What is the secondary air injection system

**Street Fighter** · 03-19-2015, 05:10 PM

I have three codes all related to the air injection system where is this located. the codes are po410-po412 and po418. I have checked all fuses related to the system,I replaced one fuse checked all the relays by trying them in different places.I removed the battery cables for about 20 minutes put cables back on and started the car still have engine light.where is the air pump located? what else can I do?

**pajeff02** · 03-20-2015, 02:57 AM

Here you go: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/seconda...emoval-130641/

This thread also includes a description of what the system does and how it operates.

**theorangeguy** · 03-20-2015, 05:18 AM

Do you have emissions where you live? If you dont, removing the entire system is not a bad idea but you'll need a tune of some type to get the lights and codes to go away.

**Street Fighter** · 03-20-2015, 06:14 AM

We don't have emissions here but I want to see if I can get this problem solved because it may be coming, I am getting air though the hoses on both sides, I have air blowing from the exhaust tubes also and it did shut off at the pump after a minute or so.could the exhaust tubes still be half stopped up causing the light to stay on? I have the codes p0410-po412 and po418 the car is a 99 TA, I noticed that there is a valve located on the passenger side that is located on top of the exhaust manifold with wires plugged into it could this have anything to do with whats going on with the light not going off? looks like a EGR valve .

***SMWS6TA*** · 03-20-2015, 06:38 AM

If it's attached to the cylinder head then yes that's it. It should have a tube coming off of it going into the top of the intake just behind the throttle body.

You can remove it and the airpump, plug the intake, cap the egr tubes then have a Frost mail order tune to remove any codes and cal it a day. Swapping out to aftermarket headers will eliminate the egr tubes on the exhaust manifolds. There have been cases where the egr tubes break and cause leaks.

Later model yrs GM removed the EGR because it just did nothing at all.

**theorangeguy** · 03-20-2015, 06:42 AM

P0410 Description:

P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction

Circuit Description
An AIR pump is used on this vehicle to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The PCM supplies a ground to the AIR pump relay, which energizes the AIR pump.

The PCM monitors the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) voltages to diagnose the AIR system.

During the AIR test the PCM activates the AIR pump during closed loop operation. When the AIR is activated, the PCM monitors the HO2S voltages and short term fuel trim values for both banks of the engine. If the AIR system is operating properly, the HO2S voltages should go low and the short term fuel trim should go high.

If the PCM determines that the HO2S voltages for both banks did not respond as expected during the tests, DTC P0410 sets. If only one sensor responded, the PCM sets either a DTC P1415 or P1416 to indicate on which bank the AIR system is inoperativ

Update...dug into this a little more...

P0412 and P0418 have nothing directly to do with the pump or solenoid. They indicate that the relay coils circuit is open somewhere. Check for 12v at the AIR pump fuse. Then check the 12v at the relays socket pins for relay pins #85. Something electrical is causing this based on the stuff I'm reading...do you have a pinched wire anywhere? Could be something pretty simple.

**Street Fighter** · 03-20-2015, 11:40 AM

I have checked the relay and air pump voltage and they are 14v with the car running and 12v with it not. I noticed that this started sometime back,the car sits outside and the battery runs down sometimes between charging, could the low voltage have set the code once I tried to start it?I have removed the hot cable and let sit 30 minutes or so but it still resets the code .like I said before I did have to replace the air pump fuse because it was blown.

**Street Fighter** · 03-20-2015, 04:10 PM

After all of the checking and worry the light is out.how long is anybodies guess.I had decided to take it to the shop because I cut my teeth on the early cars and can do anything to them but the newer cars intimidate me with all the relays and all that goes into making a newer car,but I decided that I was going to stick with this until I got it. hoping that this will give me the will to do even more to this car maybe heads and cam. LOL

**pajeff02** · 03-20-2015, 05:58 PM

Generally speaking, an SES light shouldn't scare you so long as you have oil pressure, the temp is good, it is not a fueling issue, and the engine is running well. On the other hand, a flashing SES light is a bad thing -- that means shut it down now.

**0rion** · 03-20-2015, 06:30 PM

I'll quote myself from the other thread.

Originally Posted by 0rion

Did you try clearing the code with a scanner and it came back? The 410 code takes 3 ignition cycles before it will turn the MIL off if you don't clear it with a scanner.....the others will clear when the condition is no longer present.

when you replaced the fuse the light will stay on for 3 cycles and if it doesn't see the 410 fault again it'll turn the light off. Everyone with an obd2 car needs to invest the money in a code reader. It's not "if" you'll need it but "when". Just a matter of time. I've had one since obd2 came on the market. Before that I owned a paper clip for obd1.

**Street Fighter** · 03-21-2015, 03:03 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

I'll quote myself from the other thread.

when you replaced the fuse the light will stay on for 3 cycles and if it doesn't see the 410 fault again it'll turn the light off. Everyone with an obd2 car needs to invest the money in a code reader. It's not "if" you'll need it but "when". Just a matter of time. I've had one since obd2 came on the market. Before that I owned a paper clip for obd1.

What would be 3 cycles? three startups, 3 days or what. I also want to thank you and all that helped me with what I though was something I could not do and that was repair this problem, Before I started I had no ideal what a air pump was and where to find it, Once again I thank you all.

**pajeff02** · 03-21-2015, 04:13 AM

It's what we do here -- we like helping members solve issues and build their rides. We have a great mix of people on here with knowledge in every aspect of these cars. Just ask any time you need assistance or want to make plans for upgrades.

Adding to what Tim posted, you can get a decent scanner for less than $100.00 that will read and clear codes. I have a mid-price Actron that works great. Just make sure it has the ability to also reset the SES and not just read the codes. Also, note that these scanners will not read brake codes, nor will they diagnose Body Control Module (BCM) issues.

**0rion** · 03-21-2015, 06:18 AM

the actron cp9580A will read ABS....it's a little more expensive ($170 ebay) but worth it if you ask me. If you've ever had an abs code it can be a pain in the ass diagnosing without the code. I've been sent on a couple of wild goose chases figuring out ABS codes.

As far as the ignition cycles I'm going to assume it's 3 cold starts where the air pump would run. I'm not positive on that and I know there's also "drive cycles" which take up to 60 miles to complete all the evap and O2 readiness tests and what not. Keep in mind that not all codes are the same....some require a lot more than 3. Again.....your best bet is to buy a good scanner to keep around the house. My current scanner has paid for itself 10 fold just due to the hassle it's saved me over the years.