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STILL not getting gas

This is a discussion on STILL not getting gas within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; About a month ago, I took Nymphadora out of storage and tried to start her up, but I wasn't getting ...

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    STILL not getting gas

    About a month ago, I took Nymphadora out of storage and tried to start her up, but I wasn't getting fuel. So I first replaced the fuel filter, still no fuel. Then I replaced the fuel pump with the racetronix pump and hotwire kit at the same time as I installed my 9" rear end. Before I had the rear in (car still on jackstands), I started the car and ran it for about 5 minutes. I then installed the 9" (needed a new u-joint), and dropped it back on the ground.

    One day between school and work, I was outside doing some yard work and decided to let the car idle to clean out the crap in the tank. After about 30 minutes of idle time, I went to check if all of the lights were working after 4 months of storage. When I flipped up the headlights, I noticed that both the lowbeams and highbeams were on, and they were all dim. I figured there was something wrong with the connection, so I reaching past the driver's side headlight and fiddled with the headlight connection. It felt wet, so I pulled it appart to check it out. When I pulled the connection, the engine shut off. This surprised me, but I've seen stranger things happen. So, I reconnected the headlights and went to start the car again, but it wouldn't start. It would turn over, but wouldn't fire. Since I now had to go to work, I just left it.

    The car then sat for 2 weeks till I had time to install the new u-joint in the DS and get it installed in the car (Wednesday).

    Fast forward to today...I went to start the car and it started and ran for about 10-15 seconds before it died. I turned it over again, it fired twice, but didn't start. After that, all it would do would turn over and over, but not fire, till the battery was dead. I might want to mention, that there is no fuel in the lines (checked schrader valve). I replaced the fuel pump relay, and used the battery out of my suburban to try and get it started, but same result, turning over, but no fire.

    Is there anything I'm missing, or should be checking? A buddy of mine suggest that run the pump without a relay, is this a good idea?

    This is really pissing me off, and is making me leary of taking the car anywhere, because I'm afraid it won't start at school or work and I'll have to get it towed.

  2. #2
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    You can try to swap out the relay with another (as you did), or just check the circuit with a test light. Pull the relay, and then with the key in the "run" position you should have two (2) wires that are hot. One will be the relay trigger and the other will be the power feed to the fuel pump. (The only exception would be if the relay closes a ground circuit to the fuel pump, but this is not likely.) If you only have one hot wire start hunting for a blown fuse.

    Upon turning the key on, with the relay re-installed, you can usually hear a low hum as the fuel pump engages and pressurizes the system. If everything electrical appears good, pop your line at the fuel filter and see if fuel will run out of the line from the tank (I assume there is gas in the tank). If you do not get fuel, you can use a suction gun to try and draw fuel from the tank. Not likely, but I suppose there could be a blockage or plugged off vent return that is causing your fuel system to vacuum lock.
    Last edited by pajeff02; 04-03-2009 at 06:17 PM.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    do you hear the pump prime? If yes have you checked the pressure at the rail? If no check the harness back at the tank and verify 12 volts are getting to the pump. If not chase it forward until you find 12 volts.

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    sounds to me like you gotta clog

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    You can disconnect the lines at the filter and before the rail. I blew mine out with 50 psi of air to clean them out. Just dont blow air into the rail, or into the filter the wrong way. And if you ran your car to get all the crap out of the bottom of the tank, I would replace the filter again.
    2000 SLP Camaro SS M6 * 515 HP TrickFlow Package * FAST 92 MM Intake * Nick Williams 92 MM TB * Volant CAI * Granatelli MAF * Full Custom True Dual Exhaust with X-Pipe * Tuned by Breathless Performance

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    Update...

    I don't know what I did, but I got it running yesterday. I then drove it to get gas (was about a quarter tank). Since the battery was dead, I decided to not turn it off. When I went to leave the gas station, the car stalled. It felt like when a car stalls because it's low on fuel and the gas sloshed around. And since the battery hadn't charged yet, it wouldn't fire back up. I had my buddy (who was coming over anyway) swing by my house and grab the jumper cables. He came by and hooked the cables up to the car and it started right up. I then drove straight home, just in case she decided to act up again. When we got home, I parked her in the driveway, left her running to charge the battery, and went inside to wash my hands. While inside talking to my friend, I heard the car die (about 5 minutes after I parked it). I went outside and tried to start the car. It turned over, fired, ran for about 3 seconds, and died. It did this about 4 or 5 times before the battery was dead again.

