Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 31

What oil to go with?

This is a discussion on What oil to go with? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I tought royal purple was good but i ve herd other wise. Any suggestions?...

  1. #1
    Junior Member JohnsSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Houston
    Age
    35
    Posts
    47

    White with black stripes
    2001 Chevy Camaro SS

    Question What oil to go with?

    I tought royal purple was good but i ve herd other wise. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Senior Member 35thAnniZ28's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,809

    eating bulldog
    son of biscuit

    every oil has its pros and cons...since i live near the border and its fucking hot!....i use 10w40

  3. #3
    Member SuPeRmAn23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Mission,TX
    Age
    27
    Posts
    145

    Black
    2002 camaro z-28

    haha true that ...thats wat i get...i think unless its 10W30 mobile 1 full synthetic high mileage

  4. #4
    Ebaaaaaaaaa Speedy_Gonzales's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    11,019

    Black
    2014 Camaro 1LS

    mobil1 5w30 works great for me

  5. #5
    Member SAGGIN's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Elk Grove, CA
    Posts
    994

    RED
    02 SS, 03 BMW 745

    I use Mobile1 Synthetic blend 10w30. Royal purple is also great as well. If you change your engine, tranny, and diff. fluid and use Royal purple you can gain up to 10hp.

  6. #6
    Ebaaaaaaaaa Speedy_Gonzales's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    11,019

    Black
    2014 Camaro 1LS

    Quote Originally Posted by SAGGIN View Post
    I use Mobile1 Synthetic blend 10w30. Royal purple is also great as well. If you change your engine, tranny, and diff. fluid and use Royal purple you can gain up to 10hp.

    mine is just reg ole Mobile

  7. #7
    Junior Member JohnsSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Houston
    Age
    35
    Posts
    47

    White with black stripes
    2001 Chevy Camaro SS

    Thnks Alot

    WELL THANKS ALOT FOR FOR ALL YOUR POSTS. BUT I GUN IT ALOT THOSE THAT MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE? i was told that royal purple coats all internal parts of the engine and it builds up gunk? what oil type do yall suggest? Mobile?, Castrol? Vavolin? sysnthetic or not and what weight? 5-30 , 10-30 ,10-40 ,20-50?

  8. #8
    Member Sunset T/A's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Spring, TX
    Age
    64
    Posts
    285

    Sunset Orange
    2002 TransAm

    I use Castrol Syntec 10W-30, no problems.

  9. #9
    Member Ripper415's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    NY
    Age
    31
    Posts
    378

    Pewter
    2002 Camaro SS

    Quote Originally Posted by SAGGIN View Post
    I use Mobile1 Synthetic blend 10w30. Royal purple is also great as well. If you change your engine, tranny, and diff. fluid and use Royal purple you can gain up to 10hp.
    if you believe that i've got a bridge to sell you.

    ps. if you're referring to that hot rod tv thing where they changed all the oil to royal purple and gained 8 hp it's bogus. changing old crappy oil to new synthetic oil of any brand will yield hp gains. notice they didn't then drain the royal purple and use another new oil (mobil 1, etc) and then dyno it. royal purple is not worth the extra money.

  10. #10
    Pistol Pete '96 Z28SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Cowboy Country Stillwater, OK
    Age
    31
    Posts
    265

    Bright Rally Red
    1996 Camaro SS

    I use Mobil 1 5W30. Also something to consider is not just oil, but filter as well. Whats the point of using a good oil if it can't be filtered correctly. Best filters in this order.
    Puralator PureONE (great filtration, great construction)
    Mobil (sturdy can and great filtration)
    AC Delco (OEM not aftermarket)
    Wix/Napa (Both have same construction)
    Fram (only if you have to)

