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What oil are you using?

This is a discussion on What oil are you using? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Firebirdjones Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 I became a dealer just so I can get Amsoil products cheaper ...

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    I became a dealer just so I can get Amsoil products cheaper lol. I get the Dominator Racing Oil for quite a bit cheaper than $9 per quart because of that.
    I've thought about that, but for me it seemed like a pain in the butt having to order it all the time and then waiting. I like the fact that I can run up to the store at any time. There is also a little mom and pop store called 7th Avenue that carries it as well as Napa.
    The NAPA by me carries it too but I don't think they carry the type and weight I want. I'll have to check next time I am in. I don't mind ordering personally since I typically order in advance.
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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    I became a dealer just so I can get Amsoil products cheaper lol. I get the Dominator Racing Oil for quite a bit cheaper than $9 per quart because of that.
    I just looked into that again. Appears it's not free to do that either. Looks like at least $50 to start with probably renewal fees (although it conveniently left that info out)

    So I sent in another request for info to see. But I'm not likely to spend a bunch of money to be a dealer for something I'd only buy once a year.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    The NAPA by me carries it too but I don't think they carry the type and weight I want. I'll have to check next time I am in. I don't mind ordering personally since I typically order in advance.
    Yeah ordering in advance would work, since I change these particular cars once a year anyway (generally in the spring)

    The Napa here carries the "High Zinc" labeled amsoil in both 10W-30 and 20W-50 that is recommended by Amsoil for engines with flat tappet cams. So that's what I would likely use. However Amsoil also advertises a "Z-Rod" brand that has high Zinc but is also formulated specifically for classic cars that sit for long periods of time.
    Now this oil peaks my interest, but haven't seen that one on the shelf.

  4. #24
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Another thing to consider is they aren't going to ship this stuff to you for free,,,,so you get dinged for that too. And with the cost of gas that has continued to creep up over the years, so has the cost of shipping things.

    So that along with the dealer fees, In the end it might work out that you aren't saving a whole lot.

    Feel free to chime in with your personal experience on this please

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Another thing to consider is they aren't going to ship this stuff to you for free,,,,so you get dinged for that too. And with the cost of gas that has continued to creep up over the years, so has the cost of shipping things.

    In the end it might work out that you aren't saving a whole lot.
    I'll have to see if they have the amsoil in the dominator racing oil variant at the stores that carry Amsoil otherwise ordering it is my only choice lol.

    I only pay $30 yearly to maintain my dealer status and I will be buying exclusively amsoil products for all of my fluids in my car so it is probably worth it. However if you were just doing motor oil being a dealer would not be worth it most likely.

    I may price it out locally and see how much it compares to ordering via my dealer account online including shipping and see if it is really worth it or not.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 02-28-2014 at 03:28 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    FBJ - what's your take on the ZDDP additives?
    I did read somewhere along this that using the additives could change the chemical make up of the oil and actually hurt the oil!
    Any input FBJ
    Where I read it was in the second link on #1 post scroll down to section labeled Additives.
    Last edited by kingls1; 02-28-2014 at 04:47 PM.
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    Senior Member Whamhammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    They changed their base stock to a lesser quality a few years ago, so it's not better than other stuff on the shelf anymore.
    Well, being that I change it every 3-4K, it probably doesn't have much of a downside, does it?

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    Mobil 1 10W-30 full synthetic, I purchase it @ Costco on sale using coupon for $27 for a 6 qt box.

    Change oil and filter in Sara every 2 years (2001 Z28 - 38K original miles).

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    Also anther thing to keep in mind is with any lower quality oil, changing it 3 to 4,000 miles doesn't really mean much other than hopefully it hasn't had enough miles to deteriorate further. If a oil is subpar it is still subpar regardless how often you change it. Meaning it still doesn't have the lubrication and protective additive properties the high grade oils do which means it still isn't protecting and lubricating your engine as it should.

    Damn FBJ I just looked the normal price of my oil I use from Amsoil is $11.85 a quart. I get it for $9.15 so I save over $2 a quart on it.

  10. #30
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingls1 View Post
    I did read somewhere along this that using the additives could change the chemical make up of the oil and actually hurt the oil!
    Any input FBJ
    Where I read it was in the second link on #1 post scroll down to section labeled Additives.
    You are right, and I've read that before. They really don't recommend adding the ZDDP stuff to your oil. Seems to be mixed opinions on that though, and I can't help but wonder if it's the EPA passing this info worried about cat converters. I know a couple people that have been adding the GM EOS to their oil changes for many years now without any side affects, on cars without converters. So I don't really know.

    I guess it's a judgement call. I have only been doing it in the past on new engine break in or camshaft break in. After that I use an oil with high zinc content and call it good. Lately though, I've been using oil formulated for the break in of new engines without the need for additives. Using Joe Gibbs as we speak for a 327 I built for a customer. After that I'll recommend that he should run a high zinc oil like Amsoil, Brad Penn, or Joe Gibbs, or possibly VR1 Racing oil, from there on out, his choice. No need for additives with these oils.