    What could be causing this? My mechanic buddy said, among other things, that a cam sensor could be bad, or the battery could be causing a fluxuation in the voltage.

    What do you guys think?

    Thanks again for the help.

  7. #7
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    You may want to load test the battery -- if it is too far gone it may be affecting your charging circuit. Also, using a voltmeter first check your battery -- should be anywhere from 11.3 to 12.8 volts. Then fire it up and check the battery again -- should be anywhere from 13.3 to 14.5 volts. Voltage should increase slightly if you throttle it up. That will tell you if your alternator is doing anything... I know our cars have volt guages, but they seem to be an approximation at best. Sounds like you are having fun with this one!

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    You may want to load test the battery -- if it is too far gone it may be affecting your charging circuit. Also, using a voltmeter first check your battery -- should be anywhere from 11.3 to 12.8 volts. Then fire it up and check the battery again -- should be anywhere from 13.3 to 14.5 volts. Voltage should increase slightly if you throttle it up. That will tell you if your alternator is doing anything... I know our cars have volt guages, but they seem to be an approximation at best. Sounds like you are having fun with this one!
    I'm going to replace the battery today, sicne it has a free 3-year replacement, and it's only a year old. I'll report back when I know more.

    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Sounds like you are having fun with this one
    Yeah...RIGHT!!! I'm more concerned about getting it running because I was planning on doing my H/C/I swap this Thursday and I want to have it running before I tear it appart. I know that sounds weird, but I want to have the most minimal reasons why it won't start after the swap...does that make sense?

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    O' ye of little faith! It won't be long and you'll be But I do understand wanting to make it run again before you rip into it. Nothing bothers me more than something I can't figure out!
    Last edited by pajeff02; 04-05-2009 at 07:11 AM.

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    I keep thinking back to those dimming head lights. I wonder if you have a short pulling the electrical system down. A little harder, but I'd be wanting to see the current pull on the alternator.

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    Well. Lets start with basics... Change the battery.. which your doing.. Id look at the ground/postive leads and look for obvious stuff. Second, is the battery charging? I do know for 100% fact a weak charging system will throw codes. I left my lights on one night while I was working on someones stranded car in a parking lot and the car idles wierd and when I got home and scanned it, it had throw MAF, cam, cranksensor and all kinds of codes because of the wierd voltage. With that said, check the voltage at the battery and see if you getting more than 13.6 volts at idle. If that is good to go, then what causes in the PCM would make the injectors not fire? Cam position sensor? Crank Sensor? I do not know.

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    On a side note. Could the alternator be causing this?

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    Thanks for the suggestions guys...if it's the alternator I'm going to be really pissed, because I don't have $200 I can just drop on the fly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    Thanks for the suggestions guys...if it's the alternator I'm going to be really pissed, because I don't have $200 I can just drop on the fly.
    Im sure someone on tech or a forum can get you one cheaper that is used

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    This sounds like a ground problem to me. Follow the 2 ground cables that are coming off the battery. one should go to the engine,above the starter. the other to the front side of the wheel well. Are the wires in good shape and the connections good and tight?
    Did you have to replace the u-joint because it was bad or because it of the 9" swap? I've heard of u-joints failing because of missing ground straps between the engine and chassis. The electrical current can't flow through the rubber engine and trans mounts, so it follows the DS down and arcs across the u-joint needle bearings.

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    I FIGURED IT OUT!!!

    Racetronix sent me a bad fuel pump. It makes sense...speratic (sp?) fueling, electrically sound car, etc.

    Do you think Racetronix will replace it for free?

    Opinions?

  16. #16
    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    I FIGURED IT OUT!!!

    Racetronix sent me a bad fuel pump. It makes sense...speratic (sp?) fueling, electrically sound car, etc.

    Do you think Racetronix will replace it for free?

    Opinions?
    are you sure? just sounds kinda weird it didnt start untill you messed with the lights. did you re-check the ground for the hotwire kit?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Crash View Post
    are you sure? just sounds kinda weird it didnt start untill you messed with the lights. did you re-check the ground for the hotwire kit?
    The lights work fine now. I think it was just a random thing that happened while the pump was dying.

  18. #18
    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    The lights work fine now. I think it was just a random thing that happened while the pump was dying.
    have you tried to contact racetronix yet?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Crash View Post
    have you tried to contact racetronix yet?
    Just sent them an email now.

  20. #20
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    I was going to say it sounds like a fuel pump issue, but just read your last posts and you nailed it. Glad to see you back on the road again!

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