    --------- Chris - 1996 Camaro Z28SS #1524 ---------
    LT4 Cam Kit | Comp Lifters/PR's | Jet Hot LT's & ORY | Corsa RSC Exhaust | SLP Bilstiens | S-C/D Rotors | 1LE Elbow | !EGR/AIR
    madZ tune | 17x11 Chrome ZR-1's | Berger Panel | Fillins | BMR STB | Autometer A/F & Trans Temp | !Mouldings | Zaino

  11. #11
    Member LS1SSZ28's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Age
    27
    Posts
    228

    Black
    2001 Camaro SLP SS #4473

    i use mobil...it comes in the corvette from factory, i have the mobil filler cap and engine badge...so thats whats in my engine

  12. #12
    Member Rob00Taws6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Southern Maryland
    Posts
    255

    black
    2000 pontiac trans am

    Honestly, your going to get a lot of suggestions on the oil topic. I posted a similar question not to long ago under the heading of ( Another oil question) you should find a lot of useful information there from other that answered my questions, one chart was useful to me because it described the base stocks that many of the different synthetic oils are made from. This is the posting!!! It comes from SARGE who gave me some very useful advice on oil and SPECOPS94 whom posted the information in response to my question. This should give you some useful information to make an educated decision on what oil to use in your car. Personally I use to use royal purple on occasion with my L98, and it works great, but I read some where that royal purple contains moly, and over time that gathers in the bottom of the pan. That’s what I know, and you might want to cross check that information. Other wise I think royal purple is ok, would I use it again, maybe. On a regular basis, no.

    From a previously found posting...

    I've had a few questions about this pop up since posting on the old site. So, I'm posting it again here for info.....


    For those of you who use Mobil 1 Synthetic here is something to think
    about the next time you change oil. I got this off of the LS1 board.

    And a little "guide book" and history for those who do not live on
    engineering/chemist forums for "fun"

    All synthetics are not equal. The API has not come out and defined
    what is "synthetic", but rather, classified oils into five major
    groups.

    Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They
    are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no
    uniformity. While some automotive oils use these stocks, they are
    generally used in less demanding applications.

    Group II base oils are common in mineral based motor oils. They have
    fair to good performance in the areas of volatility, oxidation
    stability, wear prevention and flash/fire points. They have only fair
    performance in areas such as pour point and cold crank viscosity.
    Group II base stocks are what the majority of engine oils are made
    from. 3000 mile oil changes are the norm.

    Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of refining of
    all the mineral oil stocks. Although not chemically engineered, they
    offer improved performance in a wide range of areas as well as good
    molecular uniformity and stability. By definition they are considered
    a synthesized material and can be used in the production of synthetic
    and semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III is used in the vast majority
    of full synthetics or synthetic blends. They are superior to group I
    and II oils but still have limitations. Some formulations are
    designed for extended oil changes. Amsoil XM Oils, Castrol Syntec and
    many others fall into this category.

    Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAO) which are a chemically engineered
    synthesized basestocks. PAOs offer excellent stability, molecular
    uniformity and performance over a wide range of lubricating
    properties. Amsoil Synthetics and Mobil 1 primarily use group IV
    basestocks. PAO is a much more expensive basestock than the highly
    refined petroleum oil basestock of Group III. (Can you say profit
    margin! Grab your ankles and sing along!)

    Group V base oils are also chemically engineered stocks that do not
    full into any of the categories previously mentioned. Typical
    examples of group V stocks are Esters, polyglycols and silicone.
    Redline uses an ester basestock.

    In the 90s, Mobil filed suit against Castrol for falsely advertising
    Syntec oil as synthetic, when in fact it contained a Group III,
    highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil, instead of a chemically
    synthesized (group IV or V) basestock. Due to the amount that the
    mineral oil had been chemically changed, the judge decided in
    Castrol's favor. As a result, any oil containing this highly
    hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil (currently called Group III
    basestock by the American Petroleum Institute) can be marketed as a
    synthetic oil. Since the original synthetic basestock
    (polyalphaolefin or PAO) is much more expensive than the Group III
    basestock, most of the oil blenders switched to the Group III
    basestock, which significantly increased their profit margins.


