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Trunk Lift

This is a discussion on Trunk Lift within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by NastySS HI Jay, Thanks for all your help,,,,! Is the panel removal easy and Not-Time consuming? I ...

  1. #41
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NastySS View Post
    HI Jay,

    Thanks for all your help,,,,! Is the panel removal easy and Not-Time consuming? I have not been back there yet to assess what is needed to remove it. One Problem I usually have is time necessary to work on a project. On page 1 of this thread, you can see a strut pic of someone who bought LONGER NEW struts, incomparison to the old shorter ones. The diff in length looks like what I have.

    Also, I think I will have to unclip BOTH old struts at the hatch connection point before usung the 2x4 to prop it up, as I think I will have to raise the whole hatch a bit higher to in stall the new, 1.5 inch longer struts.
    to remove the panel take off the ttops and remove the plastic piece on the rear side where the ttops back metal rods slides in to secure it. Then take off plastic hook on top of the panel. Take the bottom screw by the kick panels.After that lower the rear seat and slowly start to pry the panel off.

    The struts I got were not that longer than the old ones. If you pull the hatch higher you should be able to attach them with no problem
    Last edited by JayTA98; 06-15-2011 at 07:47 AM.

  2. #42
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Thanks Jay,,,,,I really appreciate the time you take to help me!. I will let you know how it goes when I get time again!! Regards,,,Tom.

  3. #43
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Hey Jay,

    I was able to squeeze in an hour yesterday morning to do this job. The helpful instructions from your experience doing the strut replacement was really a time saver!! The job was only SLIGHTLY more difficult since the new Struts (Monroe part # 901032, which I paid 14 bucks a piece for, with free shipping) are 1.5 inches longer than the stock GM struts.

    For those members who may have to do this job in the future, the only non-standard tool you need is a Torx T-50 bit to unbolt the end of the Strut that is secured to the body of the car, as opposed to the end that attaches (Clips) to the hatch itself.

    First I propped up the hatch with a 2 x 4 as high up as it would go. I also taped an old piece of rag to the end of the 2x4 that contacts the Hatch to prevent any possible scratches.

    I took the DRIVER"S SIDE off first with no problems. When I got it off, I tried to compress it, and it was very stiff.. THEN I STARTED TO WORRY that something else could possibly be wrong here.

    After bolting the new one on, I had to unclip the end of the PAGGENGER SIDE strut, in order to lift the trunk lid a few inches higher to be able to clip on the new DRIVER'S SIDE strut. Now, the driver's side was finished.

    Since the PASSENGER SIDE WAS ALREADY UNCLIPPED, ALL I had to do now was unbolt it. When I took it off, I immediately saw oil running down the tube, and there was pretty much NO RESISTANCE WHEN I TRIED TO EXPAND AND COMPRESS THE STRUT. Obviously this was the bad strut !!!!!,,,and one good Strut is not strong enough to hold up the hatch.

    Well, I put the Passenger Side one on, and all is a good in the world (at least for the struts!!!...lol... ). Obviously I had to deal with securing both of the plastic panels on in reverse order.

    The strut replacement even fixed the problem of the hatch not popping up high enough to disengage when I press the "Hatch release" button on my remote. Now, the freaking Hatch pops up like 3 inches when I press that button on the remote!!,,,then I just give it about 3 pounds of lift and the hatch just flies right up!

    Well, that's all for today folks!!! And thanks again JayTA98....!

  4. #44
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    1998 Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by NastySS View Post
    Hey Jay,

    I was able to squeeze in an hour yesterday morning to do this job. The helpful instructions from your experience doing the strut replacement was really a time saver!! The job was only SLIGHTLY more difficult since the new Struts (Monroe part # 901032, which I paid 14 bucks a piece for, with free shipping) are 1.5 inches longer than the stock GM struts.

    For those members who may have to do this job in the future, the only non-standard tool you need is a Torx T-50 bit to unbolt the end of the Strut that is secured to the body of the car, as opposed to the end that attaches (Clips) to the hatch itself.

    First I propped up the hatch with a 2 x 4 as high up as it would go. I also taped an old piece of rag to the end of the 2x4 that contacts the Hatch to prevent any possible scratches.

    I took the DRIVER"S SIDE off first with no problems. When I got it off, I tried to compress it, and it was very stiff.. THEN I STARTED TO WORRY that something else could possibly be wrong here.

    After bolting the new one on, I had to unclip the end of the PAGGENGER SIDE strut, in order to lift the trunk lid a few inches higher to be able to clip on the new DRIVER'S SIDE strut. Now, the driver's side was finished.

    Since the PASSENGER SIDE WAS ALREADY UNCLIPPED, ALL I had to do now was unbolt it. When I took it off, I immediately saw oil running down the tube, and there was pretty much NO RESISTANCE WHEN I TRIED TO EXPAND AND COMPRESS THE STRUT. Obviously this was the bad strut !!!!!,,,and one good Strut is not strong enough to hold up the hatch.

    Well, I put the Passenger Side one on, and all is a good in the world (at least for the struts!!!...lol... ). Obviously I had to deal with securing both of the plastic panels on in reverse order.

    The strut replacement even fixed the problem of the hatch not popping up high enough to disengage when I press the "Hatch release" button on my remote. Now, the freaking Hatch pops up like 3 inches when I press that button on the remote!!,,,then I just give it about 3 pounds of lift and the hatch just flies right up!

    Well, that's all for today folks!!! And thanks again JayTA98....!
    your welcome. I'm glad you figure it out. Mine was the same the passenger side was the bad one. These hatches are so heavy that if one of the struts fail will cause the hatch to come down.

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