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Is there water in my motor? Struggles above 4000 rpm.

This is a discussion on Is there water in my motor? Struggles above 4000 rpm. within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I just read thru all the advice, and I agree it sounds like you got a coil pack/wire connection wet. ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    I just read thru all the advice, and I agree it sounds like you got a coil pack/wire connection wet. Normally they will dry ok, but sometimes if something was about to go bad, the water helped it to fail.

    And I've been an ASE Master/L1 certified tech for a long time, I can tell you that "mechanic" who said water gets into the cylinder and the only way to get rid of it is to take the heads off, has no clue. He nees some edumacation.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    I just read thru all the advice, and I agree it sounds like you got a coil pack/wire connection wet. Normally they will dry ok, but sometimes if something was about to go bad, the water helped it to fail.

    And I've been an ASE Master/L1 certified tech for a long time, I can tell you that "mechanic" who said water gets into the cylinder and the only way to get rid of it is to take the heads off, has no clue. He nees some edumacation.
    :this:

    The "mechanic" was trying to rip this person off imho..

  3. #23
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    :this:

    The "mechanic" was trying to rip this person off imho..
    This is why I always check with fellow enthusiasts/owners before I pay anyone to touch my car. My last car I had serviced at the dealer and they would sabotage something each time they "fixed" my original problem. No more "reputable" shops for this guy... at least not for simple things that can be fixed with a wrench.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    This is why I always check with fellow enthusiasts/owners before I pay anyone to touch my car. My last car I had serviced at the dealer and they would sabotage something each time they "fixed" my original problem. No more "reputable" shops for this guy... at least not for simple things that can be fixed with a wrench.
    Agreed. Is hard to trust people this days. Especially if you had a bad experience.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    The best way to find a good tech is to ask local people who they trust. Could be a guy who owns a local place, or at a tire dealer who does diag work, or even a dealership.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    So, I'm reading up on the ignition system in my Haynes manual... I also looked under the hood of my car.

    This is going to be difficult. The job itself should be easy enough, but locating and identifying all the parts is going to be a challenge.

    Is there any place I can find a list of all the tools and other equipment I will need in order to do the job? I'm always looking for opportunities to build up my tool collection.

    Too Fast: I had been relying on my friends and family for a while who have a lot of knowledge and competence in these things, but now, two of them are deployed and the other may be moving permanently out of state... So far, I've learned some good stuff from them. They've guided me through installing a few mods and change out simple parts
    Last edited by Naaman; 01-24-2011 at 11:36 AM.

  7. #27
    long and strong Willfully Armed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    I spoke to a local mechanic and he said that it's possible that water might have gotten in the combustion chamber, which acts like a "pressure cooker" and prevents the water from flowing out of the motor, just vaporizing and consolidating within the cylinder(s) forever until you take of the heads and dry it out.
    Thats positively the most ignorant thing ive ever heard come from a grease monkey.

    You ought to drag him into the street and hit him in the face repeatedly with a 1/2" break over bar.

  8. #28
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Spark plugs are easy to change except the #8 plug. That is the one on the passenger side, rear of the engine. There are several ways to get at it. Take the coils off the top and try to get it from that angle. Before I got LT Headers I would jack the car up on that side, move the starter and go up from the bottom. No need to move the starter, but made it easier by adding more room.


    FOR BEGINNERS DO ONE PLUG AND WIRE AT A TIME!!!

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    O U 8 1 2 Spaz's Avatar
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    ever had the fuel filter changed???

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaz View Post
    ever had the fuel filter changed???
    Yes. I changed it myself (with buddy's help) about 1000 miles ago. Woke up a couple horsepower (just enough to notice).

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    So, I'm reading up on the ignition system in my Haynes manual... I also looked under the hood of my car.

    This is going to be difficult. The job itself should be easy enough, but locating and identifying all the parts is going to be a challenge.

    Is there any place I can find a list of all the tools and other equipment I will need in order to do the job? I'm always looking for opportunities to build up my tool collection.

    Too Fast: I had been relying on my friends and family for a while who have a lot of knowledge and competence in these things, but now, two of them are deployed and the other may be moving permanently out of state... So far, I've learned some good stuff from them. They've guided me through installing a few mods and change out simple parts
    That's why the real good techs make $$$. They've been around the sun a few times and have seen many things. Usually once the problem is actually found, it doesn't take much time to replace the faulty part.

  12. #32
    dbl clutch'n like i shld WICKEDLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Spark plugs are easy to change except the #8 plug. That is the one on the passenger side, rear of the engine. There are several ways to get at it. Take the coils off the top and try to get it from that angle. Before I got LT Headers I would jack the car up on that side, move the starter and go up from the bottom. No need to move the starter, but made it easier by adding more room.


