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Transmission Tail shaft leaking

This is a discussion on Transmission Tail shaft leaking within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Took the car to cobblestone today for a transmission fluid flush, and they told me their was a leak in ...

  1. #1
    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Transmission Tail shaft leaking

    Took the car to cobblestone today for a transmission fluid flush, and they told me their was a leak in the tail shaft. It's not big at all, but they noticed it which makes me feel a little uncomfortable. Brake Masters will fix it for 100, but I guess my question is should i really be that worried about this? Cobblestone dudes (yes, the chevron station small garage. THAT cobblestone.) said it was minor, but I shouldn't forget about it. Has anyone had any experience with this?

    Also, during the transmission flush they told me they had to refill the radiator with 3 quarts of coolant. That's a big number for something that shouldn't be leaking.. i'll keep a close eye on it. I haven't flushed the system yet but i'm gonna get on top of that asap. Question for that, how do I clean up the sludge and mud looking junk in the radiator when I flush it? How do I prevent air pockets as well?

    thanks in advance

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    Tailshaft seal is an easy fix. Several bucks for the seal, remove the driveshaft, pry out the old seal (special tool helps), apply a little Permatex to the perimeter of the new seal and tap it in place (again, a special tool can help) and then re-install the driveshaft. About a 15 minute job if you know what you are doing.

    The cooling system requires regular maintenance. The factory manual advises against a chemical flushing agent, but if yours is gunked up you probably have no choice. The reservoir can be easily removed and cleaned with any number of chemicals, just so long as it is rinsed out well before reinstallation. I have used CLR (a household cleaning product) with great success. As far as removing air from the system, raising the front end, bouncing the car on its suspension, slowly filling the system, squeezing the hoses and revving the engine after it starts to warm up can all help remove air pockets. Watch the temp gauge carefully and if the upper hose stays cold you know the system is airlocked. Let it coold down and start over.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Welcome to the pink tee shirt club. They all leak.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Thanks a ton Jeff for the great advice. Of course I have no idea what i'm doing with the tailshaft, i'll try to look for a write up somewhere (any tips anyone?). And I didn't know regular maintenance was required for coolant. I don't know how much gunk is in there but I can say that it looked like mud was on the dip stick when I checked it last. I'll either try to wash it all out with an extra gallon or two of distilled water, or if that fails use CLR then. Boy I can't wait to get my hands dirty!

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    Not much work needed for the tailstock seal swap. You have 2 bolts on each U-joint strap, and may need to lightly tap it with a hammer to disengage it. I always place a mark on the U-joint cap and on the differential yoke so that it goes back together the same way it came out. Best bet is to have someone help you and as soon as you disengage the joint from the yoke, wrap the joint with electrical tape as the caps can come off and spill their needle bearings. Then, with a suitable container under the tailstock to catch any dripping, slide the front yoke out of the transmission.

    While the driveshaft is out, check both U-joints for freedom of movement. There shouldn't be any slop and they should move easily in all directions. If you feel one binding up, or it has noticeable slop, it is time for it to be replaced. The old seal can be carefully pried out with a screwdriver. If it is difficult, you can partially collapse it by placing a flat head screwdriver against the lip and hammering towards the output shaft (carefully). Honestly, the hardest part for me has always been installing the new seal. As you get one side started, it'll pop back out as you try to work your way around the perimeter of the seal. I use a plastic or rubber hammer on these so as not to inflict any damage. Patience is the key. Once it is in, clean and then lube the front yoke with a little transmission fluid before sliding it back home. A little Loctite on the strap bolts is also a good idea.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Not much work needed for the tailstock seal swap. You have 2 bolts on each U-joint strap, and may need to lightly tap it with a hammer to disengage it. I always place a mark on the U-joint cap and on the differential yoke so that it goes back together the same way it came out. Best bet is to have someone help you and as soon as you disengage the joint from the yoke, wrap the joint with electrical tape as the caps can come off and spill their needle bearings. Then, with a suitable container under the tailstock to catch any dripping, slide the front yoke out of the transmission.

    While the driveshaft is out, check both U-joints for freedom of movement. There shouldn't be any slop and they should move easily in all directions. If you feel one binding up, or it has noticeable slop, it is time for it to be replaced. The old seal can be carefully pried out with a screwdriver. If it is difficult, you can partially collapse it by placing a flat head screwdriver against the lip and hammering towards the output shaft (carefully). Honestly, the hardest part for me has always been installing the new seal. As you get one side started, it'll pop back out as you try to work your way around the perimeter of the seal. I use a plastic or rubber hammer on these so as not to inflict any damage. Patience is the key. Once it is in, clean and then lube the front yoke with a little transmission fluid before sliding it back home. A little Loctite on the strap bolts is also a good idea.
    I had replaced my tranny tail shaft seal following the same directions as Jeff pointed out for me in the past. Is not really that hard. The most important thing is setting the new seal. Once I got it started I used a piece of wood that covers the whole seal and I tapped the whole block of wood.

    Jeff also helped me do my 1st complete coolant flush in my car. I did a write up with pics so others find it easy to follow. You are welcome to look at it if you need to do a flush in the future.

    DIY cooling sytem flush

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002ssslp View Post
    Welcome to the pink tee shirt club. They all leak.
    Amen to that Keith, change my seal, had the tranny out for clutch have know idea were that shit is coming from but every time I back out there it is...lol
    As for putting in the new seal mine had the dust cover so I just used the old seal, fit over the dust cover and worked around with a rubber hammer.
    99 Trans Am, SLP Lid, Blackwing filter, smooth bellow, Ported TB, LS6 intake, Ws6 lower ram air box, OBX LT's, Magna Flow cat back, LS7 clutch, Tick MC, Hurst Shifter, Frost Tune, UMI SFC,LAC, STB, PB, Torq Arm, Super Hawk hood, Torq Thrust II, Kee Audio.
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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Awesome. I don't know what any of those things looks like though lol. I'm by far the worst with car repairs. My hearts in the right place, but my knowledge isnt. Stupid but is there a write up anywhere?

    Just noticed that something down there has been rattling on and off since the flush! what do they play with that could make the rattle happen?
    2014 Camaro: Check. 2SS: Check. 1LE: Check. 6 Speed manual? CHECK

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    Hard to tell -- but better take a look to make sure it isn't anything critical.

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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    I'm gonna take it in tomorrow and tell them to fix what they did to it. I'll keep you all updated for sure.

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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Found out what the rattle is. Turns out the exhaust is chattering with the Cross-member under pressure! Any idea on how to fix this? Cause I have no idea why it started doing it now when it wasn't doing it before.

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    You have to loosen the exhaust clamps and adjust things. Could be that a clamp loosened up on you and that caused the issue. Unfortunately, an adjustment for clearance in one spot may cause interference in another. May take some time and patience to get it all right.

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