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VATS????Security problem with the VATS.

This is a discussion on VATS????Security problem with the VATS. within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; My key cylinder went out 2 months ago and wouldnt read the pellet on the resistor on the key.I bypassed ...

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    Chevy Power LS1RacerMan30's Avatar
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    Angry VATS????Security problem with the VATS.

    My key cylinder went out 2 months ago and wouldnt read the pellet on the resistor on the key.I bypassed it so I can drive it.Everything works good only but if the car sits for 3 days,The battery is dead.I checked the alternator and its good and the battery is brand new.I did bypass the VATS by soldering the wires from the key cylinder to the pellet on the key so it would start and run properly.I was wondering since I bypassed the VATS,Does it use power and possibly be draining the battery?It started doing that when I bypassed the VATS but Im just wondering if the VATS uses power when its on like that 24/7.I tried to hook up a toggle switch to turn it off and on but I realized the wires from the key cylinder are special type and the car wouldnt start so I disconnected it.I can pull the plug out but I dont want to tear the under dash every nite to get to it.Need some help???Thanx guys

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    Senior Member 02z28ls1's Avatar
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    You have a different problem other than the VATS drawing power. I drove a 98 Camaro for years with the VATS bypassed for a remote start deal, it doesn't draw power. Incidentally you can simply use a .25 cent resistor from Radio Shack instead of the actual key.
    Take a test light or volt/ohm meter and put it inline with your disconnected battery terminal. Leaving the key off and out of the ignition (so the key buzzer doesn't draw power) start pulling fuses until you find the circuit that turns off the test light. This will narrow down the circuit where you are drawing power. It's usually something like a light being left on in the interior or something. Anyway you might have to diagnose it furhter, but at least this will point you in the right direction.
    In closing remember that a new battery can be having problems also. If you don't find a draw then have the battery checked.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 02z28ls1 View Post
    You have a different problem other than the VATS drawing power. I drove a 98 Camaro for years with the VATS bypassed for a remote start deal, it doesn't draw power. Incidentally you can simply use a .25 cent resistor from Radio Shack instead of the actual key.
    Take a test light or volt/ohm meter and put it inline with your disconnected battery terminal. Leaving the key off and out of the ignition (so the key buzzer doesn't draw power) start pulling fuses until you find the circuit that turns off the test light. This will narrow down the circuit where you are drawing power. It's usually something like a light being left on in the interior or something. Anyway you might have to diagnose it furhter, but at least this will point you in the right direction.
    In closing remember that a new battery can be having problems also. If you don't find a draw then have the battery checked.
    Ill give it a try and check some stuff out.THanks for the info.

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    resistor type?

    ok now i'm ready to got to radio shack to get resitor and noticed they had diffent types(1/4 watt carbon flim, 1/2 watt carbon flim and 1/4 watt metal flim) does it matter what type and long as you get the correct resitance? Thanks for any help not much good with electronics.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 02z28ls1 View Post
    You have a different problem other than the VATS drawing power. I drove a 98 Camaro for years with the VATS bypassed for a remote start deal, it doesn't draw power. Incidentally you can simply use a .25 cent resistor from Radio Shack instead of the actual key.
    Take a test light or volt/ohm meter and put it inline with your disconnected battery terminal. Leaving the key off and out of the ignition (so the key buzzer doesn't draw power) start pulling fuses until you find the circuit that turns off the test light. This will narrow down the circuit where you are drawing power. It's usually something like a light being left on in the interior or something. Anyway you might have to diagnose it furhter, but at least this will point you in the right direction.
    In closing remember that a new battery can be having problems also. If you don't find a draw then have the battery checked.
    Hey Thanks for the input.I went over the wiring and the guy that used to own it ran a 12v hot wire directly to the stereo so he wouldnt have to use the ignition to turn on the radio.So therefore the radio was off but it kept the ACC ignition wires still on and all the relays were drawing power.Yay,I got my baby back to normal bro.Thanks again.Darrell

