Stripped Bolt Head

**sparkman0034** · 12-17-2010, 01:13 PM

My bird needs an oil change. When I started to attempt to DIY I noticed an issue, the head of the plug bolt is stripped, almost rounded.
Does anybody know how to get that bolt loose so I can change the oil and replace it? Being from AR redneck methods are naturally welcome. Just whatever works.
Thanks in advance

**Smittro** · 12-17-2010, 01:17 PM

Go to the auto parts and grab a new plug. Then take a set of vise grips to your old one..

**blackcar** · 12-17-2010, 01:18 PM

EDIT: ^^^^ beat me

Visegrips FTW.

What part of AR?

**sparkman0034** · 12-17-2010, 01:18 PM

Vice Grips and a mallet. Shouldve thought of that..

Thanks

**blackcar** · 12-17-2010, 01:23 PM

Should be able to get it with out the mallet.

**10erg01** · 12-17-2010, 01:31 PM

I've actually got a rounded bolt head on a 78 TA intake manifold and it's rusted in, any ideas.

**sjgreen6** · 12-17-2010, 02:11 PM

For the intake bolt try an overnight soak with lots of penetrating oil, then try the vice grips. A good penetrant like CRC or PB1 allowed to really soak for a while works wonders. Most people try to get by with WD40 but it just isn't the same in my experience.

If you can't get the vice grips in there try a slightly smaller metric socket that needs to be tapped on to the bolt head with a hammer or go to a well stocked tool store, they make some special sockets to grip rounded bolt heads.

**0rion** · 12-17-2010, 02:51 PM

Originally Posted by 10erg01

I've actually got a rounded bolt head on a 78 TA intake manifold and it's rusted in, any ideas.

soak it in pb blaster and craftsman makes sockets that will grab rounded heads. There are a few other tricks too. You can heat the intake around it and that works sometimes or heat around it and hit it with a can of compressed air to cool just the bolt down.

**10erg01** · 12-17-2010, 10:56 PM

Originally Posted by 0rion

soak it in pb blaster and craftsman makes sockets that will grab rounded heads. There are a few other tricks too. You can heat the intake around it and that works sometimes or heat around it and hit it with a can of compressed air to cool just the bolt down.

I've done the craftsman thing and it did not work due to clearance and what is pb blaster?

**Smittro** · 12-18-2010, 01:33 AM

Originally Posted by 10erg01

I've done the craftsman thing and it did not work due to clearance and what is pb blaster?

It's a penetration catalyst, and is better than liquid wrech and wd-40 which are mostly kerosene based.. Spray it with the PB and wait for a good while for it to do its job then go @ it again..

**pajeff02** · 12-18-2010, 04:06 AM

I am a fan of using candle wax with the fire wrench. After warming everything up, touch a candle to the base of the bolt head and the wax will melt and wick into the thread. I used this method to remove the exhaust manifold bolts on our 40 year old Oldsmobile (no pun intended). Not even sure who taught me this trick, but it does work.

One other trick -- if the threads are seized too tightly for the bolt to unscrew, you can hit it with an air chisel. There is usually a blunt tip that you can place on the bolt head then let it pound away on it a bit. The intense vibration can help to break things free, especially after utilizing something like PB Blaster.

If all else fails, drilling out the bolt is about your final option. The key is center punching the head of the bolt and drilling down its center axis. I have found that if my center punch is off just a bit, a small piece of wood can be used to apply pressure to the side of the drill bit to force it on center as you start to drill. Start small and work your way up.

Once you have the center opened up a bit, you can then try an "easy out". It is essentially a sharp fluted tap that threads in counterclockwise. As it tightens, it grabs the bolt and tries to unscrew it. Word of caution -- do not break off the easy out by applying too much pressure or you will be really screwed. If it doesn't want to come out, simply up your drill size a bit more and as the wall of the bolt is diminished it will be more likely to come out.

**Z28_Driver** · 12-19-2010, 06:48 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I am a fan of using candle wax with the fire wrench. After warming everything up, touch a candle to the base of the bolt head and the wax will melt and wick into the thread. I used this method to remove the exhaust manifold bolts on our 40 year old Oldsmobile (no pun intended). Not even sure who taught me this trick, but it does work.

One other trick -- if the threads are seized too tightly for the bolt to unscrew, you can hit it with an air chisel. There is usually a blunt tip that you can place on the bolt head then let it pound away on it a bit. The intense vibration can help to break things free, especially after utilizing something like PB Blaster.

If all else fails, drilling out the bolt is about your final option. The key is center punching the head of the bolt and drilling down its center axis. I have found that if my center punch is off just a bit, a small piece of wood can be used to apply pressure to the side of the drill bit to force it on center as you start to drill. Start small and work your way up.

Once you have the center opened up a bit, you can then try an "easy out". It is essentially a sharp fluted tap that threads in counterclockwise. As it tightens, it grabs the bolt and tries to unscrew it. Word of caution -- do not break off the easy out by applying too much pressure or you will be really screwed. If it doesn't want to come out, simply up your drill size a bit more and as the wall of the bolt is diminished it will be more likely to come out.

If you go the easy out route make sure to get a good brand. The junk from autozone just snaps into the bolt making more of a problem.

**cammed goat** · 12-19-2010, 06:56 AM

All suggestions get my vote.

**10erg01** · 12-19-2010, 10:22 AM

I think I will have to go with liquid products first since there is no clearance on the manifold to get just about any kind of tool on the bolt.

**blackcar** · 12-20-2010, 07:40 AM

Saw on TV over the weekend that Loctite has a new product called Freeze and Release.

From there website: "Loctite® Freeze & Release instantly freezes seized and rusted bolts, nuts, studs down to -45°F (-43°C). This ultra shock-freeze effect causes microscopic cracks in the layer of rust, allowing the penetrating oil to wick directly into the rust by capillary action. The assembly can be easily dismantled after allowing only 1-2 minutes penetration time"