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Throttle response problems

This is a discussion on Throttle response problems within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hi All I just baught a 2002 WS6 with only 12,000 mi on it. It has the 6 speed and ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member Dave Stubbs's Avatar
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    Throttle response problems

    Hi All
    I just baught a 2002 WS6 with only 12,000 mi on it. It has the 6 speed and runs Ok. When I rev over 3500 (in gear) and go to shift the engine seems to hang at about 2500 for a couple of seconds. When downshifting, the car decelerates to around 2500 and then holds and will increase rpm if I'm going down even a slight hill. When I first got the I didn't really get on it so I didn't notice the problem. But its a big problem when i get it up to 4500-5000 range I don't even need to press the gas shifting into the next gear. On the same note I feel what only can be descirbed as a powerband (like a 2 stroke) at around 3500 car starts pulling hard. It seems like a timing problem. I reset the computer by pulling the fuses and the car wouldn't idle at first and I had to give it gas to keep it alive. This settled out and I took it for a spin and had all this low end power (want that back). As I drove it slowly went back to the previous problem. I have 3 years left on my warranty so hopefully the problem will be coverd. I've taken it to the dealer once but I saw the mechanic take a screwdriver and a hammer to my headlight to bend a peice of metal and took my keys and left. I would just like some ideas of what the problem might be.

    Thanks in advance,Dave Stubbs

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    We'll be back... GatorSS's Avatar
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    Clean the MAF sensor wires with some non-residue electrical cleaner.

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    Junior Member Dave Stubbs's Avatar
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    Thanks I'll try tommorw, You are talking about both the sensor plug and the leads in the MAF?

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    Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    Cleaning the MAF leads might help. Changing the fuel filter might help too. Basically, make sure you keep up the general maintenance. Chances are though, it's something other than a general maintenance issue if you ask me.

    What mods do you have (if any)?

    Anything in the motor ever been removed (intake, throttle body, etc.)?

    Any unmetered air entering or vacuum leak can cause the motor to idle unusually. The other possibility is the IAC valve. If you can find someone with a scanner, have them read your IAC counts. You may need to adjust your throttle body set screw to bring them in line. They should be at roughly 60~70 steps at a warm idle. If they read less than this, there may not be enough play in the IAC to close off excessive airflow to the motor, which would cause rpms to increase.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Stubbs View Post
    Hi All
    I just baught a 2002 WS6 with only 12,000 mi on it. It has the 6 speed and runs Ok. When I rev over 3500 (in gear) and go to shift the engine seems to hang at about 2500 for a couple of seconds. When downshifting, the car decelerates to around 2500 and then holds and will increase rpm if I'm going down even a slight hill. When I first got the I didn't really get on it so I didn't notice the problem. But its a big problem when i get it up to 4500-5000 range I don't even need to press the gas shifting into the next gear. On the same note I feel what only can be descirbed as a powerband (like a 2 stroke) at around 3500 car starts pulling hard. It seems like a timing problem. I reset the computer by pulling the fuses and the car wouldn't idle at first and I had to give it gas to keep it alive. This settled out and I took it for a spin and had all this low end power (want that back). As I drove it slowly went back to the previous problem. I have 3 years left on my warranty so hopefully the problem will be coverd. I've taken it to the dealer once but I saw the mechanic take a screwdriver and a hammer to my headlight to bend a peice of metal and took my keys and left. I would just like some ideas of what the problem might be.

    Thanks in advance,Dave Stubbs
    I know what you mean about the 3500 RPM deal. I read somewhere that the '02 models all seem to do this. Mine surely does. It's like a small turbo kicks in. I had someone else tell me that it has something to do with traction control and the way the intake and cam are designed but I don't know for sure.

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    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Stubbs View Post
    Thanks I'll try tommorw, You are talking about both the sensor plug and the leads in the MAF?
    No.....He's talking about the the wires INSIDE the MAF

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    We'll be back... GatorSS's Avatar
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    Yes, the sensor wires are inside the MAF, right in the middle of the air stream.

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    Junior Member Dave Stubbs's Avatar
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    Finally got time to pull and clean my MAF to my surprise no screen the previous owner must have removed it. I've read some place the screen directs air to the sensor. Not sure though. Need to hookup with computer to take a look at the tables. Tryed cleanning with electric spray cleaner (non residue) with no succes.

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    Senior Member 02z28ls1's Avatar
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    Agreed that the engine will behave alittle unpredictable on downshifts, but the powerband shouldn't be all coming in at 3,000. Should be plenty of torque down low-of course the power is greater at higher rpm, but there is a smooth transition in my 02. But the downshift thing is a little wierd and not at all what you are used to if you are driving other stickshift cars. My understanding is that the computer will shut off fuel flow in certain situations where it isn't necessary for engine function. So as you downshift the engine braking feel changes unexpectantly at it feels as if the engine is accelerating, when it is merely not providing a braking effect like you would expect. I've learned not to expect the downshift to be predictable and rely on my brakes instead. In other words -what you are experiencing seems to be the normal running characteristics of the 02 LS-1 on downshift.

  10. #10
    Junior Member Dave Stubbs's Avatar
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    Thanks for all your hlep. It was indeed my MAF. I read in a differnt post you can remove the connector plug from the MAF and the computer will switch to a secondary vacuum system. The differance was night and day. Feels like at least 30% more power. The engine dropped RPM in a nice even pace with no hesitaion. I don't know if it had to do with the screen being removed or a faulty resistor in the sensor or oil from the K&N filter getting on the sensor or all of the above. I understand the secondary system is only on Late model LS1 cars. I picked up a remanufactured MAF at Kragen for 130.00 and my car runs great. Thanks again for all your help.

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