What Royal Purple Oil in my 2000 Z28

**tx77015ls1** · 12-13-2006, 10:27 AM

What royal purple oil shuld I sure in my 2000 Z28. Mods is my sig

I was thinking XPR 5W30

Thanks, Jason

**SSpdDmon** · 12-13-2006, 10:33 AM

You should run 10w30 down in TX. 5w30 is really for people in colder climates.

Personally though, RP is overpriced. If you want a good oil, get some Castrol Syntec...comes in a black bottle.

**JEB** · 12-13-2006, 08:21 PM

The manual says 5W-30, period. Have you thought of using Amsoil?

**Tyler_LS1** · 12-13-2006, 08:36 PM

I used RP 5W-30 in mine and it worked great

**Steve Crowe** · 12-13-2006, 09:47 PM

I tend to run Mobil 1 but the Valvoline & Castrol synthetics are top notch and don't cost you as much for the same quality. Amsoil & Royal Purple are great but at the cost of a brand name.

What did GM specify for the Corvette engines since the mid '90s? Mobil 1, and it was on the oil cap.

If you have been running conventional oil and change you may find some some leakage over time as the gaskets adjust due to the cleaning these new oils provide but it will settle itself and your engine will thank you.

**Sarge** · 12-14-2006, 03:56 AM

Originally Posted by Steve Crowe

I tend to run Mobil 1 but the Valvoline & Castrol synthetics are top notch and don't cost you as much for the same quality. Amsoil & Royal Purple are great but at the cost of a brand name.

What did GM specify for the Corvette engines since the mid '90s? Mobil 1, and it was on the oil cap.

If you have been running conventional oil and change you may find some some leakage over time as the gaskets adjust due to the cleaning these new oils provide but it will settle itself and your engine will thank you.

GM recommends Mobil1 because Mobil1 paid big bucks for the marketing rights. Dont be confused with specifies and recommends. Your post implies GM is endorsing Mobil1 as some how superior when that is very far from the truth.

**Sarge** · 12-14-2006, 03:56 AM

Originally Posted by tx77015ls1

What royal purple oil shuld I sure in my 2000 Z28. Mods is my sig

I was thinking XPR 5W30

Thanks, Jason

Perfect. Good stuff. And made right in your backyard

**SSpdDmon** · 12-14-2006, 06:47 AM

Originally Posted by Mr Incredible

Here is a good link explaining a few things about viscosity and oil, with a few other links to good information: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

By the way, thick things (honey) have a higher viscosity, thin things (water) have a lower viscosity. Oils are measured at a representative operating temperature for purposes of comparison (40°C or 100 °C).

For the first number in 5w-30, the smaller number represents the weight of the oil when cold. In this case the oil has the viscosity and flow like a 5 weight oil when cold. This is important at startup and during cold temperatures to get oil distributed quickly.

The larger number represents how the oil will act at temperature. In this case the oil has the viscosity and flow like a 30 weight oil when hot. This is important during the normal operation of the engine, keeping a strong film of oil on moving parts.

Folks who explore the operating limits of their engines on the high side might want to use a higher weight oil to keep that strong film of oil on moving parts. However, too thick of oil will compromise gas mileage, and too thin of oil will allow more metal to metal contact.

Auto companies will indicate use of a thinner oil (0w-20) to meet fuel mileage requirements and to work with the closer tolerances of modern engines.

Modern oils provide outstanding protection for engines across the spectrum of weights. On dyno day you may want to use 0w-20 to help produce a couple more horsepower, and on racetrack day you may want to use something in a 40w to provide protection at extended high temps and engine abuse.

But for normal driving, 5w-30 or 10w-30 in a sythetic is extremely sufficient.

My .02. Thanks for reading.

Some more over on LS1 Tech...

**Steve Crowe** · 12-14-2006, 09:03 PM

It's all marketing but there are good oils and junk. My opinion is based upon what I've experienced. When I can pull a PCV valve after 30K miles and it's as clean as the day it was made I know something's working. When I have to pull a valve cover to change something and it's pristine under there I know something's working.

Choose as you may but the synthetics are the way to go. Stick with the SAE weight that was recommended for your engine.

**arctic T/A** · 12-24-2006, 06:22 AM

I recently changed the oil in my 00 t/a from dino to RP 5w30 with KN filter. It is my DD and does not see the track. My question is about how many miles can i run my car before my next oil change? Any comments, suggestions, and personal preferance. thanks

**Sarge** · 12-24-2006, 01:11 PM

Originally Posted by Steve Crowe

It's all marketing but there are good oils and junk. My opinion is based upon what I've experienced. When I can pull a PCV valve after 30K miles and it's as clean as the day it was made I know something's working. When I have to pull a valve cover to change something and it's pristine under there I know something's working.

