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Trans am won't start

This is a discussion on Trans am won't start within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; yeah, those plugs look like ass. I wouldn't just replace the ones you can reach easiliy. I'd do them all. ...

  1. #21
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    yeah, those plugs look like ass. I wouldn't just replace the ones you can reach easiliy. I'd do them all. What brand of plugs are in it and what's the numbers on them? I would wonder why they weren't wet if you've been cranking on the car. Case in point. This spring my buddy was having issues and the car would run like shit then stall and not restart. I pulled a plug and it was gas soaked and fouled beyond all belief. Do you have access to anyone with autotap or something similar? I would strongly suggest having someone log it while you try to start it. That will tell you a ton about what's going on with the car. Check the local forum here at the board and see if someone close to you can hook you up.

  2. #22
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    black
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    I was suspecting wet plugs myself since I have basically gone through a battery worth of cranking. If I have fuel pressure then I suppose the injectors could be clogged? The car has been sitting for some time.

    The plug is an NGK V-Power 8. Model R5724-8.

  3. #23
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    00 LS1, WS6, V8 Gremlin
    96 & 98 GTPs, 64 'Cuda

    Replace the plugs for now, even if you use cheap ones. If I recall Wal Mart has Autolite 605 which come fairly pre-gapped.

    That NGK plug is a super cold racing one, explains a lot of things.

  4. #24
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    black
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    I tried to buy the same type today but could not find them. I ended up buying NGK TR6 v-power. Do you think that is a good one?

  5. #25
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    black
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    hey all i was just reading along...i dont have any ideas for you but i wish you the best of luck

  6. #26
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    Some good news ....

    I only had a chance to change the one plug tonight. I also disconnected a hose from the gold regulator on the drivers side fender and tried to bleed some old gas. I thought that once you turned the key on that the fuel would start pouring out becuase of the pump but no luck. There must be a pressure switch that turns off the pump?

    I decided to try and crank after I did this and guess what? It is trying to start (at least sounds like one cylinder is hitting). I am hoping that when all of the plugs are replaced the car will start and run.

    Any members in the Memphis area want to make some money changing plugs

  7. #27
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    00 LS1, WS6, V8 Gremlin
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    TR-6 will be fine for now but too hot in the long run. TR-5 would be better.

    Personally considering what you've got I'd buy a set of Autolite 104 and gap them around 0.045

  8. #28
    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    Where ya live at? PM me. I'll see what I can do to help ya. And I jyust noticed the bellhousing statement ya made. Did ya check the oil make sure its all oil?

  9. #29
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    sounds like you're making a little progress. Now get all of those plugs changed and fire that thing up. The plugs aren't that hard of a job to do. The only bad plug is the #8 and if you remove the 2 back most coil packs on that side it's much much easier to get at. Use a 3" extension with a swivel and you'll have it out in no time. Do the #8 plug first and get it out of the way then the other 7 plugs will seem like they change themselves.

    I'll be down that way next month but not quite to Memphis. I'll be just over the Missouri border in a town called Caruthersville. That's where I grew up and will be going home to visit my mom.

  10. #30
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    black
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    slims00ls1z28-Yes I checked all the fluids and they look good.

    0rion-My wife actually volunteered to help with the plug change. Her hands are a lot smaller so hopefully we can get all of them done. I have to go out of town for business but have Sunday and Monday off. Hopefully I can get the plugs changed then. If things are really tough I am going to buy that socket that Summit sells for these cars.

  11. #31
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    you won't need that. It's not as bad as it looks. Once you get going and get #8 done it's all downhill from there. I remember the first time I changed mine I spent most of the time cussing. After you do it the first time or two it gets much easier.

  12. #32
    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    I found the number 8 easier to do with a 3/4 socket used on a std spark plug socket than using extensions. Let me know I am in the Memphis area (somerville) and if need I'll borrow brothers diagnostic scanner (not code reader actual scanner). I'm off on monday and tuesday as well.

  13. #33
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    black
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    I am back in town. Going to try and work on the car today some. Will send an update later on.

    slims00ls1z28 - it is a small world. I am in lakeland, my wife works at the hospital in sommerville.

  14. #34
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    I was able to do all the plugs on the drivers side and got the front one on the passenger side but decided to take a break and save the last three for later this afternoon.

    The car will now start and run (roughly) but produces a great deal of black smoke and wants to rev up high (2500-3500 RPM or so). When I press the gas pedal the engine speed actually goes down

    The PCM is now setting some codes too.

    P0108 - Map or Baro Pressure Signal High
    P0300 - Random Cyl Misfire
    P0449 - Evap System Vent Control Low
    P0748 - Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical

    After finishing the plugs what do you think my next step should be? . I am thinking that one/all of the injectors may be stuck open or maybe a MAF issue? The injectors in the car are part # 280-150-559 which I think is a 38.5# injector.

  15. #35
    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    Get it tuned after you do the plugs sounds like something is off. Given that you are boosted I'd go speed density and eliminate the MAF anyway like most boosted people I know. If you want it tuned Extreme is the best place around here 250$ for the credit then 100$ an hour after that and they are no more than 20 minutes from your Lakeland. Black smoke is gas probably running real rich. Don't run it if you think the injectors are dumping too much you could end up washing the bearings. I know a guy with an incon TT kit who did that. Get it tuned after the plugs and that should eliminate most of the codes you posted.

    Heh I drive through Lakeland everyday on way to work so ya should be easy should you need some help lemme know.

  16. #36
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    I have never heard of extreme. Do you mean xtreme auto on hwy 64 or ?

  17. #37
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    Get ALL the plugs in it and reset the PCM, the codes might go away.

  18. #38
    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    Ya Xtreme auto on 64 close to the Wolfchase. They do great work with LS1's

  19. #39
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    sounds to me like you need to finish the plug install and see if that takes care of p0300 which I bet it will. Also wondering if you have a broken wire or something else wrong with your map sensor( on the rear of the intake) and that's setting the p0108. The evap I wouldn't even bother with until you get some of the other stuff taken care of first. The p0748 is a code for the pressure control solenoid in the tranny. The tranny could have a vacuum modulator on it and that's why it's throwing the code or the solenoid is bad.
    I would wonder on the condition of your O2 sensors if the plugs were that fouled. I bet the O2's are too. The O2's wouldn't be effecting your cold start though because they won't start controlling fuel until you go to closed loop. I would first get those plugs finished and clear the codes and see what pops back up when you start it again. The p0748 won't set the light but the p0108 will and that's the first one I would tackle along with those O2's. Check the wires to the map sensor and look for any major vacuum leaks. I'm not familiar with s/c cars so it could be related to that but I would look at wiring and what not first. If the car set that long a critter could've munched on the wires or something. Do you have a scanner that will log your map reading to see exactly what it's doing?

  20. #40
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    I have a snap-on MT2500 but have never used any advanced functions on it (mainly just used it to read and clear codes). The scanner can do some logging I think but I have never used it. I will check the wires near the rear of the engine to see what I can find.

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