    I have kept my big mouth shut for awhile until I could develop some
    decent "proof" of what I suspected. Mobil1 is no longer a 100% Group
    IV Synthetic PAO basestock. This all started post Katrina when Mobil1
    announced it's PAO plant was whacked hard. Virgin Oil Analysis began
    popping up on various boards refelcting Group III basestocks with
    drops of GroupIV PAO's. Pennzoil Platinum did the same thing....went
    to a Group III basestock in November 2005 by the way. And I do watch
    many boards and forums outside of BITOG.....(which has turned into a
    zoo by the way).....I read the corporate reports of Exxon-Mobil and
    Shell.....so I research and get my info from more than the Internet
    and VOA's....
    I wrote a letter to Mobil asking if their basestock was still 100%
    Group IV and got a "canned response" like others word for word by the
    way....
    " Mobil 1 motor oils are 100% synthetic, utilizing the PAO basestock
    and proprietary blend of additives that is tailored specifically for
    each viscosity. Mobil does not discuss specifics about our motor oil
    formulations."

    You want to know why I have an issue with that statement? Because
    Mobil Pre-Katrina always said and advertised they used Group IV
    basestock exclusively. "Utilizing the PAO basestock...." is not the
    same as "Exclusively using the PAO basestock..."......that is a
    change for sure....the other thing that has me convinced Mobil1 is
    now just another synthetic "blend" is they are now advertising they
    utilize "Synthetic Technology"....
    So.....Mobil in their Corporate Report admit to disaster at the plant
    that made the PAO basestock ( which Amsoil buys there by the way).
    VOA's clearly show a reformulation with Group III showing up. Mobil
    has changed the way they "express themselves" now. Mobil1 now sells
    it for like $5-$6 bucks a quart for a Synthetic Blend oil. And that
    is a rip off as they are now just as guilty as those they sued and
    litigated against years ago.
    I remain an advocate that Mobil1 is good oil. However it is very very
    overpriced for what it is now. Lot better oils out there for less
    money for sure.


    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SSmoky01
    So what oil are you gonna run now Sarge? "Lot better oils out there
    for less money for sure." What oils are you speaking of?
    Well ........
    Full Synthetics
    RedLine / Royal Purple Racing 21 or 41 / Amsoil/ Cosworth
    http://www.focussport.com/liquidcosworth.htm
    Synthetic Blends
    Shaffers http://www.schaefferoil.com/ or Pennzoil Platinum
    Dino
    Castrol GTX or Havoline

    Or Sarges High Performance Soup
    6qts Castrol GTX
    3oz AutoRX http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
    8ozs Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment
    http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=21


    Just in......from a "oil board" and the author is a known chemist
    guru.....

    Okay boys and girls, take a seat cause you aren't going to like this.

    The new M1 EP 5W-30 SM dated Oct 2006 just came out of the G.C. and
    it is MOSTLY mineral oil, presumably Group III. It also contains a
    good slug of AN and some PAO, but little or no ester. Will have more
    data tomorrow.


    And Mobil has changed its spec sheets on the 5-30 EP....
    "PAO + hydroprocessed."
    BY the way GC is Gas Chromatograph....cuts through the sh1t machine

    After all these years of Mobil1 crying about other "Synthetic Blend"
    brands selling as Full Synthetics.....they go and do this.....just
    goes to show you what money and greed will do.


