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starting problem

This is a discussion on starting problem within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; When I go to start my car sometimes it won't start and all the gauges sweep over to the right ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member silver99ss's Avatar
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    starting problem

    When I go to start my car sometimes it won't start and all the gauges sweep over to the right then slowly come back to the left. I tried the vats bypass and still the same thing. Any advice would help.

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    Mine is not a daily driver. I think mine did similarly, the gauges, a few times but started reluctantly and then when I had let it set like a month without starting it (out of town) it wouldn't start. Needed a recharge.
    I assumed the gauge thing was due to borderline voltage.

    You likely have a battery or alternator fading. Or it could be the starter. Especially if you turn the key on w/o starting it and the gauges seem fine.

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    Don't think it's VATS if you're not getting the security light. Bet the trip odometer is resetting too when it doess it? It's caused by low voltage on the '99 cars, there was a TSB on it to replace the IPC but a good battery/connections makes it go away.

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    Mine will do it every now and then and it drives me nuts. Thought about doing the vats also but, there seems to be quite a few things that can cause this.

    I'll take a peek at the battery etc when it happens again. thanks for the info.

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    Thanks 2001NBMZ28, I didn't know about the TSB on 99s.

    I'd say the IPC has a higher drop across some component than it really should be, diodes are notorious for this. Seen wire runs, resettable fuses, and thermistors do the same. I've seen suppliers change diodes (to save a few cents) and result in rare and intermittent problems from them dropping 30 to 120mV more than originals at upper operating currents.

    I'm going to try to run some wires from my engine bay into my car so I can monitor different sensor readings on a meter or O-scope. If I come across the main power wire to the IPC I will see if I can measure the voltage drop across it. I have overcome very similar problems in the past by increasing the wire gauge, adding a parallel wire, or shortening the run to get more voltage into the component. I've seen 100mV increases and less wipe these sort of problems out.

    If I find something not too difficult to apply I will post.

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    Junior Member silver99ss's Avatar
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    Don't think it's VATS if you're not getting the security light. Bet the trip odometer is resetting too when it doess it? It's caused by low voltage on the '99 cars, there was a TSB on it to replace the IPC but a good battery/connections makes it go away.
    Thanks for all the info my trip does reset. my battery is 3 years old so i'll start their, and also check my connections.

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    Keep us updated

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    Junior Member silver99ss's Avatar
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    I just got done replacing the positive post bolt because it was stripped, and now it is starting. I let it idle and tried to start it, and it did it agian I checked the batt. and the volts were low. I got it started and noticed at idle the alternator wasn't charging until it got above 900 rpms. Any thoughts?

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    Hopefully it's not the alternator, just to be sure it's not the battery I'd bring it somewhere for a free load test.

    The TSB# on the trip reset is 99-08-49-009 Trip Odometer Resets to Zero (Exchange/Install Instrument Cluster). Doesn't mention the gauge sweep but usually happens at the same time.

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    When you say it doesn't charge till 900 rpm. Are you going by the Panel Gauge or a meter on the Alt/Battery?

    Always do the easy and free or cheap check first like testing the battery.

    But low frequency power loss is a rather common failure mode for any generator/alternator. If an alt doesn't go bad from blowing a diode, the regulator, or the exciter...they somewhat slowly wear out from rotor/stator deterioration and then they crash.

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    Junior Member wilsonls1's Avatar
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    i dont know if this helps any but my 99 z28 was doing the same exact thing. And the fix was a new alternator.

  12. #12
    Junior Member silver99ss's Avatar
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    thanks for the help i'm getting the alternator and batt. checked tomarrow.

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    when i had the problem it was just the starter. had to get my car towed out of the dorm's parking lot. was kinda embarrassing cause i was the asshole in buffalo with the loud ass camaro that did donuts in the parking lot. ah its great seeing the speedometer at 90 while ur slowly going round and round in the snow
    2002 z28-slp cai, slp loudmouth, slp tuned headers, slp 85 mm MAF, slp high flow cats, 3" y-pipe and collectors
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    Hey, a guy has to clean his tires off.

    Hit 130 and you can shine them and charge admission too!

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    Junior Member silver99ss's Avatar
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    I just put a new alternator, battery, and new battery post bolts on, and the car still wont start sometimes. It is still doing the same thing could it be the ingnition key?

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    Quote Originally Posted by silver99ss View Post
    I just put a new alternator, battery, and new battery post bolts on, and the car still wont start sometimes. It is still doing the same thing could it be the ingnition key?
    Very Possible. If it dead wont start.. no sound etc then its very possible.. do the VATS bypass.. its a sticky somewhere on here

  17. #17
    Junior Member silver99ss's Avatar
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    I did the VATS bypass and it still did the same thing. The car will turn over at the same speed as if it were going to start it just doesn't fire.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silver99ss View Post
    I did the VATS bypass and it still did the same thing. The car will turn over at the same speed as if it were going to start it just doesn't fire.
    No clue but you need to get someone with a program like Autotap to see whats going on.

  19. #19
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    I'd try to narrow this down from something that sounds intermittent. See if you can start the car, starts and runs, let it run 3 minutes (bring the rpms up over 2500 every 20 seconds for a few seconds. Walk away for 20 minutes then come back and see if it starts. (Rinse and repeat...a few times)

    Or jumper it to another car (bigger the better) and see if it starts every time?

    Because I'm wondering if the starter is putting too high of a pull on the battery. If it is doing this...with a good alt and batt...then there is some minimal combination of run time and batt recovery time that you'd find it started every time if you adhere to that time. I've seen this before though I can't recall if I've seen it on our cars. (Coil packs and ignition systems in general jack the voltage up (big energy consumer) and starters are just a straight shot high current pull, biggest pull by far. The starter in some systems can pull enough if failing/going-bad to not leave enough energy to feed the ignition system.) People then don't suspect a problem because it is cranking fine!

  20. #20
    Junior Member silver99ss's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'll give it a try.

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