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What Next, I Need More Hp!!!

This is a discussion on What Next, I Need More Hp!!! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Its finally happened...I've become addicted. Some of you may recognize me, I've posted here more than a little in the ...

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    What Next, I Need More Hp!!!

    Its finally happened...I've become addicted. Some of you may recognize me, I've posted here more than a little in the past...but here's a quick summary.

    2002 WS6 A4 with pretty much all the basic bolt ons: headers, highflow catted Y, catback, 180 T-stat, slp lid, filter, bellows, Ram Air, debaffled hood, new plugs & wires, dyno tune and tranny cooler. Also sfcs, stb, sway bars.

    But now what...I'm told a torque converter is a good drag racing mod but I don't think I want to go that way right now. Where can I get the most kick in the pants for the least buck.

    Perhaps a cam? and something to get the tranny to firm up a bit...but not the converter (yet) Any input welcome.

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    Member zmg00camaross's Avatar
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    pewter
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    Pretty sure for best would be a convertor but you don't want to do that. Spend $200 and get a UD pulley free up some up. Cam upgrade is great but it get the most out of you should complment with a set of gears and a stall convertor

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    Member waldo's Avatar
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    Machine Silver
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    what were your dyno results with your list of mods?

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    Senior Member karpetcm's Avatar
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    You can get gears for about 150-200 and installation is about 200-250 which for sure will do its job. Later on when you get the torque converter it will compliment each other nicely. Other then that nitrous. The cam will definitly help out as well especially with your other mods, so you have some choices.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    1st I'll say a 3,600 stall is by far your best first mod, mine is a dd, I went with 3,000 and wish I went bigger.
    get a tranny cooler, have torque management removed, lower shift delay and raise firmness.
    to save some money, look on ebay and search "ls1 cam" look for the "hr284 (fresh cam copy), cost $115 +$17 shipping.
    with the money you save you can buy comp 918 valve springs.
    the cam is 220/224 .570/.580 with your choice of 112,114 or 116lsa. I have the 112lsa and love it.....there again I could go bigger but can't justify $400+ for a cam

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    wowzers...for 1..most cams you will look at need a better converter then stock....a good stall..like a yank 3600 will net you huge gains under the curve (where you are for 99% of the time) peak is nice for bragging to supras...but power under the curve and low ETs are the only thing that matters...a great stall will drop your times .5-.7 depending on the situation...thats huge....also remember..a cam is just stick...without the properly match heads..sorta like lance Armstrong's heart in a 500lb computer geek

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    sorta like lance Armstrong's heart in a 500lb computer geek
    love it! lol

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    wow, so many replys...gotta love you guys.

    Ok, first off converters. I was thinking next year on this one because they are in the $500 plus range (from what I saw in a quick look around) and I was quoted 8 hours to install...thats another $500. The plan was to maybe find a good deal on one somewhere and get a mechanically inclined friend to put it in next summer when they move back here.

    Now a stall, excuse my ignorance of its exact function, but someone said something to the effect of "area under the curve on a dyno graph" Do they actually affect power output to the wheels like that, I had assumbed they let you store up more potential energy at launch, but I didn't think they would affect your rwhp numbers across the graph on a dyno run.

    As for gears, I'm not interested (not matter how much ET I might save) just because my car is primarily a highway cruiser and I need all the MPG and low rpms I can get.....btw I am so jealous of you M6 guys and your double overdrive.

    As for what I'm pulling now...I'm trying to remember the final #'s there were 6 or 7 pulls...but 330hp and 344ftlbs is about right. How much would underdrive pullies really free up, and are they worth it, I heard they can lead to issues (don't remember why, balance issues perhaps?)

    "have torque management removed, lower shift delay and raise firmness" .... This intrigues me somewhat. I'm not certain what shift delay is, can anyone elaborate...if I'm messing around and pull it into a lower gear it does take forever to go back up once I move it back up. I have to do it around 5500rpms so that the shift will happen before I hit the 6350rpm limiter. But I doubt thats the delay your referring to.
    Last edited by Intrepidman; 06-09-2009 at 10:36 AM.

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intrepidman View Post
    wow, so many replys...gotta love you guys.

    Ok, first off converters. I was thinking next year on this one because they are in the $500 plus range (from what I saw in a quick look around) and I was quoted 8 hours to install...thats another $500. The plan was to maybe find a good deal on one somewhere and get a mechanically inclined friend to put it in next summer when they move back here.

