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squeal from engine bay

This is a discussion on squeal from engine bay within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hey all. I have a high pitched squeal coming from the engine bay and I'm not too sure what it ...

  1. #1
    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    squeal from engine bay

    Hey all. I have a high pitched squeal coming from the engine bay and I'm not too sure what it is. Sounds like its coming from a belt pulley.. I initially thought it was the restrictor pulley but now I'm not so sure. It only happens when the cars cold, it'll stop after awhile of driving. Do you all think this means I need to buy a new pulley or is it possible that its the belt making the noise?
    2014 Camaro: Check. 2SS: Check. 1LE: Check. 6 Speed manual? CHECK

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Most of the time if it is squealing and goes away when it warms up is the belt. When is the last time you replaced the belt? If it was a long time ago it could be that is just old and drying up. It is the easiest thing to replace. Also make sure you are not leaking fluid on the belt.

    I use a piece of hose close to my ear and move the hose to each pulley. If you can hear the noise in one of them you found the issue. Remember you also have the small A/C belt at the bottom. Most people don't maintain that belt or pulleys.

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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot! I just got a new belt, so I guess i'll install it and see if that fixes the problem. I'll check the AC belt as well and do the hose trick

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    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    I had a similar squeal recently, turned out to be the belt rubbing a power steering hose, so you may wanna check those hoses too if the new belt does not fix it. Simple fix with a couple zip ties.
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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Hey guys, I replaced the belt. Turns out the squeal is coming from the pulley pictured. What's that about? Is that the power steering?IMG_20140420_111423.jpg

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guerrillakilla13 View Post
    Hey guys, I replaced the belt. Turns out the squeal is coming from the pulley pictured. What's that about? Is that the power steering?IMG_20140420_111423.jpg
    No that is the alternator. The pulley above it is the power steering.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 04-20-2014 at 01:15 PM.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Ohhh.. Thanks What're my options? Can I just unbolt the pulley and put a new one in, or do I need to grease something up lol

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    Probably need to replace the alternator. Remove the belt and spin it by hand. If the bearings are indeed shot, they'll feel dry or rough. You may also feel play or looseness.

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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    I didn't check the bearings, but I can tell you that spinning it by hand made the sucker squeal like crazy. After it gets warm it stops. I should replace the alternator?

    If so, alternators aren't that expensive at all THANK GOD. Is the installation pretty straightforward and easy?

    If not, should I just get new bearings, or can I spray WD40 on that wheel or something?


    EDIT:

    K so I may be thinking a little hard about this, but at idle (and with the music cranked up on my aftermarket system), the battery on my gauge meter hits about 15 1/2. I assume this means that I require over 155 amps? If so, I can get a 160 amp alternator for $110 on ebay. If not, I can get a 102 amp for 60 bucks. Please let me know gents. I'm obviously a little clueless.

    I know 200 amps cost over 300 bucks. No thank you to that.
    Last edited by Guerrillakilla13; 04-20-2014 at 05:15 PM.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Replace that alternator. What kind of stereo system are you running?

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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    damn how many amps do I need? I have like, 2 stingers, 2 amplifiers, and a dual bass system in the trunk (and no, I didn't do that. the person before me did) lol. Also have a radar detector, if that counts for anything at all.

    Is this good? 160 amp output http://www.ebay.com/itm/Firebird-Tra...824690&vxp=mtr
    Last edited by Guerrillakilla13; 04-20-2014 at 07:28 PM.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    For the price, that doesn't look bad.

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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Cool, i'll buy it. Is installation simple enough?

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guerrillakilla13 View Post
    Cool, i'll buy it. Is installation simple enough?
    is pretty easy, just be careful and make sure you unplug the connector from the back. It is a single wire and it can damaged easy if you forget to unplug it. there is a small bracket on the back that has one bolt to the alternator and one to the motor. Then 3 bolts on the front. You might need the remove the whole bracket to get it out. Some people can get it out without, I can't. It's up to you if you want to reinstall the rear bracket. I never did.
    1998 TA 130k A4, LS6 intake, TunedByFrost, Airlid, AIR and EGR delete, Borla exhaust, front Eibach lowering springs, LS6 valley cover, UMI TQ arm, UMI LCA's, UMI panhard bar, Poly engine mounts, BMR relocation brackets, Blistein HD shocks and struts, Oil catch can, Autotrix window fix.

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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    That's fantastic news, thank you so much! I'm so glad I can start doing these things myself. A belt replacement almost cost like 100 bucks, and I just did it myself for 20. Amazing how doing your own stuff can save you a ton of money.

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Make sure the big wire on the back of the alternator doesn't contact any metal when you take replace the alternator. It is directly connected to the battery positive so it will be like an arc welder if it touches metal.

    Best thing to do is disconnect the battery negative before you take replace the alternator, and don't reconnect the battery until the new alt is on. Some people don't like to do the battery disconnect since now the PCM forgets how to idle for a little while (a few engine warm ups) and radio pre-sets could be lost.

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Make sure the big wire on the back of the alternator doesn't contact any metal when you take replace the alternator. It is directly connected to the battery positive so it will be like an arc welder if it touches metal.

    Best thing to do is disconnect the battery negative before you take replace the alternator, and don't reconnect the battery until the new alt is on. Some people don't like to do the battery disconnect since now the PCM forgets how to idle for a little while (a few engine warm ups) and radio pre-sets could be lost.

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    I agree, best to disconnect the battery.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    If the alternator is still charging and working fine, what I do most of the time is just get a bearing kit for it (about ~$10) Just takes a few minutes to pull apart and change. Saves you $200 on a new alternator unless you just feel the need to upgrade to more amps

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    If the alternator is still charging and working fine, what I do most of the time is just get a bearing kit for it (about ~$10) Just takes a few minutes to pull apart and change. Saves you $200 on a new alternator unless you just feel the need to upgrade to more amps
    My grand prix alt is making some noise and I would like yo fix this. Is there a howto perhaps? Never done anything like this.

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