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Stripped bolt for coolant flush ????????

This is a discussion on Stripped bolt for coolant flush ???????? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hello all I was trying to do a complete flush on my 1999 TA, I removed the large 17mm allen ...

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    Stripped bolt for coolant flush ????????

    Hello all I was trying to do a complete flush on my 1999 TA, I removed the large 17mm allen head bolt on the drivers side and drained the radiator but when I went to drain the passanger side above the starter I see some must have used the wrong size allen or something and rounded it out, with the rest being drained is there much still in the block,just wondering should I be concerned about removing the rest it really ticks me off but lost as to what I can do. Also on the large 17mm plug should I use something on the threads when installing it back in or should it be fine just snugging it down. thanks for the help!

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    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Things I have tried.

    Sears may have something that would work in the way of an easy-out.
    JB Weld an allen key into the hole.
    Torx wrench or slightly larger torx hammered into hole.
    Slightly larger allen key hammered into the hole.
    Next size up allen key hand ground to fit tight & hammered into hole.
    Hammer & punch.
    Hacksaw blade a slot & use hammer & chisel.

    Maybe a good idea to put some anti-sieze on them.....steel into aluminum = bad joojoo.

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    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    Put the left side plug back in - they are brass so thread sealer tape or a little sealer but you don't need antiseize. Remove the thermostat, open the draincock and flush it with clean water with the engine running until it runs clear. The capacity of the cooling system is 11.8 qts, so after it is completely clear, let it drain, close the draincock, put in 6 qts of antifreeze and top it off with water - I use bottled water just to avoid the extra minerals.
    Last edited by DaddySS; 06-20-2009 at 05:36 PM.

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    There is still quite a bit of coolant on that side of the engine. I would do like rbob suggested and go with a slightly larger torx bit tapped in to the plug to try to break it free. Remember -- your block is aluminum and the plug is brass, so you shouldn't pound it in with a BFH. Tapping in the torx will also help the threads break free too.

    Absolutely use a sealant, but don't overdo it. I used a blue pipefitting thread sealant that is impervious to coolant. BTW - I found that a 5/16" allen head actually fit the passenger side plug the best even though it is probably metric.

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    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    Understand but if you run it with the thermostat out until it runs clear you will get the rest of the coolant out.

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    Wow you guys go through a lot of trouble for a coolant flush. I hook up a temporary flush tee to a heater hose, remove the rad cap, open the rad drain, and run the garden hose through the system for like 10 or 15 minutes. I also run the engine a little while during that process to get the water pump to stir up some coolant from the block. After it ran clear for a few minutes then its good.
    then drain the rad, remove the temp tee and add straight dexcool(half of the cooling system capacity) and top the rest with water. Top the reservoir with 50/50.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Wow you guys go through a lot of trouble for a coolant flush. I hook up a temporary flush tee to a heater hose, remove the rad cap, open the rad drain, and run the garden hose through the system for like 10 or 15 minutes. I also run the engine a little while during that process to get the water pump to stir up some coolant from the block. After it ran clear for a few minutes then its good.
    then drain the rad, remove the temp tee and add straight dexcool(half of the cooling system capacity) and top the rest with water. Top the reservoir with 50/50.

    I live in the country and our water has a bit of mineral content. That's why I have to drop all the block drains in lieu of a hose flush. City water has chlorine - probably not real good for aluminum. I actually used distilled water for the entire flush and re-fill. Call me anal.

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    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I live in the country and our water has a bit of mineral content. That's why I have to drop all the block drains in lieu of a hose flush. City water has chlorine - probably not real good for aluminum. I actually used distilled water for the entire flush and re-fill. Call me anal.
    Not so anal, it's a good way to do do it if you have the drive and patience - I say good work!

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    I still couldnt get it I just filled the radiator with distilled water and ran for 10 minutes then dropped the lower rad plug. I did this with distilled water til it came out clean. After it came out clean I just refilled the radiator with dexcool and called it a day. Thanks again for the help.

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    C-4 Works too

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