    Originally Posted by Wulfe13
    I've always used Valvoline Full Synthetic.... it is Full synthetic,
    if it says full synthetic, right???
    No...less that 25% is PAO....rest is mineral basestock.....sorry...
    Only true synthetics I know here in the states are
    RedLine/Amsoil/Royal Purple Racing Oils....oh yeah and
    Cosworth.....but don't get all caught up in "what is 100%
    synthetic"......blends and dino's are fine....it is all in the add
    packs....I'm pissed at Mobil1 cuz they are charging a xxxxload for a
    GroupIII product...and are a bunch of hypocrites to boot. $6.00 a
    quart for that xxxx? My xxx!
    Courts said a hydro cracked dino can be called 100% synthetic....that
    is how they get away with that. And FWIW I have 6 qts of Valvoline
    Synpower 10-30 sloshing around in my Dodge R/T right now....good
    oil....got it on sale for $2 bucks a quart

    And Amsoil lil baby xxx aint clean in all this either...I'm still
    pissed at them over their XL lines of oils....The XL line is Group
    III, and Amsoil calls it synthetic. Before that line came out Amsoil
    made a big deal about how Group III isn't really synthetic, blah blah
    blah. But when they introduce their own Group III oil, it's somehow
    now synthetic. Now Amsoil ATM is still 100% synthetic...
    https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atm.aspx but the XL is Group III
    https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlt.aspx

  13. #13
    Member cobra12345's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    wva
    Age
    43
    Posts
    116
    I used moble 1, GC but i just switched to pennzoil platnium car is alot quieter now i like it so far

  14. #14
    Supercharged Ricer
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    79
    2005 Supercharged Tiburon

    I've been using Mobil 1, but I'm going to make the switch to Amsoil.

  15. #15
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    23,785

    Red Tint Jewelcoat
    2008 Trailblazer SS

    I was using Mobil 1 until it was pointed out that it is WAY too expensive for what you get.
    A lot of people use the Mobil 1. It is a fine oil, just not worth the $6 a quart since they switched to a basestock III.

    Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 in all of my cars now.
    Delco filters.
    2008 Trailblazer SS
    Yank PTB3600, Kooks 1 7/8" LT's, 4" intake, E-fans, Magnaflow, Sonnax kit, tranny cooler, tune.
    Lowered, HID's, tinted.

    1999 Pontiac Trans Am WS.6 #1747 SOLD
    531.1 RWHP 481.3 FT/Pounds all motor.

  16. #16
    Member LS1SSZ28's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Age
    27
    Posts
    228

    Black
    2001 Camaro SLP SS #4473

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    I was using Mobil 1 until it was pointed out that it is WAY too expensive for what you get.
    A lot of people use the Mobil 1. It is a fine oil, just not worth the $6 a quart since they switched to a basestock III.

    Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 in all of my cars now.
    Delco filters.
    how much does penzoil run you?

  17. #17
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    23,785

    Red Tint Jewelcoat
    2008 Trailblazer SS

    Quote Originally Posted by LS1SSZ28 View Post
    how much does penzoil run you?
    Last I paid $60 for 15 quarts. Wal-Mart. 5 quart jugs.
    Sarge was talking about Advance (I think that was the place) having a buy one get one sale on the quarts this month.
    Although looking at their site, I didn't see it.

  18. #18
    old timer blue02Z's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Age
    30
    Posts
    3,805

    Navy Blue Metallic
    2002 Z28

    i use amsoil 0-30. protects good. i dont think that royal purple protects your parts really good, i think it cleans well tho

  19. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Age
    53
    Posts
    464

    BLACK
    2000 Camaro SS

    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper415 View Post
    if you believe that i've got a bridge to sell you.

    ps. if you're referring to that hot rod tv thing where they changed all the oil to royal purple and gained 8 hp it's bogus. changing old crappy oil to new synthetic oil of any brand will yield hp gains. notice they didn't then drain the royal purple and use another new oil (mobil 1, etc) and then dyno it. royal purple is not worth the extra money.
    Last oil purchase I made, they (Pep-Boys) had RP and Mobil 1 for basically the same price.

