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Torque Converter made my car slower!!!!

This is a discussion on Torque Converter made my car slower!!!! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I installed a Yank SS3200 and at 60 mph to 110 mph I tried and raced my buddy before the ...

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Torque Converter made my car slower!!!!

    I installed a Yank SS3200 and at 60 mph to 110 mph I tried and raced my buddy before the converter and I raced him after the converter and before I had my TC installed I had him by 4 lenghts and now I can't pull him we stayed side by side until 80 mph where I pulled him by 1/3 of a car I am really disapointed that I spent $1300 to get my car to go slower and yes I had a tune done by Frost and he does know what he's doing so It seems like it's going to be a cut my lossed scenario and go back to the stock set up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I should of followed my 1st thought and go with headers and gears :-(

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    Member jsmith564`'s Avatar
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    trans tune?

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    something isn't right there.......not sure what you have going on but the stall should pick up ~.5 in the quarter and should really shine on a roll race. Does the car feel like it's getting up into the powerband and staying there through shifts? Your rpm's should jump instantly when you tag it and they should stay there even through shifts. If you hold your foot on the brake and give the car gas what rpm does it want to either start pushing through the brakes or spinning the tires? Do you have any way of logging the car?

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Something else is going on with it.

    Did you have your car at the track before and after the change?? To be honest, a street race isn't an accurate way to judge.
    Better off at the track where you can measure the changes at all increments down the track, including MPH which would be the tell tale as to how efficient it is working.

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    I agree with Orion somethings not right at all. Is your car shifting too early? That convertor should have walked away from your buddy. He hasn't fixed his car up on you and playing possum is he?
    TSP 347 SB, TSP Stage 2.5 PRC LS6, TSP MS4, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E, Yank PT4000, 4.11s, Fast 90/90, FTRA Cold air intake+all the free mods, Dynatech Supermaxx Exaust System, DMH Cutouts, Hooker Catback/FTRA Tips. Tuned by RPM/Garner NC. 11.28@119

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    can u get some vids of how the car is driving maybe then we can better diagnose whats going on

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Ok

    No my buddy hasn't changed anything and it's my old car that I sold to him We tried 5 times and it's side by side roll If I leave 1st i pull a little more maybe 1 car but I use to pull hader at a roll with the stock converter

    My Rpm drops to 4000rpm when it shifts Orion

    I tell you my car was working like crazy I have 35000 miles and as soon as I installed the converter it seems and feels slower

    To answer your question Orion foot braking it about 2600 to 2700rpm as the most and if I leave at 35mph it snaps me in my seat but not more than it did before the converter if it does not a whole lot more as soon as I pass 45 mph it's not great

    Before the converter at 60 mph it would kick me back in my seat but i've been saying from the beginning that I have a bad converter as you know but again Yank tells me it's the tune I don't believe It
    Frost is nice enough to re do it I'm sending the pcm to him on Tuesday and the track opens in 2 weeks so Hopefully I'll have it back by then I'm 5days shipping away from him 1 way. Steve is amazing at what he does I know that much ...

    I was in a truck with a Yank SS3200 with a 6l built with shift kit and Corvette Servo and WOW that freaking worked
    Last edited by Durango; 04-22-2011 at 06:26 PM.

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    can u get some vids of how the car is driving maybe then we can better diagnose whats going on
    I'll have to get that done but I'm sending my PCM to Steve Williams Tuesday he is taking the PWM off and increasing my mph a bit before shifting I hope that there's something wrong now but my feeling is that Yank will not do much he is saying that it's my tranny My car worked like a bat out of hell before the stall and now my tranny is bad I don't think so....
    Last edited by Durango; 04-22-2011 at 06:27 PM.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    when you're in the upper speeds and get into it does it feel like it's not downshifting all the way to 2nd or something? That's the only thing I can think of that would do what you're describing. That thing should be screaming with that stall. It sounds like it's stalling like it should on the foot brake and your shift rpm's sound about right. Has to be something else. A stall either works or it doesn't......there's really no in between there. If it's stalling up on the foot brake and launching good and all that then my guess would be the stall is fine.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    when you're in the upper speeds and get into it does it feel like it's not downshifting all the way to 2nd or something? That's the only thing I can think of that would do what you're describing. That thing should be screaming with that stall. It sounds like it's stalling like it should on the foot brake and your shift rpm's sound about right. Has to be something else. A stall either works or it doesn't......there's really no in between there. If it's stalling up on the foot brake and launching good and all that then my guess would be the stall is fine.
    Ya I agree either it works or it doesnt, Orion brings up a good point the tranny may not be downshifting into the correct gear or instead of downing shift and disengaging lock up it may b e staying in lockup which could cause it not to flash correctly on the downshift.

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    Ya I agree either it works or it doesnt, Orion brings up a good point the tranny may not be downshifting into the correct gear or instead of downing shift and disengaging lock up it may b e staying in lockup which could cause it not to flash correctly on the downshift.
    The RPM is going up when I jam it to the floor but it doesn't give me that kick like it did Like you said I'll video tape it and send you a link what is your email guys???

