Squeaking noise

**35th-ANV-SS** · 07-11-2010, 01:00 PM

Been hearing a squeaking type noise last few drives out coming from the driver-side rear tire.

The sound appears to happen with the revolution of the tire. Almost sounds like something scrapping with each turn of the wheel. I first thought that maybe the metal tab was coming into contact with the rotor as I've never changed brakes in the rear before.

I pulled the wheel today and can't see anything abnormal. Rotors and pads still look good.

As soon as I hit the brakes to slow down, the sound stops.

Any ideas?

**00ls-1** · 07-11-2010, 01:04 PM

it could be your pad barely making contact with the rotor

**dennis ss** · 07-11-2010, 01:22 PM

Could be a sticky caliper making the pad come in contact with rotor. That happened to me before. I thought I needed new pads but had to buy a new caliper.

**pajeff02** · 07-11-2010, 01:24 PM

Agree. Anytime you have a slight degree of drag associated with the brakes the metallic compounds are prone to squeak. How about your caliper pins? Have they been cleaned and re-lubed? You may have just enough of a hang up that the caliper is dragging the pads a bit and causing the noise.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 07-11-2010, 02:39 PM

Update. Upon further inspection the metal tabs that slide into the mounting bracket on the brake pads themselves were shiny (metal ground down) so I believe the pads were the guilty culprit. I took some silicon and lubed the tabs down and reinstalled.

I haven't taken the car back out yet because it's about the rain. Should know whether it was that simple by tomorrow.

Thanks for the input everyone.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 07-11-2010, 04:05 PM

Further update. it is definitely quieter now and I don't get a squeal noise now until I actually step on the brake; opposite as before. WTF? Again, it is intermittent with the tire rotation. If I am going faster and step on the brake, I hear the squeal (metal on metal sound) more often..pretty much once for every time the tire turns.

Also, upon coming to a stop, it doesn't squeal real loud anymore.

Going to check the caliper pins tomorrow night. Should of done this when I had it apart

At least the inside of my rim is dust free now

**00ls-1** · 07-11-2010, 04:10 PM

when you put caliper grease on the pin go ahead and do the back of the pad wherever it touches any metal itll cut down on vibration and alot of times the squealing is vibration
or your rotor might be a little warped and making it make contact when that part of the rotor comes around

**35th-ANV-SS** · 07-11-2010, 04:14 PM

Originally Posted by 00ls-1

when you put caliper grease on the pin go ahead and do the back of the pad wherever it touches any metal itll cut down on vibration and alot of times the squealing is vibration
or your rotor might be a little warped and making it make contact when that part of the rotor comes around

Yeah, the rotor being bad was another thought of mine. I had the front ones go bad on me even though the pads were still like new last year. I went ahead and just replaced both front rotors with new pads and left the backs alone as they still looked new.

Is there a way to check if a rotor is bad? Only way I can think of is taking maybe calipers and measuring at different locations or setting it on a leveling table and check with a height gauge.

Might just be easier to go ahead and replace the backs...even though the pads look brand new still. Car has 19K on the odometer. Rear brakes/rotors are original with the car.

**00ls-1** · 07-11-2010, 04:21 PM

mileage really doesnt matter if they get hot then maybe swing through a carwash and get wet itll warp the metal...they can be measured with a micrometer and if within specs they can be turned (way cheaper than new ones) orielly does em for like $8 each and if ur cool with em alot of times theyll only enter it into the computer once or maybe even not at all just give your rotors back alot of shops can turn them too
the specs are usually on the front of the rotor where it goes around the hub or orielly can usually pull it up on their computer

**DaddysZ28** · 07-11-2010, 04:48 PM

I have this same issue. I was told that it's the rotor backing plate thats rubbing when the rotor turns. Was also told that to replace this you have to pull out the rear axles, so my mechanic said its not hurting anything, so just let it rub itself down. Annoying as hell though!!!

**35th-ANV-SS** · 07-11-2010, 04:55 PM

Originally Posted by DaddysZ28

I have this same issue. I was told that it's the rotor backing plate thats rubbing when the rotor turns. Was also told that to replace this you have to pull out the rear axles, so my mechanic said its not hurting anything, so just let it rub itself down. Annoying as hell though!!!

Hmmm...that is interesting to say the least. When I pull it again I will look for any type of wear on the backing plate.

If that's the case, I'll just turn the radio up

**DaddysZ28** · 07-11-2010, 05:49 PM

That's exactly what I do...........just installed headers this weekend, oh, running open headers, haven't heard it since. lol

**00ls-1** · 07-11-2010, 05:53 PM

Originally Posted by DaddysZ28

That's exactly what I do...........just installed headers this weekend, oh, running open headers, haven't heard it since. lol

lol best idea yet

**pajeff02** · 07-11-2010, 06:10 PM

I would still check the caliper pins. Remove your caliper and hang it with a wire so there is no stress on the rubber line. Clean up around the pins so you don't get any debris when you pull them. If they are at all dry, clean and re-lube them with synthetic caliper grease.

Sometimes the steel shims on the back of the pads (depends on brand of brakes) will come loose and squeal. As stated, you can also lube these sparingly to see if it makes a difference. Rotor runout can be check with a dial indicator after bolting the rotor down with the lugnuts.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 07-11-2010, 06:12 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I would still check the caliper pins. Remove your caliper and hang it with a wire so there is no stress on the rubber line. Clean up around the pins so you don't get any debris when you pull them. If they are at all dry, clean and re-lube them with synthetic caliper grease.

Sometimes the steel shims on the back of the pads (depends on brand of brakes) will come loose and squeal. As stated, you can also lube these sparingly to see if it makes a difference. Rotor runout can be check with a dial indicator after bolting the rotor down with the lugnuts.

Thanks again Jeff. I'll check on that tomorrow night after work hopefully. Any idea what acceptable run-out is?

**pajeff02** · 07-11-2010, 06:15 PM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

Thanks again Jeff. I'll check on that tomorrow night after work hopefully. Any idea what acceptable run-out is?

I'd have to go check my book. Unless they were hot enough that you could smell them and then run through water -- it is unlikely that they have warped. As you are well aware, the fronts takes all the abuse so it is unusual for the back ones to fail in that manner.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 07-11-2010, 06:19 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I'd have to go check my book. Unless they were hot enough that you could smell them and then run through water -- it is unlikely that they have warped. As you are well aware, the fronts takes all the abuse so it is unusual for the back ones to fail in that manner.

Yeah I kind of figured. They "feel" OK just by running my fingers across them. I'm going to check the pins and lube the back of the pads and see how that works for me.

I'll let you know in a few days.

**Smittro** · 07-11-2010, 09:48 PM

I had the issue too and found it to be the little metal clips rubbing the top edge of the rotors.. Heat from braking had caused the clips to warp. I simply put the bow back into the clips and the noise was gone.. Don't flame me cause I did'nt read if this was already posted.. sry.. I would not grease anything other than the pins tho, as if the grease makes it's way to the pad area of the rotors it cancould cause the brakes to "grab" under braking...