wanting to change brakes

**Valor X** · 08-23-2012, 12:56 PM

Hey guys I'm new to the forum and just have some questions

I want to change out my rear brakes and just wanted some advice. First off I wanted to know the torque specs for the brakets etc.
Also I want to know whats the safest and best lift points are without damaging the car. Should I use the differential or the pinch welds?
Also is there some other advice you might add for changing the brakes? I'm going for some slotted and drilled rotors and some hawk pads

**Valor X** · 08-25-2012, 08:21 PM

anyone??

**jiveass** · 08-25-2012, 08:49 PM

i dont see a problem with lifting from the differential. my car has a small hidden bike hitch so i usually lift from there. im not sure of the torque, i ususally put the ratchet on and hit it with my palm a couple of times and its good to go. i just changed my rear brakes today. while youre in there, go ahead and check for any play in your axles.

**Dsmdave** · 08-25-2012, 09:40 PM

Don't forget to bleed the lines too. Goodntime to change the fluid while you are in there

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**Valor X** · 08-26-2012, 11:16 AM

thanks for the advice, also I forgot to ask; Is it safe to use a regular c-clamp to compress the caliper pistons or should i get a special tool?

**Too Fast** · 08-26-2012, 12:15 PM

You can use anything handy to compress the caliper pistons. If you are going to bleed the brakes, then open the bleeder valve first, compress the pistons, then close the bleeder valve. Then, make sure the master cylinder is full. Next, re-install the brake calipers, (after you put everything back together with your new Hawk pads and rotors) open a bleeder valve, let it drain until you see clean fluid, close the bleeder valve, repeat for the other side. Now, to be sure the air is out of the brake system, get in the car and pump up your brake pedal until it is firm. Now, go to your calipers and open your bleeder valve on a caliper until nothing but fluid comes out, then repeat for the other side.

No need to bleed the brakes unless you open a bleeder valve or disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. When you compress the pistons, the old dirty fluid goes back into the master cylinder, so if you do it that way, make sure the master cylinder does not get over-filled. So, if you open the bleeder and do it as described above, no dirty fluid goes backwards. Be ready to catch the old fluid out of your calipers.

**Valor X** · 08-26-2012, 05:00 PM

^ awesome advice

, I wasn't planning on pulling a hose and bleeding the brakes but now I might reconsider bleeding the system and refilling the master cylinder with new fluid while I'm down there. Is there a certain brand that you guys recommend that would work best?
Also this is a newbie question but what are the torque specs on the wheel lugs, I dont want to overtighten and cause them to break later

**02z28ttop** · 08-26-2012, 06:33 PM

100

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**Too Fast** · 08-27-2012, 02:35 AM

Yep 100 is the torque for wheel lug nuts for our cars. Use a star pattern when you do it, not around in a circle, and don't have all the weight on the wheels when doing it, just lower the car enough so the wheels don't turn.

No special brand for brake fluid, you can use DOT 3 or 4. Nothing else. Make sure the fluid is from a new container, not one that has been sitting in someone's garage for any more than 6 months. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs water, doing so protects your steel components).