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Strokers

This is a discussion on Strokers within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by ntimid8r Strokers are going to give you more cubic inch (more air to breath) but in some ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by ntimid8r View Post
    Strokers are going to give you more cubic inch (more air to breath) but in some cases have put too much stress on the wrist pins and cause early failure. I've got less than 3k miles on my stroker motor and no wrist pin issue so in my experience...getting stroked has been great.

    Oh...and on the heads....I went with GM cast 317 heads from a LQ9 motor. They have bigger combustion chambers which is more suited for forced induction. I probably should've went with a set of AFR heads because aftermarket (not factory cast) heads can be machined for more flow than a cast set of heads.
    What CR did you end up with your bottom end and the 317's?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ntimid8r View Post
    Wow, talk about a freudian slip, I meant car. haha I'm busy at work and I guess not paying too much attention to what I'm posting. I have no explanation why I wrote guy instead of car. Please accept my apologies.

    The racetronix system is the best deal IMO. If you're running a high performance motor that needs alot of fuel delivery...that system does the job beautifully. I ended upgrading to the twin pump setup from Lonnies Performance. That has two racetronix pumps in it. My old one I sold to a friend that uses nitrous....and no problems with fuel on that car either.
    im at work too. trying to avoid falling asleep. but yes, my car will love it
    i got the racetronix cuz it was best for the $$, i love it when it works out like that. my stocker is about ready to croak. i'll be surprised if i make it to school on monday to do the install

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Then go to 402/408 with either an LS2 (402-404) or LQ9 (402-414) block.

    As for the heads, this is what feeds the motor, and you will want a well matched set of heads for the cubes AND for the cam.
    I am running a 248/254 629/622 113 cam and Patriot stage III LS6 heads.
    I would LOVE to get some AFR 225's (ported) on there....more for the powerband than anything else.



    Agreed with the Racetronix stuff. I am running the single in-tank 255 kit. Not a problem with it for 4 years now.
    that is awesome information. i really appreciate it. i want something beastly but still streetable for the most part. i will keep all this info in mind when i start looking for my parts. i'll probably start scoping out a block asap but i'll be grabbing up a stroker "kit" after christmas.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tep98ws6 View Post
    that is awesome information. i really appreciate it. i want something beastly but still streetable for the most part. i will keep all this info in mind when i start looking for my parts. i'll probably start scoping out a block asap but i'll be grabbing up a stroker "kit" after christmas.
    I drive mine all over the place. 95% street time.
    Cubes will swallow up a big cam, so you can 'get away' with more duration and lift.
    Mine acts like a 230/230 would in an LS1.

    Feel free to ask any specific questions once you begin, via PM or on the board. I did a lot of research into my motor before I had the shortblock built, and then a bunch more when I was installing the heads, cam, etc...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    What CR did you end up with your bottom end and the 317's?
    The short block was built for 9.1:1. I haven't done a c/r check through the heads. So the answer to your question is I don't know to be honest.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    I drive mine all over the place. 95% street time.
    Cubes will swallow up a big cam, so you can 'get away' with more duration and lift.
    Mine acts like a 230/230 would in an LS1.

    Feel free to ask any specific questions once you begin, via PM or on the board. I did a lot of research into my motor before I had the shortblock built, and then a bunch more when I was installing the heads, cam, etc...
    nice! i will definitely do that. where did you look to find specifics? i've been looking around for awhile, noticed only a handful of folks on here had strokers ... mostly all bolt ons & FI/NOS but i want just raw enging power. don't get me wrong, superchargers/turbos are awesome, NOS isn't my thing but i want something that's just brute power.

    did you have to sleeve anything or do anything special to the cylinder walls?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ntimid8r View Post
    The short block was built for 9.1:1. I haven't done a c/r check through the heads. So the answer to your question is I don't know to be honest.
    What times and numbers are you running?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    I drive mine all over the place. 95% street time.
    Cubes will swallow up a big cam, so you can 'get away' with more duration and lift.
    Mine acts like a 230/230 would in an LS1.

