What do you use to get ride of squeaks due to age/friction?

[Naaman]

So far, I've used white lithium to address my squeaky dirver side door and my squeaky clutch pedal.

I lubed both a few years ago and the clutch has not squeaked since. The door started squeaking again this fall, and I shot it again with the white lithium yesterday and it's quiet as a mouse now.

Also, I've noticed that if pressure is applied to the front fenders, there is a squeak that seems to come from the fender flexing. Is this possible, or am I "acutating" some component (presumably a suspension component) by applying pressure to the fender which would be causing the squeak?

In cooler weather, my suspension squeaks more. In warmer (Phoenix summertime) weather, it is very quiet.

[2002ssslp]

It's a GM vehicle, the squeaks are engineered into the car at the factory. No extra charge.

[SMWS6TA]

it's probably the stiffness of the rubber from the temperature changes. Cold = hard, hot = soft. Not much you can do about it. Having poly = hard all the time.

[98TransAmWs-6]

I use SLP Loudmouth 1 with LTs squeak blocker to fix my squeaks lol this way I can't hear it.

[Naaman]

I use SLP Loudmouth 1 with LTs squeak blocker to fix my squeaks lol this way I can't hear it.

Anyway, I've found that white lithium works great for the "body" squeaks. Petorlium jelly works good on places that you don't want to spray the lithium. Caliper grease worked as a temporary fix to my sway bar bushing squeak while I was waiting for the Stranos to come in.

I'm trying to come up with a way to reduce the clunking sound of my rear LCAs when I roll over bumpy surfaces. They rotate from side to side, and I'm thinking that their edges are bumping into the bracket that they're mounted to. Wondering if a rubber bushing or slitted O-ring will quiet that down somewhat...

it's probably the stiffness of the rubber from the temperature changes. Cold = hard, hot = soft. Not much you can do about it. Having poly = hard all the time.

Yeah, that's along the lines of what I suspected. As soon as the suspension warms up, the squeaking goes away. Seems like just a little bit of friction generates enough heat to warm it up, or else it moves the lube around and gets it working again...

[98TransAmWs-6]

Umi says if you hear clunking from the LCAs and you previously tightened them to 75 ft-lbs torque them down to 90 ft-lbs. Just a suggestion as I have no experience as of yet with that, all my umi suspension stuff has not been installed yet.

[Naaman]

Hmmm... They are bolted to the subframe connectors at 72 ft.lbs, but the clunking existed prior to the installation of the SFCs. I'll have to look into tighntening them. Might be able to get the car up on my ramps this week to check it out. It would be great to get rid of one more noise.

[Firebirdjones]

What I do on all my cars, inlcuding my wifes 4th gen, is dismantle all the rear control arm and pan hard bars and coat the bushing with a thick pasty graphite grease and reassemble.

When I installed the 12 bolt in her car I also took the time to box in the factory lower control arms and panhard bar for a little added stiffness, but still utilized the stock rubber bushings. While I was at it I removed all the sway bar attatchments which are poly from the factory (SS camaro) and were the main source of suspension squeaks, and I also applied liberal amounts of graphite grease.
The only bushings not lubed are the front control arms, and they don't squeak anyway.

Did all this almost 2 years ago on her 4th gen and the car has been whisper quiet since.

As far as doors, hood, decklid, and other hinges that are really just considered general maintanance, I use a white lithium grease and apply it at every oil change to keep things working nicely.

[Naaman]

+1 on the white lithium. I'll have to look into the graphite grease. That sounds like a great idea.

What do you mean by "box in the lower control arms and panhard bar"?

[Firebirdjones]

Here's what I do,
This is one of the lower control arms after glass beading and welding in a plate. It's the same concept the factory did on alot of muscle cars back in the late 60's/early 70's, you would find boxed control arms on SS chevelle's starting in 1970, some of your GS Buicks etc...The factory would spot weld these plates into place.
I just simply cut to fit and burn it in. This pic is before I ground everything down smooth and painted. People that might look at the car would never notice this stuff, sneaky



Here is the panhard bar already painted and installed. Rather than a plate, I used a hollow 1" diameter round bar that fits nice and snug inside. Cut to length and put a series of welds along the length, and then weld the ends. Since the bar is tucked up in there, you can't even tell it's done.