    Now a stall, excuse my ignorance of its exact function, but someone said something to the effect of "area under the curve on a dyno graph" Do they actually affect power output to the wheels like that, I had assumbed they let you store up more potential energy at launch, but I didn't think they would affect your rwhp numbers across the graph on a dyno run.

    ok i am going to break this up a little... first about torque converters and str try these sites

    here
    and here

    i personally i am fan of yank and circle D TCs...those are the only two brands i would use IMO... You can wait to get one..but its really just as important as headers when it comes to pushing numbers and the engine

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intrepidman View Post

    As for what I'm pulling now...I'm trying to remember the final #'s there were 6 or 7 pulls...but 330hp and 344ftlbs is about right. How much would underdrive pullies really free up, and are they worth it, I heard they can lead to issues (don't remember why, balance issues perhaps?)


    a UD pulley will not net you much..maybe 5-8 to the floor ..but it will greatly improve throttle response. I would wait on the UD Pulley...the issues some people will run into is 1..they will buy a non harmonic dampened pulley...this causes harmonic vibrations that will over time weaken the block etc...most cars however will never run into this problem...When i get a UD pulley(way down the road) i will get a March UD pulley that has the harmonic dampener just like stock..this will help with the harmonic vibrations...the big problem is that with a UD pulley ..it turns the accessories slower..so it can cause issues with the alternator , power steering etc ..that is why many people get the alt. pulley also.

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intrepidman View Post

    "have torque management removed, lower shift delay and raise firmness" .... This intrigues me somewhat. I'm not certain what shift delay is, can anyone elaborate...if I'm messing around and pull it into a lower gear it does take forever to go back up once I move it back up. I have to do it around 5500rpms so that the shift will happen before I hit the 6350rpm limiter. But I doubt thats the delay your referring to.
    shift delay is the "pause" right before the shift..if you notice..the car will kind of just hold on a little longer then normal and just pause..(someone correct me if i am wrong) but this is basically clutch slippage ..to produce a softer/smoother shift....I just got my car tuned by Frost and he really woke my car up with the transmission tuning etc he did ...the firmness is outstanding ..and matched with not torque management...the 2-3 shift is damn near brutal ...while brutal probably might scare you ..it shouldnt..its now like a m6 car shifting...the car hits 2 and 3 very firm and the car just bites..and that is good for your transmission to btw.....what i will do once i get a stall soon..is also get a nice big trans cooler and a shift kit to complete the package...i have got many compliments about how my car hits now.

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    Actually I was just talking to a guy at the local tranny shop. He was telling me that he would not want to use a shift kit in our trannies. He's particularly not fond of B&M. What he suggested was sticking in a new silenoid (pretty sure that's what he said) a silenoid from a corvette.

    I do have a tranny cooler by the way, but its not very big. I ordered the biggest one listed on LMperformance's website (from a different supplier though) and when it arrived it was maybe....8"x12"

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intrepidman View Post
    Actually I was just talking to a guy at the local tranny shop. He was telling me that he would not want to use a shift kit in our trannies. He's particularly not fond of B&M. What he suggested was sticking in a new silenoid (pretty sure that's what he said) a silenoid from a corvette.

    I do have a tranny cooler by the way, but its not very big. I ordered the biggest one listed on LMperformance's website (from a different supplier though) and when it arrived it was maybe....8"x12"
    a shift kit that is not a bad thing..as long as you take into account the type of trans you got..if you have a stock one..dont push the line-pressure etc through the roof...careful research will allow you to use a shift kit and tailor it to your needs

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intrepidman View Post

    I do have a tranny cooler by the way, but its not very big. I ordered the biggest one listed on LMperformance's website (from a different supplier though) and when it arrived it was maybe....8"x12"
    btu's is the only thing that matters...physical size does not

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    I picked my TCI 3,000 stall for $140 shipped off Ebay. it was listed as slightly used, but when I opened the box the damn thing looked brand new......becareful and check feedback, but Ebay is the way to go

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    Member 666ws6's Avatar
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    I have a 2000 WS6 A4 with 3500 stall, 228R cam, 3.90 gears, underdrive pulleys. Of the four, I'd say go for the stall. It will liven up your drive a lot. Gears are fun too, if you like roasting the tires. Cam is by far the best, but pricey. I did all these installs myself, so the highlight for me was the actual install!

    Something esle to consider... pulling up next to someone and letting them hear the lope of your cam is so sweet!

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    Member 666ws6's Avatar
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    One other thing... I saw you're hooked on modding your LS1.... me too, all of us are! I ordered my TA in 1999 and figured I'd just have one hell of a daily driver. Little did I know I would become fixated on it, get mod happy and spend so much time and money making it into a monster! Damn I love this car!

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    I picked my TCI 3,000 stall for $140 shipped off Ebay. it was listed as slightly used, but when I opened the box the damn thing looked brand new......becareful and check feedback, but Ebay is the way to go
    You are a rare exception

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    If you are against gears and a converter how about a head swap? You get 20-30rwhp depending on the heads (worked not stock 243's) or more and keep your mpg's, you would need pushrods and headgaskets.

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    Senior Member Z28Thunder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    You are a rare exception

    Would not matter if it was a trashed stall... TCI will redo a convertor even if it is not one of theirs for 150.. Yes you will have to pay shipping... But that is way cheaper than new.. And you can choose what kinda of stall you want it to be.

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