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still leaking...?!?!

This is a discussion on still leaking...?!?! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by rbob93 Maybe this will help www.other -web-site-links-not-allowed.com seems like a good write up, but the pics wont ...

  1. #21
    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbob93 View Post
    seems like a good write up, but the pics wont show. how can i see a pic of the allignment tool, or were can i get it?
    Last edited by Spaz; 05-23-2011 at 08:54 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sutie View Post
    thanks for the tips, now for #2...are you talking about putting rtv on the rear main before pressing into the rear cover housing....and outside meaning facing the tranny?

    Around the very outside metal ring of the seal. It has to be on the seal rather than the rear plate so that it does not get pushed into the engine when you install the seal.

  3. #23
    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Around the very outside metal ring of the seal. It has to be on the seal rather than the rear plate so that it does not get pushed into the engine when you install the seal.
    ok, so your talking about putting a thin film of RTV on the rear cover portion that the rear main presses into, correct? also, can you tell me if the rear cover gaket needs a bead of RTV on it either all the way around or just on the bottom were it sits on the oil pan gasket? also, do you know the torque specs for the 10 or 12 bolts that hold the rear main onto the block? i couldnt find it. and were the heck can i borrow this allignment tool from??

  4. #24
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Your local parts store should have clutch alignment tools.

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    No -- not on the plate. The RTV has to be on the steel body of the seal. If you put it on the plate it will force the RTV into your engine and end up in your oil pump's intake screen. I was late logging in tonight -- I'll get the specs and pics posted tomorrow morning if all goes well.

  6. #26
    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    No -- not on the plate. The RTV has to be on the steel body of the seal. If you put it on the plate it will force the RTV into your engine and end up in your oil pump's intake screen. I was late logging in tonight -- I'll get the specs and pics posted tomorrow morning if all goes well.
    ok, i think im tracking. please post some pics though to help clear the confusion up for me...

    other questions
    -do i need to lower the oil pan to put the rear cover on correctly?
    -how do i know how far to press in the new seal?
    -is there another way to make the verticle and horizantal adjustments to the cover without using the tool?

    i really do appriciate all the help, you guys are life savers!

  7. #27
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    Here are the pics from the service manual:






  8. #28
    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    thanks.

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    It appears that the side-to-side alignment is critical as the cover seats against the top rail of the oil pan. You can probably rig up some sort of spacer and with a set of feeler gauges bump the cover back and forth until you have an equal gap on each side of the crank.

  10. #30
    ls1 powered seabee sutie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    It appears that the side-to-side alignment is critical as the cover seats against the top rail of the oil pan. You can probably rig up some sort of spacer and with a set of feeler gauges bump the cover back and forth until you have an equal gap on each side of the crank.
    yea, im going to have to try that. now should you put the cover on the block, get it centered, then put in the rear main seal? or can you put the seal in the cover while its off, then put it all on? and should you run a bead of RTV on the bottom rail were it meets the oil pan gasket?

  11. #31
    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    It appears that the side-to-side alignment is critical as the cover seats against the top rail of the oil pan. You can probably rig up some sort of spacer and with a set of feeler gauges bump the cover back and forth until you have an equal gap on each side of the crank.
    I believe it is possible to use the balancer instead of the actual locator tool

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    Quote Originally Posted by sutie View Post
    yea, im going to have to try that. now should you put the cover on the block, get it centered, then put in the rear main seal? or can you put the seal in the cover while its off, then put it all on? and should you run a bead of RTV on the bottom rail were it meets the oil pan gasket?

    Install the plate first, center it and tighten it down. Then install the seal.


    Quote Originally Posted by rbob93 View Post
    I believe it is possible to use the balancer instead of the actual locator tool

    This is the back of the engine. I know you can do that for the front... are the journals the same size?

  13. #33
    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Install the plate first, center it and tighten it down. Then install the seal.





    This is the back of the engine. I know you can do that for the front... are the journals the same size?
    Ooops....my bad!

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    I know this is an old thread, but I appear to be having the same type of leak and I'll be replacing the transmission in the next few weeks, so I'll already have half the job done.

    Any update on if you've gotten the leak stopped?

  15. #35
    Member denegrader's Avatar
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    Well i was very concerned as i was noy happy after i bouht to see any knd of oil leak or anything.
    I got a t stat prob right after that i fixed the cooling system issue.
    well then had a service engine soon light , bought a scanner i erased it it aint come back .
    i was ditracted from oil leak.
    now i figured ok it aint a new car and oil leaks as this aint easy to figure where their comming from got a lotta good help here.
    Actually not really sure where its comming from figure its pan but could be rear main so i just lived with it.

  16. #36
    Senior Member wileyCoyote's Avatar
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    i still have an oil leak too, but the good news is my gas mileage keeps going up

  17. #37
    Junior Member wildbanshee's Avatar
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    ok...you guys got me puckered up pretty good because my car just started leaking last month...its a pretty heavy leak as well..quart every 300miles or so. i just got under it and hard to tell the leaks location but becuase i had the rear main replaced with my clutch last year, i will be checking the opsu this afternoon....hoping that the problem but after reading all of these posts....im thinking ill bring it to the dealer if the opsu does not fix it...i know they will rape me on the cost but if it leaks again...it will come right back to their asses until its done! and the piece of mind might be worth the extra $$$....

  18. #38
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    I would start with the OPSU. They go bad and lead us to believe the rear main seal is shot. Spray the bellhousing with brakleen and wipe it down and let the car run to see if the oil is dripping.

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