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What Next, I Need More Hp!!!

This is a discussion on What Next, I Need More Hp!!! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by c5z28 You are a rare exception just took my time.....plus one of my friends is an Ebay ...

  1. #21
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    You are a rare exception
    just took my time.....plus one of my friends is an Ebay addict

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28Thunder View Post
    Would not matter if it was a trashed stall... TCI will redo a convertor even if it is not one of theirs for 150.. Yes you will have to pay shipping... But that is way cheaper than new.. And you can choose what kinda of stall you want it to be.
    I had a tci 3600, the main thing was the op did not want a stall and I like to give mark a hard time

  3. #23
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    I had a tci 3600, the main thing was the op did not want a stall and I like to give mark a hard time
    yeah I know where he is coming from, I thought the same way he did about stalls, but.......not getting a stall kinda kills the build from the start....stock these motors really want a 3,600 stall.
    I still find it hard to justify $500 stall, but you almost need one off the bat with an auto
    lol and hey man, dish it out I can take it.....guess its about time for me to troll your site again lol

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    yeah I know where he is coming from, I thought the same way he did about stalls, but.......not getting a stall kinda kills the build from the start....stock these motors really want a 3,600 stall.
    I still find it hard to justify $500 stall, but you almost need one off the bat with an auto
    lol and hey man, dish it out I can take it.....guess its about time for me to troll your site again lol
    try justifying a $800 yank stall

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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    If you are against gears and a converter how about a head swap? You get 20-30rwhp depending on the heads (worked not stock 243's) or more and keep your mpg's, you would need pushrods and headgaskets.
    Interesting, I hadn't thought of swapping in heads alone without a cam...you say you can still get decent gains that way.

    Labour is the wild card though. How many hours would a typical shop charge to swap heads, or to swap a cam. Is doing both at once a savings of time compared to doing one then later the other?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 666ws6 View Post
    Something esle to consider... pulling up next to someone and letting them hear the lope of your cam is so sweet!
    Just how much lope are we talking, with something like a 112lsa is it blatant? I love that sound, but its not exactly a "sleeper" mod. lol

  7. #27
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    If you are against gears and a converter how about a head swap? You get 20-30rwhp depending on the heads (worked not stock 243's) or more and keep your mpg's, you would need pushrods and headgaskets.

    do NOT swap heads and leave a stock cam in there. The opened up runners will hurt things down low and since you cam is just plain dead up top, there is little to nothing to gain. I tuned an 01 A4 Vette recently with boltons and heads only. It made 335rwhp. That's what I'd expect it to make WITHOUT the heads.

    You have to have the stall before the cam, and the cam will cost more than the stall installed. You WANT the converter, you just don't know it yet

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    Member jambofla's Avatar
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    ZEX wet nitrous 75HP - 175 HP, $550 is the best bang for your buck and you don't use it unless you want to cook some rice.
    Suggest investing in a window switch to shut it down during shifts from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd.
    Yank 3600 stall is good idea along with the trans tune.
    If you want to get radical go with the heads and cam and the N20
    Too much is never enough!

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    try justifying a $800 yank stall
    and that my friend is why I have a TCI lol

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    You WANT the converter, you just don't know it yet
    i like it, that is the perfect way to put it Frost

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    Quote Originally Posted by jambofla View Post
    If you want to get radical go with the heads and cam and the N20
    Too much is never enough!
    Oh a man can dream...but that sounds like a lot of broken parts to me. I have ZERO experience to base decisions upon myself so all I'm going on is what I get here and from other guys talking cars. But with any more than full bolt ons I'm starting to risk the 10bolt and possibly the tranny..aren't I.
    (Though I'm sure not using any tire more radical than a 315 nitto 555 street tire does help me avoid breakage somewhat)

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intrepidman View Post
    Oh a man can dream...but that sounds like a lot of broken parts to me. I have ZERO experience to base decisions upon myself so all I'm going on is what I get here and from other guys talking cars. But with any more than full bolt ons I'm starting to risk the 10bolt and possibly the tranny..aren't I.
    (Though I'm sure not using any tire more radical than a 315 nitto 555 street tire does help me avoid breakage somewhat)
    traction kills the 10 bolt..with a stall ...traction will become a issue..since it is nearly impossible to hook up..with you being a street machine...traction is not a issue ...
    also worth noting that torque +traction = no more 10 bolt...but you being on street radials and mostly only street driving on a auto..you should not be worried

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    Junior Member Kamarobuddy's Avatar
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    Go with a Head/Cam Combo!

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    do NOT swap heads and leave a stock cam in there. The opened up runners will hurt things down low and since you cam is just plain dead up top, there is little to nothing to gain. I tuned an 01 A4 Vette recently with boltons and heads only. It made 335rwhp. That's what I'd expect it to make WITHOUT the heads.

    You have to have the stall before the cam, and the cam will cost more than the stall installed. You WANT the converter, you just don't know it yet
    I know you are on ls1tech what about that guy who did the head only swap and got over 400rwhp(I know it was a ls2). For me I have some truck heads, ported bigger valve springs and milled to 58cc, what kind of heads was the vette running?

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    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    I know you are on ls1tech what about that guy who did the head only swap and got over 400rwhp(I know it was a ls2). For me I have some truck heads, ported bigger valve springs and milled to 58cc, what kind of heads was the vette running?
    The LS2 cam is much more suited to those numbers then the cams in the 99-00 vettes / F-bodies though. All I can remember for sure was they were stg2 by some large board sponsor on tech and were 61ish CC's and the vette was a 99.

    There are exceptions but that vette marked the 3rd 3rd gen setup I've seen that was heads only that had very little gain. Another local car made around 350-360 with boltons and TEA heads and stock cam. I just generally try to prepare people for the possibility up front.

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    Ok, if I toss in a cam and a stall I'm going to be launching "realatively gently" from there on out (due to the 315/35/17 street 555 nitto's I run)...yet still harder than my best launch now, I assume, and thereby saving a little ET off the line.
    But mostly I will be making more power thanks to the cam, and realizing more power thanks to the new torque converter and saving a lot of ET down the rest of the track.

    Is this all sounding right so far??? Please correct me if not. This would actually be a good set up for me over being an off the line monster that isn't as strong down track. I think I'm going to be "racing down" a lot so I won't need to be making big digs off the line, but if some kid pops N20 halfway down the track I'm going to need to be able to get fully on it and come back past him.

    Now breakage wise, I assume the initial launch is the the harshest part of the run, even on wide street tires...or would the 1-2 shift be worse (as the tires will hook for that one) ?
    I have to plan my set up around "Survivability" I can't be risking the tranny or the 10 bolt....or at least doing what I can to minimize risk.

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    Junior Member Kamarobuddy's Avatar
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    so what makes a good cam?

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    Junior Member Kamarobuddy's Avatar
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    HELP... I cant figure out how to post a new thread...

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kamarobuddy View Post
    so what makes a good cam?
    Quote Originally Posted by Kamarobuddy View Post
    HELP... I cant figure out how to post a new thread...
    that isnt they way................also search....this has been beaten to death...in short..a good cam is a cam that fits your exact set up and your goals

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    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    I have a A4 and added 3.73's and still get over 20mpg on the highway and alot more kick. TCI 3000 stall is next then I wanna get a C6 vette. After the Hertz rental I had for 4 days I was in love. The paddles and LS3 is awsome.

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