    Feel free to ask any specific questions once you begin, via PM or on the board. I did a lot of research into my motor before I had the shortblock built, and then a bunch more when I was installing the heads, cam, etc...
    Cam size and heads all boils down to airflow regardless of how many cubes. Running a really high lift cam plays hell on valve springs and they'll often break if the valve seating isn't done right. Quite risky for a daily driver IMO. For track use...that's a different story.

    That's why I like forced induction. Can have mild cam and spring combo yet make mucho power.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    What times and numbers are you running?
    Well with my limited passes, I've only made a handful of runs, I ran an 11.8 @119. Driver is real rusty and didn't get very good launches. I need to gain confidence in the tires and find a higher rpm to launch with. Could use bigger tires too, only have the M/T 10.5 wide ones. With the suspension so tight being lowered, I get no weight transfer. Part of the give and take I accepted when going with a street car first, track car second.

    I've got a big list of excuses but the car has more speed in it that I've shown so far.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tep98ws6 View Post
    nice! i will definitely do that. where did you look to find specifics? i've been looking around for awhile, noticed only a handful of folks on here had strokers ... mostly all bolt ons & FI/NOS but i want just raw enging power. don't get me wrong, superchargers/turbos are awesome, NOS isn't my thing but i want something that's just brute power.

    did you have to sleeve anything or do anything special to the cylinder walls?
    I read a lot of the advanced tech section over at Tech.
    Called several shops asking for info.
    Etc.

    Nothing special. The nice thing about the LS2/LQ9 blocks is that they are already a 4" bore, so technically you are adding stroke and bore over the LS1.


    The bigger cams are hell on the valvetrain. That is why it is so vital to set it all up correctly. I went with the very expensive Morel lifters, and I believe they truly make a difference with stability in the valvetrain.
    I do expect to swap out my valvesprings every 15K miles with my cam though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    I read a lot of the advanced tech section over at Tech.
    Called several shops asking for info.
    Etc.

    Nothing special. The nice thing about the LS2/LQ9 blocks is that they are already a 4" bore, so technically you are adding stroke and bore over the LS1.


    The bigger cams are hell on the valvetrain. That is why it is so vital to set it all up correctly. I went with the very expensive Morel lifters, and I believe they truly make a difference with stability in the valvetrain.
    I do expect to swap out my valvesprings every 15K miles with my cam though.
    so you're saying find a bare ls2/lq9 block, forged internals, carefully pick a good cam, get a heavy duty valve train and have at it?

    correct me if i'm wrong but ls2 - aluminum, lq9 - iron, right? going with a bigger block means no sleeving? so if i wanted lighter/"quicker" go ls2 ... but if i want to be safer go lq9?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tep98ws6 View Post
    so you're saying find a bare ls2/lq9 block, forged internals, carefully pick a good cam, get a heavy duty valve train and have at it?

    correct me if i'm wrong but ls2 - aluminum, lq9 - iron, right? going with a bigger block means no sleeving? so if i wanted lighter/"quicker" go ls2 ... but if i want to be safer go lq9?
    If you are planning on staying N/A, go LS2. Block is good for plenty of power. Yeah, iron is stronger, but unless we are talking about 800-1000 at the wheels, it isn't gonna make a difference.
    The difference in weight between the blocks is about 80 pounds.
    The price difference (and the original plan to get boosted) is why I went with the LQ9. Now, the price is about the same. LQ9 is still probably a bit cheaper.

    Also, ALL of your LS1 sensors will fit the LQ9 block.
    The LS2 block will require a few harness extensions as there were changes to a few sensors.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    If you are planning on staying N/A, go LS2. Block is good for plenty of power. Yeah, iron is stronger, but unless we are talking about 800-1000 at the wheels, it isn't gonna make a difference.
    The difference in weight between the blocks is about 80 pounds.
    The price difference (and the original plan to get boosted) is why I went with the LQ9. Now, the price is about the same. LQ9 is still probably a bit cheaper.

    Also, ALL of your LS1 sensors will fit the LQ9 block.
    The LS2 block will require a few harness extensions as there were changes to a few sensors.
    ahhh, good to know. my brain feels 3x bigger now that it was before lunch time. im wanting 400+ but no more than 500. kind of broad but i havn't mathmatically sat down and wrote up what kind of build i'm aiming for ... this are fairly new ideas and havn't really started other than i know i need $$ for it!

