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Thread: Spark plug removal
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04-16-2006, 08:15 AM #1
Spark plug removal
I'm having trouble getting to the spark plugs on the passenger side. I'm aware of the instructions on InstallU, and I was able to replace all of the drivers side ones no problem. However, there is just way too much stuff in the way on the passenger side in my engine compartment. On this side, I can't get to the rear bolt (of the 2) on the AIR pipe, so I'm not able to get that out of the way. And with that still in the way, I can only get to 2 of the bolts holding the coil pack rail on, so I can't move that out of the way either.
I know most of ya'll do this on a regular basis, so what else should I be doing? Among other things, the A/C accumulator and its various connections interfere quite a bit, but I'm guessing I don't want to disconnect anything from that.
I think I would be in pretty good shape if I could just get the AIR pipe out of the way, but I just can't get to that second bolt. (btw, the bots on my AIR pipe seem to be oriented differently than those shown in the InstallU guide. In the guide, they seem to be side to side with respect to the vehicle, but mine are front and back.) The AIR pipe itself is actually what's primarily intefering with me being able to get at the second bolt. I tried removing the 1st bolt and disconnecting the pipe from the check valve clamp, but it still wouldn't budge.
Also, I'd be willing to go from underneath if that's what ya'll recommend, but it's hard for me to believe that that is going to make it any easier.
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04-16-2006, 10:23 AM #2
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
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- 2,723
The air pipe bolts on mine are front-to-back also. To get to the one closest to the firewall remove the plug wire and use a small socket, then universal, then extension, then ratchet. After the pipe was off I was able to get 2, 4 and 6 without messing with the coil packs - for me #8 was easier from the bottom. You can move the AC lines a little, but yeah, don't disconnect them. I bought new gaskets for the air pipe, but have removed mine twice now and didn't have to use a new one. Don't overtighten the air tube bolts when you replace them - they're kinda rusted sometimes and the torque is only 15 lb ft. Hang in there, you can do it!
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04-17-2006, 05:53 PM #3
Thanks for the tips. I went ahead and picked up a universal joint today. I'll let you know how it goes.
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04-17-2006, 09:04 PM #4
- Join Date
- Mar 2006
- Location
- bakersfield,ca
- Age
- 37
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- 60
black- 01 pontiac transam ws6 m6
i know how to get the bitch plug out quickly #8 simply jack the passenger side up and make sure your car is cooled down and follow the exhaust piep to the cat and up and you will reach the bitch plug with ease with and entension spark plug tool not swivel
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04-22-2006, 11:35 AM #5
I was going to suggest pulling the motor to get that plug out. lol
just kidden glad it went well2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....
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04-22-2006, 06:39 PM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2006
- Location
- murillo, ontario, canada
- Posts
- 63
silver- 2002 TA WS6 A4-Vert
Whiner or not?
my husband changed my spark plugs for me, and he keeps telling me it wasn't easy, blah, blah. He's known for trying to get more payback then he deserves, is he exaggerating for more brownie points? lol he's such a bullsh*tter I can't tell.
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04-22-2006, 06:45 PM #7
Lol its not an easy tasking so you should probly take it easy on him but on the other hand its a guy thing to over ex. on things so we do get the brownie points.
J
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04-22-2006, 06:55 PM #8
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Thornton, CO
- Posts
- 23,773
Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Down to about 45 minutes for a plug swap now. Sometimes longer if #8 gives me trouble.
I take off the coilpack and valvecover on the passenger side. Opens up enough space to access the plugs with bigger hands.
Also, a 1 3/4" extension is a life saver.
I don't use a swivel head.2008 Trailblazer SS
Yank PTB3600, Kooks 1 7/8" LT's, 4" intake, E-fans, Magnaflow, Sonnax kit, tranny cooler, tune.
Lowered, HID's, tinted.
1999 Pontiac Trans Am WS.6 #1747 SOLD
531.1 RWHP 481.3 FT/Pounds all motor.
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04-23-2006, 02:54 AM #9
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Virginia Beach, VA
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- 171
Red- 2000 SS
Originally Posted by caseyWS6
WOW. He did THAT for you? Honey, that's true love.
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04-23-2006, 04:56 AM #10
check the torque stats I thought they were inch pounds for the AIR tube? Could be wrong but 15 foot pounds seems awful tight for that?
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04-23-2006, 08:43 AM #11
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
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- incognito
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- 294
Originally Posted by caseyWS6
i say you should try to get that #8 plug out and see for yourself. go ahead,just try to get your hand in there to find the plug.
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04-23-2006, 09:08 AM #12
lol it is a bioch to get out and on a serious note i think its easier to get out now that i instailed my longtube's but thats just my opin.
J
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04-23-2006, 09:21 AM #13
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Location
- incognito
- Posts
- 294
Originally Posted by sunsetorangess
dude, for sure.
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04-23-2006, 09:59 AM #14
If you jack the car up and go into the passengers side by the catalytic convertor it might be easier to get to the good ol #8. Good luck get your band aids ready.
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04-23-2006, 10:05 AM #15
- Join Date
- Apr 2006
- Location
- murillo, ontario, canada
- Posts
- 63
silver- 2002 TA WS6 A4-Vert
ok ok, brownie points on the way, lol. I did clean out the entire race trailer and living quarters.
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04-23-2006, 02:55 PM #16
Allright, I finally got the AIR pipe off on the passenger's side (using the universal joint) and I was able to take care of the 3 forward plugs, although it's not easy. It would've been a HUGE help if I could've moved the coil pack, but I could only find 3 bolts for that thing (not counting the rear-most one that IU says you don't need to take off to move the thing, though I couldn't get to it anyway), and taking those 3 off wasn't enough to move it. Any tips on getting the coil pack off, Mr. Luos?
Anyway, I'm planning on attacking #8 from underneath, at a later date...we'll see how that goes.
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04-23-2006, 02:59 PM #17
just out of curiosity why are you thinkin about the coil pack when you said your gonna go from underneath?
just wondering
J
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04-23-2006, 03:04 PM #18
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Thornton, CO
- Posts
- 23,773
Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Originally Posted by CKramer
Patience.
I didn't put the last bolt back in.
4 outta 5 should keep it in place.
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04-23-2006, 05:21 PM #19
hmm i'm a firm beleiver if it was there befor you started it should be there when you finish. lol
I also have a large bolt bin and im not sure where they came from
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04-23-2006, 05:29 PM #20
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Thornton, CO
- Posts
- 23,773
Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
That bolt will go back on.
But I think it might be easier to pull the motor to do so.
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