Choose as you may but the synthetics are the way to go. Stick with the SAE weight that was recommended for your engine.

God

....The SAE weight recommended is not for performance nor wear characteristics. It is for CAFE/fleet MPG and EPA. Todays conventional oils will go toe to toe with any "synthetics" ( by the way the ones you "recommend are conventional oil base stocks anyway) as the add packs are on par. I can run a conventional oil like Havoline....determine my proper OCI based on UOA's and pull my PCV after 100K and it will be clean as a whistle kid. Any American made V8 running more than 5K miles or 6 months OCI's need their ass kicked. Show me how any synthetic or synthetic blends will do any better. The misinformation and marketing bullshit in this string is amazing. Do your homework guys....

**Sarge** · 12-24-2006, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by arctic T/A

I recently changed the oil in my 00 t/a from dino to RP 5w30 with KN filter. It is my DD and does not see the track. My question is about how many miles can i run my car before my next oil change? Any comments, suggestions, and personal preferance. thanks

Run it 5000 miles or 6 months. Get a UOA and that will determine your proper OCI's. Not some "experience" from some knucklehead or Internet babble.
Get a UOA and that will cut through the shit for you man....
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/index.html

**Sarge** · 12-24-2006, 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by SSpdDmon

You should run 10w30 down in TX. 5w30 is really for people in colder climates.

Personally though, RP is overpriced. If you want a good oil, get some Castrol Syntec...comes in a black bottle.

You base this statement on what? The color of the bottle? God help me....
How about UOA's/VOA's/....you may want to choose what oil is best for you by those versus the color of the fucking bottle.

**GatorSS** · 12-24-2006, 09:28 PM

Spoken like a real oil master. I agree with Sarge.

**astyles** · 12-25-2006, 12:21 AM

Sarge has done his research boys!

**Sarge** · 12-25-2006, 07:09 AM

I don't want to come off as an ass monkey here...and I ain't jumping on my Okie buddy Steve....as I re-read it ...it can be construed that way...but isn't my intention....so I'll share my thoughts on oil and try to be brief and to the point.
There is no best oil brand.
One weight of oil doesn't work for everybody even though we may have the exact same motor.
Geographic conditions/Driving styles/Modifications/Specific Tunes/Mileage/and yes even the brand of gasoline you burn all play a major role ( See carbon by products in engine oil from cheap gasoline)in what brand and weight of oil you utilize.
Todays oils both conventional and synthetic are better than we have ever had. So it is damn hard to even find an oil that isn't light years better for your motor than what we had just 10 years ago....much less the 40 weight crap we had in the 60's and 70's ( can you say sludge monster)...fricking WalMart SuperTech is better oil than top shelf oils of 1986.
Run a 3-5K OCI with "something" and get a Used Oil Analysis from Blackstone for $20 bucks. That will cut through the crap and tell you what is best for you. If you want...go try Mobil1 5-30 and then Royal Purple 10-40....send both samples off to the lab and look at the TBN and wear numbers. Compare the two. I challenge folks to run a synthetic against a Castrol GTX conventional and compare the numbers

The lab will tell you if that weight is working for you or not. As for different brands...the wear numbers will tell you....Your OCI's ( Oil Change Intervals) can also be determined by this inexpensive exercise. After 2-3 $20 Used Oil Analysis ( UOA's)...your gonna be sitting fat and happy.....with lab backup...not Internet expert bullshit. Run a good oil filter like KN/WIX/NAPA/Mobil1/Amsoil/AC Delco/Purolator....keep your air cleaner clean and in good working order.....change your differential fluid and trannie fluid once a year at the minimum. Keep your tires aired up and wash your fricking car....keep a decent wax on it.....You will enjoy many many miles of haul ass muscle car fun and don't have to "wonder" if you got the correct fluids in there doing the job.

**nhraformula** · 12-25-2006, 09:02 AM

Originally Posted by Sarge

GM recommends Mobil1 because Mobil1 paid big bucks for the marketing rights. Dont be confused with specifies and recommends. Your post implies GM is endorsing Mobil1 as some how superior when that is very far from the truth.

above its totally true

**nhraformula** · 12-25-2006, 09:08 AM

i use conventional oil and have never had a problem.
if a person wants to overpay just because a good marketing program behind mobil one and such, go for it.

**shady milkman** · 12-25-2006, 09:12 AM

when it comes to oil i listen to teh sarge.

**Steve Crowe** · 12-25-2006, 10:27 AM

Some years back there was a study on Mobil 1 which, if I recall, proved it wasn't synthetic at all but a very highly selectively refined conventional oil with advanced detergents. I have a feeling a lot of the synthetics are this way ever since the government changed the way the word "synthetic" could be used.

Busy day today, but if anyone got a nre PC for Christmas and loves to research see what you can find out.