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    Quote Originally Posted by thorn210 View Post
    ok now i'm ready to got to radio shack to get resitor and noticed they had diffent types(1/4 watt carbon flim, 1/2 watt carbon flim and 1/4 watt metal flim) does it matter what type and long as you get the correct resitance? Thanks for any help not much good with electronics.
    Hey bro,Get a digital ohmeter and put each lead on each side of the pellet on the key and it will tell u what resistance it is.Then go to radio shack and tell them the resistor that u want.If your not sure,Bring the ohmeter with u and test each resistor at Radio Shack until it reads the same on the key.Another way to do it is how I did it was I bought another key from the dealer and I cut the orange wire plug underneath the dash and I soldered each wire to each side of the pellet and my car fired up right away.Mines been like that for 3 months now.Perfect and running.Good Luck bro,Darrell

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    thanks

    Thanks to this tread I wont hve to have my car towed to the dealer and have the ignition replaced $$$$$$$. I used a piece of wire, my extra key and my wife at the wheel, we got the car stared and into the garge. Tomarrow I will get a resistor(or the spare key) and solder it in. It make you feel good to be able use a site like this to save major bucks. Really great to have people thaty will share thier experiance. Thanks Again!

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    Quote Originally Posted by thorn210 View Post
    Thanks to this tread I wont hve to have my car towed to the dealer and have the ignition replaced $$$$$$$. I used a piece of wire, my extra key and my wife at the wheel, we got the car stared and into the garge. Tomarrow I will get a resistor(or the spare key) and solder it in. It make you feel good to be able use a site like this to save major bucks. Really great to have people thaty will share thier experiance. Thanks Again!
    No problem bro.My car sat almost a month before I figured it out from someone else on this thread.Happy to hear U got it started.ttyl Darrell

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    Sweet-it's cool to hear people getting help and fixing this stuff themselves!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 02z28ls1 View Post
    Sweet-it's cool to hear people getting help and fixing this stuff themselves!
    I was gonna replace my Ignition Cylinder and the part was gonna cost 350.00.Im like,Damn.Way too much.If IM gonna spend that much bro,I might as well get a nitrous kit.LoL..ttyl Bro,Darrell

    Let me know when u finish soldering your key and how it works.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1RacerMan30 View Post
    I was gonna replace my Ignition Cylinder and the part was gonna cost 350.00.Im like,Damn.Way too much.If IM gonna spend that much bro,I might as well get a nitrous kit.LoL..ttyl Bro,Darrell

    Let me know when u finish soldering your key and how it works.
    I used two resistors I got from radio shack, they came in a pack of 5 for $.99 so it cost $2.14 total!! Took about five minutes to solder and button everything back up. My Dealer quoted around $500.00 to tow in replace Clyinder and keys. I'am very happy now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thorn210 View Post
    I used two resistors I got from radio shack, they came in a pack of 5 for $.99 so it cost $2.14 total!! Took about five minutes to solder and button everything back up. My Dealer quoted around $500.00 to tow in replace Clyinder and keys. I'am very happy now.
    Just remember that the PASS-II is bypassed now...that means no ignition kill. Not that it was impossible to steal before but now your car can be ripped off the old fashion way. You didn't cut any wires did you? Hopefully you just disconnected the harness and stuck the resistor into the BCM side..

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    What is required to get into the ignition to bypass the security system. Do you have to pull the wheel off and go from there or is there an easier way? Ive never went into an ignition switch before so this is new to me but I get stranded everywhere I go and im sick of it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000TransAm400HP View Post
    What is required to get into the ignition to bypass the security system. Do you have to pull the wheel off and go from there or is there an easier way? Ive never went into an ignition switch before so this is new to me but I get stranded everywhere I go and im sick of it.
    No yuo don't have to pull the wheel to bypass. just to fix permently. I did a search and found atread with this link; http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html . this page has all the info you should need.

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    ^^Nice link

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