    Here is my thought process. I have way too many cars, too many to keep track of which oil is in this one and which additive is in that one etc.... I prefer to have one oil that does everything, keep them all the same if I can so it's less hassle for me to try to remember what is what. For the classics I've run VR1 Racing oil for many years, some of these engines have been together for nearly 20 years and running fine. I change them seasonally (once a year). Some sit alot occasionally, but I try to drive them frequently. Spreading the driving out among different cars,,, most won't even see 3,000 miles in that time frame. So this schedule seems to work fine for me even though this oil isn't formulated for long periods of sitting. A couple cars I've changed 2-3 times a year if we take trips, and I have racked up 10,000 miles in a year on occasion with some of the classics, so in these instances of course the oil gets changed more often.
    On the daily drivers like my wifes 4th gen which gets all city driving, I stick to a 3,000 mile interval with Pennsoil Platnum. It's a cheap oil change with good quality oil. I haven't really concerned myself with zinc levels in that car (even though I should) but I change the oil so frequently in that car I hate to spend the extra money on amsoil (yeah I'm being cheap in this instance ) But it's a driver, not a race car or a classic car worth 5 or 6 figures either.
    So I'm giving Amsoil a good hard look again right now, thinking if I changed to that, they have a formulation that would work in all the cars, daily drivers or not, and possibly extend the change intervals in my wifes car to save a bit as well. Then I would have one brand oil on the shelf that is doing everything.
    Sorry for the long post, but oil is somewhat of an odd situation for me.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 03-01-2014 at 07:50 AM.

  11. #31
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whamhammer View Post
    Well, being that I change it every 3-4K, it probably doesn't have much of a downside, does it?
    I'm not an oil guru by any means, I just pay attention to the zinc issues mainly because I have classics with flat tappet cams (some with rollers) but I tend to think since you change so frequently you are likely okay.

    Best way to know would be to send a sample out to Blackstone, and they can tell you exactly how well your oil is doing and if your change intervals are working. It's not that expensive.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Also anther thing to keep in mind is with any lower quality oil, changing it 3 to 4,000 miles doesn't really mean much other than hopefully it hasn't had enough miles to deteriorate further. If a oil is subpar it is still subpar regardless how often you change it. Meaning it still doesn't have the lubrication and protective additive properties the high grade oils do which means it still isn't protecting and lubricating your engine as it should.

    Damn FBJ I just looked the normal price of my oil I use from Amsoil is $11.85 a quart. I get it for $9.15 so I save over $2 a quart on it.
    Wow, our local Napa has Amsoil for $8.95 a quart (plus tax) I guess that doesn't sound too bad then.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post

    Wow, our local Napa has Amsoil for $8.95 a quart (plus tax) I guess that doesn't sound too bad then.
    Pretty sure that is the standard stuff not the dominator racing oil I use.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 03-01-2014 at 07:46 AM.

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    I will play devil's advocate here...

    Does it really matter at this point about oil? These cars are pushing 12-15 years old now and it's likely any other oil that has been used for that long has already did whatever it was going to do. If you haven't seen an issue yet, you probably aren't going to.

    No?

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    Good point. Unless you bought the car new, who knows what the hell got dumped into the engine, or how often it got dumped, over the years.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Something else for me to consider that you already mentioned is that I'm only buying engine oil. I have no plans to run Amsoil in any of the gear boxes or differentials. I already have a routine that works for that stuff. Plus I've found that dino oil works best on differentials, even your gear manufactures and positraction manufactures don't recommend synthetics in their diffs "AT ALL"

    Apparently Eaton claims the synthetics are too slippery and won't allow the clutches to lock up properly. Two of the gear manufactures I like to use (Richmond and US Gear) don't recommend synthetic for their ring gears, and if I recall it has something to do with the oil properties aren't formulated for the high stress these gears see, but my memory is fuzzy on that.
    On a side note, I've dealt with a local differential guy up the street from me over the last 3-4 years. He's been building them since the 60's, been around a long time. He won't warranty any diff that goes out the door unless you run good ole fassion dino gear oil with a G5 rating. He is completely against any synthetic in a rearend, which falls right in line with what I've been told from Eaton and Richmond.

    I suppose if you run a locker of some sort without the use of clutches it wouldn't matter, but there is still the issue of the ring gear though. Something to think about.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Pretty sure that is the standard stuff not the dominator racing oil I use.
    Not exactly the standard stuff,,,,it's actually the high zinc line of Amsoil that they carry for $8.95, which is really all I'm after.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I will play devil's advocate here...

    Does it really matter at this point about oil? These cars are pushing 12-15 years old now and it's likely any other oil that has been used for that long has already did whatever it was going to do. If you haven't seen an issue yet, you probably aren't going to.

    No?
    That is like saying if you have been eating non - healthy junk food for years it won't hurt to continue because it isn't going to have any further negative effects due to what's done is done.

    Using inferior oils may take long time depending on driving habits to show their ugly head also sludge build up can occur but may take many years before you have problems. I would never support such a claim that just because they are this old and inferior oils have been used that there will be no further negative effects. Using a high grade oil that wasn't used before can turn the engine around and increase it's life expectancy and clean out any sludge or build up left by a lesser oil.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 03-01-2014 at 08:51 AM.
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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I will play devil's advocate here...

    Does it really matter at this point about oil? These cars are pushing 12-15 years old now and it's likely any other oil that has been used for that long has already did whatever it was going to do. If you haven't seen an issue yet, you probably aren't going to.

    No?
    Depends on whether you are talking to an old fart or not who has rebuilt these engines and running them from day 1

    I agree though, if people are buying these used 4th gens with 150,000 miles on them, then who knows. It's a guessing game at that point.

    Yeah Will, probably best to get on that routine with any car though regardless.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 03-01-2014 at 08:09 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    That is like saying if you have been eating non - healthy junk food for years it won't hurt to continue because it isn't going to have any further negative effects due to what's dome is done.
    There are people who smoke their entire life who live to be 90+ and feel great and there are people who eat healthy and work out and die while running marathons
    It's on jackstands.

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    Still doesn't mean you should and it is good to do. Maybe they would have lived longer if they hadn't. It also doesn't mean they are healthy and the same can be said for the engine. I wouldn't risk using a subpar oil in my engine regardless of age since the restorative properties higher grade oils have.

    Also just because it runs fine on subpar oils doesn't mean it runs as well as it could by switching to a higher grade oil. Just some food for thought.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 03-01-2014 at 08:13 AM.

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