    FOR BEGINNERS DO ONE PLUG AND WIRE AT A TIME!!!
    if your stupid enough not to know that each coil has a plug right under it, then you need to stay the hell away from cars

    to OP: i changed my #8 plug from under the car (on a lift too thou) and you can slide your arm between the cat. and the block just enough to get to the plug. Just make sure that it has been sitting for a few hours so that the cat. will be cool cause they hold heat like no other.


    also if your a bigger guy the method above wont work. (i have pretty small arms so i can squeeze in between there

  13. #33
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WICKEDLS1 View Post
    if your stupid enough not to know that each coil has a plug right under it, then you need to stay the hell away from cars

    to OP: i changed my #8 plug from under the car (on a lift too thou) and you can slide your arm between the cat. and the block just enough to get to the plug. Just make sure that it has been sitting for a few hours so that the cat. will be cool cause they hold heat like no other.


    also if your a bigger guy the method above wont work. (i have pretty small arms so i can squeeze in between there
    Well, I've got ramps so I can just drive it up on the ramps and as a previous poster indicated, I may have to move the starter... hopefully not, though.

  14. #34
    dbl clutch'n like i shld WICKEDLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Well, I've got ramps so I can just drive it up on the ramps and as a previous poster indicated, I may have to move the starter... hopefully not, though.
    true i was going to before i decided to squeeze my arm in there

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    When you do the MSD wires they click on with 1 click on the sparkplug, but I believe they click twice before they are seated correctly on the coils. I may have it backwards. I'm sure someone can verify which ways right.
    TSP 347 SB, TSP Stage 2.5 PRC LS6, TSP MS4, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E, Yank PT4000, 4.11s, Fast 90/90, FTRA Cold air intake+all the free mods, Dynatech Supermaxx Exaust System, DMH Cutouts, Hooker Catback/FTRA Tips. Tuned by RPM/Garner NC. 11.28@119

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    Quote Originally Posted by PFM View Post
    When you do the MSD wires they click on with 1 click on the sparkplug, but I believe they click twice before they are seated correctly on the coils. I may have it backwards. I'm sure someone can verify which ways right.
    your right twice on coils and once on plugs

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    that mechanic needs to be SLAPPED

  18. #38
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Alright, so... looking at ignition coils, they run pretty expensive. So far, I've only found the MSD Blaster coils. They sell a set of 8 for $630. I also found an OEM replacement for $105 (just 1 coil). I'm sure some more searching will yield better prices, but can anyone chime in on the value of upgraded coils?

    I've looked around on these forums and found that less ohms yields "more horsepower" since a stronger spark burns more fuel (or, burns it more "efficiently").

    I'm taking my car today to have it scanned. If it turns out that the problem is in the coil(s), can I drive the car indefinitely until I can afford to replace them or until they just go completely bad? Or am I doing damage by letting it sit?

    Also, last time I tried to accelerate beyond 4000 rpm, I gave it three tries, and during the third run, my SES light came on. I drove the car as normal for two days (daily commute, no hard acceleration), and the SES light is now off. Obviously, the computer thinks that the problem was just a fluke, but even after the light went off, I tried going up to 4000 and the problem is still there.

    Also, just wanted to say, it's great to have a community resource that enjoys talking shop and helping with these kinds of things. Thanks for all the input so far. Tremendous help.

  19. #39
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Alright, so... looking at ignition coils, they run pretty expensive. So far, I've only found the MSD Blaster coils. They sell a set of 8 for $630. I also found an OEM replacement for $105 (just 1 coil). I'm sure some more searching will yield better prices, but can anyone chime in on the value of upgraded coils?

    Sure...they are red.

    I've looked around on these forums and found that less ohms yields "more horsepower" since a stronger spark burns more fuel (or, burns it more "efficiently").

    Bullshit in the real world. In a lab yes.....on the street the delta is so miniscule you will not even notice.

    I'm taking my car today to have it scanned. If it turns out that the problem is in the coil(s), can I drive the car indefinitely until I can afford to replace them or until they just go completely bad? Or am I doing damage by letting it sit?

    You'll be fouling plug(s) and throwing codes. An outside chance at WOT you could bend/throw a rod.......

    Also, last time I tried to accelerate beyond 4000 rpm, I gave it three tries, and during the third run, my SES light came on. I drove the car as normal for two days (daily commute, no hard acceleration), and the SES light is now off. Obviously, the computer thinks that the problem was just a fluke, but even after the light went off, I tried going up to 4000 and the problem is still there.

    Called "floating"...probably multiple misfires.

    Also, just wanted to say, it's great to have a community resource that enjoys talking shop and helping with these kinds of things. Thanks for all the input so far. Tremendous help.
    We'll be here all week.

  20. #40
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Great. Is this the type of problem that, even if the water dries up or is removed, will persist? In theory, if the moisture goes away, does the problem also? Or is the damage done whether the moisture remains or not.

    I had the idea of maybe running a blow dryer in the vicinity of the coils and wires... wishful thinking?

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