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Something else is going on with it.

    Did you have your car at the track before and after the change?? To be honest, a street race isn't an accurate way to judge.
    Better off at the track where you can measure the changes at all increments down the track, including MPH which would be the tell tale as to how efficient it is working.
    I'm trying to go to the track the 1st Saturday in May I think that's May 7th so we will see I ran a 13.4 with it that was my best time That was with a cat back and a lid using a SuperChip programmer
    Last edited by Durango; 04-22-2011 at 06:29 PM.

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Good point

    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    Ya I agree either it works or it doesnt, Orion brings up a good point the tranny may not be downshifting into the correct gear or instead of downing shift and disengaging lock up it may b e staying in lockup which could cause it not to flash correctly on the downshift.
    What would cause it to do that????? Tuning???

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    Member 79Firebird_99TA's Avatar
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    I'm following your updates, Durango as it sounds as though you and I have similar - if not the same problem going on. I'll be curious to see what happens when you get your computer back. I've got three new variables: rebuilt tranny, CircleD 3200 stall and tune. I never hammered it before the tune so I don't know. Do you have any vibration going on when you feel that loss of power at WOT and high rpm? Just curious ... because I do.

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 79Firebird_99TA View Post
    I'm following your updates, Durango as it sounds as though you and I have similar - if not the same problem going on. I'll be curious to see what happens when you get your computer back. I've got three new variables: rebuilt tranny, CircleD 3200 stall and tune. I never hammered it before the tune so I don't know. Do you have any vibration going on when you feel that loss of power at WOT and high rpm? Just curious ... because I do.
    No vibrations here I get a chatter at 45mph to 48mph at low rpm and before the converter I had a major seat of the pants pull at 60mph now I don't and I never drove the car without a tune plus I did 200 miles before putting the pedal to the medal I wasn't even sure at that point if it made a difference between stock and a converter The only thing I noticed is that my dead spot is higher now it's after 70km/h or 42mph when before it was after 35mph but that could be the tune

    Yank just told me that I could send them the converter back they would cut it in 1/2 check it and fixe if need be and send it back but I'm going to check everything I can 1st but I'm thinking of taking it out and going back to stock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:-((((((( Mine still works pretty good but I have no gain at 35mph when you put it to the floor from when I had a stock converter and less accelaration at 60mph and that was my best snap
    when I hit the gas at those speeds

    Did you get your tranny rebuilt and you have a Circle D converter now you say
    Last edited by Durango; 04-23-2011 at 12:57 PM.

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    Member 79Firebird_99TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Durango View Post
    Did you get your tranny rebuilt and you have a Circle D converter now you say
    Yes ... all at the same time.

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    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Durango View Post
    I installed a Yank SS3200 and at 60 mph to 110 mph I tried and raced my buddy before the converter and I raced him after the converter and before I had my TC installed I had him by 4 lenghts and now I can't pull him we stayed side by side until 80 mph where I pulled him by 1/3 of a car I am really disapointed that I spent $1300 to get my car to go slower and yes I had a tune done by Frost and he does know what he's doing so It seems like it's going to be a cut my lossed scenario and go back to the stock set up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I should of followed my 1st thought and go with headers and gears :-(
    Between 60 mph to 110 mph, the TC is a non issue, I am assuming you purchased a "lock up" converter, EVEN WITHOUT A TUNE the converter should be locked in a 1:1 ratio with the transmission.

    I have a old Y3000 2.2 STR Yank converter, and the seat of the pants difference is when the coverter is "unlocked" once lock up occurs (43 mph for me), it is the same feeling as when I had the stock door stop installed.

    SteveC
    Last edited by SteveC; 04-24-2011 at 06:08 AM.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveC View Post
    Between 60 mph to 110 mph, the TC is a non issue, I am assuming you purchased a "lock up" converter, EVEN WITHOUT A TUNE the converter should be locked in a 1:1 ratio with the transmission.

    I have a old Y3000 2.2 STR Yank converter, and the seat of the pants difference is when the coverter is "unlocked" once lock up occurs (43 mph for me), it is the same feeling as when I had the stock door stop installed.

    SteveC
    converter will unlock at WOT though.....

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    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    converter will unlock at WOT though.....
    I agree, however does it stay unlocked @ speeds 60 mph +, and if so, how much damage does it do when exceeding just say 90 mph?

    I would think it would generate tremendous amounts of heat, trans cooler or not.

    SteveC

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    It doesn't do any damage per say. It just generates heat. Slippage on top end usually isn't as bad as a standing start. Generally engines don't make as much torque up that high in the power band so you aren't pushing through the converter as much.
    Most decent converters have 3-4% slipppage on top end depending on how they are made. A good converter won't give up as much as say,,,a poorly built converter.
    It's nothing to worry about as far as a damage standpoint so long as you have a sufficient cooler. Loose converters are just meant for a quarter mile at a time anyway.

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