I prefer this method over aftermarket simply because one, it doesn't cost anything , and two, I'm not a fan of the poly bushings. I like the softer ride of rubber without the noise. I also don't need the adjustability of the aftermarket pieces, since this car stays at the stock ride height.

[2002ssslp]

Here's what I do,
This is one of the lower control arms after glass beading and welding in a plate. It's the same concept the factory did on alot of muscle cars back in the late 60's/early 70's, you would find boxed control arms on SS chevelle's starting in 1970, some of your GS Buicks etc...The factory would spot weld these plates into place.
I just simply cut to fit and burn it in. This pic is before I ground everything down smooth and painted. People that might look at the car would never notice this stuff, sneaky



Here is the panhard bar already painted and installed. Rather than a plate, I used a hollow 1" diameter round bar that fits nice and snug inside. Cut to length and put a series of welds along the length, and then weld the ends. Since the bar is tucked up in there, you can't even tell it's done.



I prefer this method over aftermarket simply because one, it doesn't cost anything , and two, I'm not a fan of the poly bushings. I like the softer ride of rubber without the noise. I also don't need the adjustability of the aftermarket pieces, since this car stays at the stock ride height.

Sweet. I just wish I could fabricate and weld.

[Naaman]

Here's what I do,
This is one of the lower control arms after glass beading and welding in a plate. It's the same concept the factory did on alot of muscle cars back in the late 60's/early 70's, you would find boxed control arms on SS chevelle's starting in 1970, some of your GS Buicks etc...The factory would spot weld these plates into place.
I just simply cut to fit and burn it in. This pic is before I ground everything down smooth and painted. People that might look at the car would never notice this stuff, sneaky

Here is the panhard bar already painted and installed. Rather than a plate, I used a hollow 1" diameter round bar that fits nice and snug inside. Cut to length and put a series of welds along the length, and then weld the ends. Since the bar is tucked up in there, you can't even tell it's done.


I prefer this method over aftermarket simply because one, it doesn't cost anything , and two, I'm not a fan of the poly bushings. I like the softer ride of rubber without the noise. I also don't need the adjustability of the aftermarket pieces, since this car stays at the stock ride height.

It's settled: I'm going to have to make my way up to your neck of the woods and buy you lunch and check out your car.

And is that a 1st gen under the sheet? And is it yours?

[Firebirdjones]

It's settled: I'm going to have to make my way up to your neck of the woods and buy you lunch and check out your car.

And is that a 1st gen under the sheet? And is it yours?

You guys down there are welcome anytime. The 4th gen club does a cruise to Jerome every year that goes right past my house, however I've been too busy and out of touch with that group. Most of my paint work ironically comes out of Phoenix.

That's my 69 SCJ mustang under the cover, my 1st gen is hiding in the trailer.

[2002ssslp]

Sweet. Will you hold some entry level welding and fabrication classes ?

[cammed goat]

When I lube my doors, I use silicone spray. Spray on hinges and felt tracks for the windows.

[Naaman]

I'm picking up some sillicone this week to do my weather stripping. I have a stupid air leak on my driver side door that is on my nerves at 50mph +...

[Naaman]

You guys down there are welcome anytime. The 4th gen club does a cruise to Jerome every year that goes right past my house, however I've been too busy and out of touch with that group. Most of my paint work ironically comes out of Phoenix.

That's my 69 SCJ mustang under the cover, my 1st gen is hiding in the trailer.

Right on. And paint work? Do you run a hot-rod shop or something?

[Firebirdjones]

Right on. And paint work? Do you run a hot-rod shop or something?

You could call it that I guess. I do complete drivetrain swaps/rebuilds, but the bread and butter (and what I prefer) is restoration work (paint body etc..) Nearly 100% of what I do is classic cars and I have a back log here that will keep me busy for another 12 months or more, and with BJ a few weeks away I'm cramming now. No time to even work on my own stuff right now.

[Firebirdjones]

Here's a current one I'm working on. I've had a string of these baby birds lately. This one is getting close to final paint.

[pajeff02]

Same as Rich - I use spray silicone on my door seals and hatch seal. On suspension bushings, I have been using synthetic caliper grease (the stuff for brakes). It is quite sticky and so far all of our poly suspension bushings have stayed quiet.