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torque arm problem?....

This is a discussion on torque arm problem?.... within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; is it normal to hear a thud on the floorboard after a tunnel mounted torque arm setup is installed? it ...

  1. #1
    nut butter Poppn's Avatar
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    torque arm problem?....

    is it normal to hear a thud on the floorboard after a tunnel mounted torque arm setup is installed?

    it only seems to happen on DEceleration (such as jumping on the gas quickly in 1st gear and letting off) and coming to a complete stop.

    also, 9 out of 10 bumps i hit, it makes the thud sound also (i figured this is normal)

    checked all bushings, mounts, bolts and nuts and have just about given up. i don't mind the sound so long as there isn't anything seriously wrong (i already have a poly trans mount and open cutout )

  2. #2
    Spohn torque arm? If so all the hardware that attach the arm to the tunnel brace must be torqued beyond belief. Get the biggest breaker bar you can find and start hanging on it.

  3. #3
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    loose tranny mount???

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    Member 99yellowz28's Avatar
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    i have umi and i have the same sound and i called them and they said it was normal cuz of weight transfer but idk if they were blowin smoke up my ass

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    how big are the tranny cross member bolts......how big are the center cross member bolts.....what kind of TA mount set up do you want? i am going with a Tranny TA relocation mount

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    Member 99yellowz28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjsingle1 View Post
    how big are the tranny cross member bolts......how big are the center cross member bolts.....what kind of TA mount set up do you want? i am going with a Tranny TA relocation mount
    a tunnel mount ta is relocated off the tranny, and where the tunel mount bolts to it uses the factory bolts or the supplied ones there not that big. also if tou hearing a thud make sure you dont have the bolts in backwards on where the ta swivels on the bracket bolted to the diff you have to have the nut part facing the diff and the bolt end facing the body otherwise the threded part of the bolt that gose past the nut will rub the body during take off, hard shifts or heavy acceration
    Last edited by 99yellowz28; 06-03-2010 at 06:25 AM.

  7. #7
    Member 99yellowz28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28 View Post
    Spohn torque arm? If so all the hardware that attach the arm to the tunnel brace must be torqued beyond belief. Get the biggest breaker bar you can find and start hanging on it.
    are you sayin torque past specs? if so you dont want to do that, you want your suspension to move freely

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by 99z-28 View Post
    are you sayin torque past specs? if so you dont want to do that, you want your suspension to move freely
    The OP never stated what brand and type. Most have heim joints (rod ends). You can tighten them all you want, it won't affect their opertion. Undertorquing them will cause this noise. Seen it and fixed it on numerous cars, including my own.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    If you have a torque arm that runs in the tunnel it is VERY common to have clearance issues with the underside. Many of us have "created" our own clearance by using a hammer and massaging the areas where clearance is minimal to alleviate this.

    PS - I have the BMR Trak Pak.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by 99z-28 View Post
    i have umi and i have the same sound and i called them and they said it was normal cuz of weight transfer but idk if they were blowin smoke up my ass
    No, it is common to receive a little more noise with this set up. The tunnel mounted torque arms bolt right under where you sit and they attach to the floor, basically directly under your butt. Movement of the torque arm is going to be more noticeable since the sound isn't as isolated like the factory torque arm is.

    Usually a "thud" is from the front mounting bolts at the pivot plates not being tight enough. These bolts are hard to tighten because of there location and because we use a conical lock nut on them. With the conical lock nut the nut can appear to be tight but in reality it isn't tight enough to compress the bushing. Try tightening these bolts more, as tight as you can possible get them, I am sure this will help the issue quite a bit. I personally run the tunnel mounted arm on my car and once set up right it is noise free.

    Also look at the tunnel area in the rear end. The top of the torque arm could be hitting the floor during acceleration. If this is the case some clearancing with a hammer will cure this issue

    Hope that helps,
    Ryan

  11. #11
    Member 99yellowz28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UMI Performance View Post
    No, it is common to receive a little more noise with this set up. The tunnel mounted torque arms bolt right under where you sit and they attach to the floor, basically directly under your butt. Movement of the torque arm is going to be more noticeable since the sound isn't as isolated like the factory torque arm is.

    Usually a "thud" is from the front mounting bolts at the pivot plates not being tight enough. These bolts are hard to tighten because of there location and because we use a conical lock nut on them. With the conical lock nut the nut can appear to be tight but in reality it isn't tight enough to compress the bushing. Try tightening these bolts more, as tight as you can possible get them, I am sure this will help the issue quite a bit. I personally run the tunnel mounted arm on my car and once set up right it is noise free.

    Also look at the tunnel area in the rear end. The top of the torque arm could be hitting the floor during acceleration. If this is the case some clearancing with a hammer will cure this issue

    Hope that helps,
    Ryan
    so should you tighten them up past what umi says to yorque them at because thats what i did

  12. #12
    Hello
    If you torque the hardware over its fine! The only time there is a possible issue is when they are not to specs. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
    Thanks
    Brad

  13. #13
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    As an engineer, I would have to disagree with that just a smidge
    Every bolt size has a specific torque spec based on grade and thread type (coarse or fine) for a reason. You can over-torque by a certain % and be OK. If you torque it too much, you pre-load the bolt too much which can fail the bolt.

    I would agree that over-torquing a bolt a little is a hell of a lot better than not having enough torque though.

  14. #14
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Yes it's normal and yes I hear it all the time on the 02.

    Consider it part of the price you pay for having better than stock parts.
    67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...

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    Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!

  15. #15
    Member 99yellowz28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UMI Sales View Post
    Hello
    If you torque the hardware over its fine! The only time there is a possible issue is when they are not to specs. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
    Thanks
    Brad
    ok thanks ill give it a try next time i got it in the air. Also since it was lowered with eibach pro kit do i align with the factory specs? and what should the pinion angle be?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99z-28 View Post
    ok thanks ill give it a try next time i got it in the air. Also since it was lowered with eibach pro kit do i align with the factory specs? and what should the pinion angle be?
    -2 degrees

  17. #17
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    Since we brought this thread back to life...

    I have just an occasional clunk which I attribute to the shoulders on the front bolts being smaller in diameter than the holes in the mounting plates. Even torqued there is going to be some movement there under load. I do have a resonance from the Moser 12 bolt at 1,500 rpm that is quite loud. Above and below this rpm the rear is only very slightly above the stock noise level. I may try to cushion the tunnel brace in an attempt to alleviate this.

  18. #18
    Member 99yellowz28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    -2 degrees
    thanks, factory align specs ok when lowered?

  19. #19
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    You need an alignment. Not sure on what specs though.

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