Strut Tower Brace Install

**Spikito** · 02-21-2008, 09:22 PM

So how do i do it?

i feel like if i just take those two nuts off, that side of my cars gonna fall down, mines a 2 point hook up.

Should i lift my car, to take weight off the springs? or can it be done sitting? i dont know, also, does anyone know a good way to remove my bumper.

Im doing a pretty hardcore makeover during spring break, gotta lot of questions

**Demon_Z28** · 02-21-2008, 09:49 PM

just make sure your on a level surface, unbolt, place strut bar on, bolt back on with the proper torque specs

**0rion** · 02-21-2008, 10:17 PM

good luck on that drivers side inside bolt, that things a pain in the ass. That's the number one reason I'm leaving my stb off the car from now on. I tear it apart to often to have to fight that bolt on and off every time.

**Demon_Z28** · 02-21-2008, 10:19 PM

use a 3/8ths drive with an extention and its not an issue...if it is, then there is something wrong...

**Spikito** · 02-21-2008, 10:24 PM

maybe thats an issue on the V8's, lol, i havent looked close but both sides seem to be easily accessible, but thanks for the warning, ill make sure and watch out for that.

what kind of torque specs are we talking about, does anyone know a particular number, im asking because i dont have a wrench, i was planning on "as tight as i can" working

**0rion** · 02-21-2008, 10:25 PM

the slp brace on that inside bolt there really isn't room to get a socket in there.

**Demon_Z28** · 02-21-2008, 10:27 PM

thin wall socket...I dont know what your tripping about, I didnt have any issues, moved the brake lines over a little to wedge the socket on there and tightened it up

**0rion** · 02-21-2008, 10:31 PM

still a pain in the ass for me. You may be able to break it loose with a socket but after the nut makes a few passes up there isn't room between the nut and the bottom of the brace itself. I usually end up using a gear wrench, just a pain to deal with. Not bad if you only do it once but I've had it off 3-4 times the last year and a half or so.

**Spikito** · 02-21-2008, 10:34 PM

oh, you mean getting the bolt on and off once the brace is attached? yeah, that might be a problem

**Demon_Z28** · 02-21-2008, 10:35 PM

well anyways, I just read it, its suppose to be 32 Foot pounds of torque for my UMI strut bar. And like I said, I didnt have an issue, but who knows maybe you will.

**ghettosled** · 02-23-2008, 06:46 PM

mine went on without a hitch. i dont think it even took ten minutes.

**Raptor_WS6** · 02-23-2008, 11:41 PM

how much do these braces run btw

**Spikito** · 02-24-2008, 03:56 PM

i paid $75 for mine on ebay, it just connects the two strut towers, they make 3 points that also attaches to the firewall, and of course the name brand ones are the most expensive, hotchkis makes one that runs about $175 i think

**CJREX** · 02-24-2008, 03:59 PM

I remember reading on here that the strut braces are primarily eye candy?

Tests were run and there was virtually no deflection of the shock towers in cornering.

Does anyone have a link to this test or info?

**Spikito** · 02-24-2008, 04:23 PM

so youre saying they do help, or not?

**Squirly013** · 02-24-2008, 04:59 PM

Originally Posted by CJREX

I remember reading on here that the strut braces are primarily eye candy?

Tests were run and there was virtually no deflection of the shock towers in cornering.

Does anyone have a link to this test or info?

Non-adjustable braces don't really do a whole lot. I'm sure there is slightly less body roll then no brace, but an adjustable brace makes the car a whole lot stiffer. Non-adjustable just kind of "tie things together" an adjustable unit, once installed, can be lengthened to put pressure from one side to the other. It's just like having another sway-bar.