  20. #20
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Texas Department of Corrections
    Posts
    18,123
    Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch

    Let's talk oil.............
    Myth: Conventional oil's are inferior to Synthetics.
    Truth: Todays SM rated conventional oils are better than most synthetics were just two years ago. Add packs are excellent and most use a quality GroupII or GroupIII basestock that has the molecular uniformity once only thought to exist in Synthetics. Synthetics are superior in not breaking down in extreme heats ( above 300f oil temps), cold start up protection from superior flow characteristics, and TBN retention allowing extended drain intervals.
    Myth: I can tell by the color of my oil when it is time to change oil.
    Truth: Many add packs change to darker colors within 500 miles. Doesn't mean anything. Just the chemistry of the oil reacting to usage/heat and is normal. Oil's color is absolutely no indication of the amount of TBN left.
    Myth: Synthetics clean my engine.
    Truth: Synthetics suspend particles in your oil very well....but do not clean anything. You want to clean your motor ( I highly recommend you do it every 20,000 miles) use a cleaner like AutoRX. Todays conventionals carry almost the identical detergent packs as Synthetics anyway so "cleaning" is not a consideration when choosing between conventionals or synthetics.
    Myth: Synthetics give me more horsepower.
    Truth: And beating your Johnson all the time will make you grow hair on your palms. No folks....conventionals are just as slippery as synthetics. Period end of story. Marketing "dyno pulls" are bullshit. Profound statement? Not really. Show me any dyno with any car on it that produces the exact same numbers in two runs. Doesn't exist. Way too many variables in a dyno number that have nothing to do with putting in octane boosters, oil, turbonator etc. etc. Engine temps/atmosphere and of course the dyno operator all play a much more significant role in positive numbers coming out of a dyno anyway. "Yes I took Pennzoil Yellow Bottle and ran it...then I drained it and put in Royal Purple and gained 8 RWHP." Blow me. When you peel the onion couple of things jump out at you. Firstly...hell yes...you took hot oil out and put in cold oil....secondly notice how they never say what the viscosity was....Yup...Pennzoil 20-50 first run and Royal Purple 0-20 second run will give you more RWHP. It's all smoke and mirrors and not to be taken seriously under any circumstances.
    Myth: You cannot break in your engine on synthetics.
    Truth: Myths die really hard. Todays SM rated conventional oils and todays synthetics are so close together it is really hard to determine which is which. Almost all oils ( Syn and Conv) utilize a GroupIII basestock with almost perfect molecular uniformity in both....Firstly the SM rated conventional oils have excellent add packs ( Friction modifiers/viscosity enhancers/detergents etc) and are almost identical to the add packs in todays Synthetic oils. So for anybody to say conventional oils are superior for "break in" is unfortunate at best and ill informed for sure. Secondly lets talk about the touch wood for this "conventional oil for break in myth" and why it will not die.....Back in the day ( and many of you know I have a cane holder in my Goat ) machining technology was done on manual 3 axis boring mills...tooling and metallurgy was not what it is today and you ended up with a less than perfect bore....so obviously the ring pack wore uneven against the cylinder walls until it wore itself into a tighter seal against the walls of the cylinder.....todays CNC machines and tooling are much more accurate and hold much much tighter tolerances that eliminated this "wear break in" event. Also I must add Synthetic oils were not readily available at all even back in the early 70's...so all we had was Conventional oils.....and I think this adds to the myth factor as many of us old farts always remember back to breaking in our new engines on Castrol/Pennzoil/Valvoline conventionals and we have a tendency to forget that was the only oils available and just "recommend" those oils for todays engine "break in" because that is what we used.....and of course ignorance plays a big role If anybody out there thinks Synthetic oil is "slicker" than conventional you need to do some research.....folks run around thinking Synthetics are slicker therefore they wont allow my rings to break in against my cylinder wall ( a non-event anyway )....they are dead wrong....synthetic oils are superior for heat breakdown ( shearing), cold pump ability, TBN wear and retention ( longer drain intervals)....but are not "slicker" by any stretch of the imagination....
