if you want to run a 3500 conv. with a stock cam feel free. I'd NEVER do it.Your loosing too much of the tq curve. You need more than just the peak.
I'm going very low 11's right now in my Goat with the stock convertor on 17"s but what do I know.
All I can tell you fastassbird05 if you do chose to put a loser con. call the manufacture and tell them exactly what you have and I highly dought they recommend anything near 3500rpm for your application.
03-05-2007, 09:25 AM #17
I have yet to hear one person who has a stall'd, stock cam'd engine complain about the stall slowing them down or even keeping them at the same performance level. Yes, the converter might be looser and you might lose a little on the top end. But, the torque multiplication you get on the bottom end more than makes up for it. I saw most of my gains in the first 60-feet (3 tenths). But hey, what does hundreds of f-body owners' experience account for??? You run low 11's...
Last edited by SSpdDmon; 03-05-2007 at 09:45 AM.
03-05-2007, 11:12 AM #18
You say that's almost a standard with LS's. Not here in AZ there is 20 cars out at the track every week on the bottle that are barely breaking 11's let alone 11 teens. Must be different in Mich. cause it sure isn't that common out here on the west coast.
03-05-2007, 08:54 PM #19
I gained .4 with a 3500 stall on the stock cam. I don't pretend to be a stall expert but I can see no way anyone could put a stall in and lose ET. It basically puts the motor in the sweet spot and keeps it there with shift extensions. I can see maybe no needing a 3500 but if you have plans for a cam in the future why not just do the stall once? Like I say, I'm not an expert by any means but I just don't see how a stall could ever be a bad decision.
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