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    Quote Originally Posted by tep98ws6 View Post
    ahhh, good to know. my brain feels 3x bigger now that it was before lunch time. im wanting 400+ but no more than 500. kind of broad but i havn't mathmatically sat down and wrote up what kind of build i'm aiming for ... this are fairly new ideas and havn't really started other than i know i need $$ for it!
    I never expected to make 531 through my Moser 9"...but it did.
    My goal was right around 490-500 and 11's at this altitude. Got both, so I am happy with the car.
    For me though, dyno numbers are meaningless if the car doesn't run well. Or if it runs really well but doesn't make as much as one would think on the dyno....then who cares about the numbers.

    That said, if you want 400RWHP, it will be a piece of cake. A decent set of budget heads (PRC/Patriot) and an average sized cam for a larger cubed motor will get you there.
    Something in the 240/242 610/610 on a 114 LSA would be perfect.

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    Going with an LS1 block will be alot cheaper. Parts have been out for quite a while with them. LS aluminum blocks need to be sleeved btw.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    I never expected to make 531 through my Moser 9"...but it did.
    My goal was right around 490-500 and 11's at this altitude. Got both, so I am happy with the car.
    For me though, dyno numbers are meaningless if the car doesn't run well. Or if it runs really well but doesn't make as much as one would think on the dyno....then who cares about the numbers.

    That said, if you want 400RWHP, it will be a piece of cake. A decent set of budget heads (PRC/Patriot) and an average sized cam for a larger cubed motor will get you there.
    Something in the 240/242 610/610 on a 114 LSA would be perfect.

    nice. i'm excited. i'm glad there's a handful of people on here with stroker knowledge. im hoping to get it running good (it's ran like ass since i bought it in june and my instructor has it stamped on my brain DO NOT TUNE CARS THAT HAVE ANY SORT OF PROBLEM) ... so im fixing lean conditions and THEN i'll do a before/after dyno & 1/4. i've been looking at both comp & lutani (sp?) cams, LS2 heads and picking around looking for headers. i havn't gotten very far yet, minus on the heads.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ntimid8r View Post
    LS aluminum blocks need to be sleeved btw.
    THANK YOU

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    Quote Originally Posted by ntimid8r View Post
    Well with my limited passes, I've only made a handful of runs, I ran an 11.8 @119. Driver is real rusty and didn't get very good launches. I need to gain confidence in the tires and find a higher rpm to launch with. Could use bigger tires too, only have the M/T 10.5 wide ones. With the suspension so tight being lowered, I get no weight transfer. Part of the give and take I accepted when going with a street car first, track car second.

    I've got a big list of excuses but the car has more speed in it that I've shown so far.
    Yea, big excuses here also for my times. Whats your 60' average?

    I will not be building another NA motor. But this combo im running will keep interested at least until I get my funds back up and rolling. I want turbo, but supercharging can, and usually is much more simple. OP, if your going NA... 383 is almost pointless when 402+ CI is a minimal amount more money. Good luck OP with whatever you choose.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tep98ws6 View Post
    nice. i'm excited. i'm glad there's a handful of people on here with stroker knowledge. im hoping to get it running good (it's ran like ass since i bought it in june and my instructor has it stamped on my brain DO NOT TUNE CARS THAT HAVE ANY SORT OF PROBLEM) ... so im fixing lean conditions and THEN i'll do a before/after dyno & 1/4. i've been looking at both comp & lutani (sp?) cams, LS2 heads and picking around looking for headers. i havn't gotten very far yet, minus on the heads.
    Lunati.

    Most of the grinds you will find out there are COMP grinds...just with the shops specs.
    My TSP cam is a COMP grind.

    Quote Originally Posted by ntimid8r View Post
    LS aluminum blocks need to be sleeved btw.
    Only if you are punching it out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Only if you are punching it out.
    LS1 blocks are sleeved....period. From brand new to machined out. Here's a LS1 buyers guide from GM high tech performance. In the first paragraph it mentions how you don't have to "re-sleeve" the gen IV blocks for stroking. This guide should prove useful for the OP.

    In the picture of the LS1 block below, you can see the sleeve.


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