    So the bottom line is.....Old school we didn't have synthetics readily available and we hark back to what we used and justify the recommendation by "thinking" synthetics are slicker somehow....and all this is to help our rings wear against our horribly mis configured cylinder walls....which in itself doesn't exist......The only reason one may use conventional oils for the first XXX miles is to flush out factory assembly lubes....and they do not wish to use a more expensive synthetic oil for such a short run....other than that...there is absolutely no benefit one way or the other for using a conventional versus a synthetic oil for the first XXX miles in todays engines. None. To me what is even more amazing are these folks that perpetrate this conventional oil for break in myth then go on and say " I change my oil every few miles during the first XXX miles"...well hells bells folks.....if your justifying the use of conventional oil for this mythical break in period...then turn around and change your oil every 500-1000 miles you just defeated any benefit by keeping fresh clean oil in your sump thus eliminating any and all "abrasive" benefits that assist in metal wearing on metal....just silly .....
    Myth: Pennzoil or Quaker State is made from paraffin's wax and causes sludge.
    Truth: Many folks equate paraffin wax as the stuff candles are made of. Nothing could be further from the truth. Every oil...synthetics and conventionals use a paraffins group product in the manufacturing process. Every one of them! Back in the day oil sludged up because of the inefficiencies of PCV systems and oxidation. Study up. Oxidation/leaky air filtration systems/inoperative PCV systems/fuel dilution cause any oil to sludge....oil doesn't cause sludge.
    Myth: Race teams use this oil or my oil filler cap sez my car manufacturer recommends one brand or another.
    Truth: Marketing. Plan and simple oil companies have bought marketing rights. So many people think if your oil cap recommends a certain brand then that is what is required. Bullshit! Your car manufacturer has accepted big bucks from them to put that sticker on there. There is a difference between recommend and required. Your manufacturer requires a certain API certification that any conventional or synthetic oil meets....like todays SM oil.....(with the exception of the Vette which has a GM certification that is retarded and only applies to a flash point of like 400F oil temps. Guys and Gals...if your oil is 400F I don't think your biggest worry is what brand or viscosity your oil is....I think you need to be thinking about having on fire retardant undies cause that sum bitch is gonna blow ) Secondly because Ricky Bobby uses Brand X doesn't mean the same bottle you buy at WalMart is the same stuff. Truth is race teams may have a big ol sticker of BRAND XX OIL across their hood and plastered on the ass of the race suits and have a totally custom blended oil in their car.....if you think your buying the same thing ol Ricky Bobby has in his superfine race car at your local AutoZone your dumber than I am.
    Myth: I read on BITOG.COM this oil is the "best"
    Truth: There are dipshits on BITOG.COM just like everywhere else. There is no "best" oil. Everybody has different driving habits/geographic considerations etc. The only way to "tune" your oil choices is a Used Oil Analysis. Dyson Analysis or Blackstone Labs do great jobs of analyzing your oil and then you can see what is going on in your engine without all the Internet expert bullshit.....I study many UOA's and have sent in tons of Virgin Oil for analysis to study the ever changing add packs etc. Yes there are trends and one must stay on top of it.....hope this helps you guys....
    And for the record...Amsoil or Pennzoil Platinum are at the top of the heap right now. Every other brand is inferior to these oils. And when that changes I'll post up.
    Last edited by Sarge; 06-17-2007 at 08:19 AM.
    This is my signature. It is mine. Nobody else has one like it.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. High gas price/ oil industry question?
    By Whocares in forum Almost Anything Goes
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-24-2007, 06:50 AM
  2. 110,000miles!!
    By white/blue99ta in forum General Help
    Replies: 38
    Last Post: 05-07-2006, 08:17 AM
  3. Pro ANWR drilling people inside
    By CaptainCaveMan in forum Political / Debate Forum
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 05-06-2006, 05:14 AM
  4. oil change instructions
    By oneBADDz in forum Almost Anything Goes
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 04-26-2006, 09:10 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •