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Spark plug install

This is a discussion on Spark plug install within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I know this have been asked over and over but does any have any good tips to getting that tough ...

  1. #1
    COME AT ME BRO Soltakr's Avatar
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    Spark plug install

    I know this have been asked over and over but does any have any good tips to getting that tough one in the back.

  2. #2
    WTF?! BAIL!
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    I did mine from underneath.

    But we have a mechanic's pit at my house, so I was standing up-not lying down.

    You might be able to do it on your back, I havn't tried it.




    Kinda have to go by feel; you'll get it.

  3. #3
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    pull the coil packs off and life gets much easier.

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    COME AT ME BRO Soltakr's Avatar
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    I asked a tech in my area and he didnt even want to deal with it. He said "last time I had to cut a wrench just to get at it from below"
    The second guy rolled his eyes and said "have fun with that"
    How hard can it be? Its not like I am asking them to do it for free

  5. #5
    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    pull the coil packs off and life gets much easier.
    I leave the bolt near the firewall loose and remove the others, then just lift the front and flip it up out of the way

    3/4 wrench on the end of the plug socket works great for busting it loose

    Boot grease is your best friend

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    I did it from underneath, on my back. Used a cheater bar (hard to get good leverage) to break it loose, and a swivel ratchet. Took about 20-30mins. Not as bad as I thought it would be. Getting the new plug started was the worst part.

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    COME AT ME BRO Soltakr's Avatar
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    thanks for the tips, maybe I'll give it shot.

  8. #8
    Yo Da Lin The Valley..... astyles's Avatar
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    install university has good instructions and pics

  9. #9
    WTF?! BAIL!
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    Oh yeah, to get the new plug started I used the boot off an old plug wire I had, so as to avoid stripping or cross threading.

    Worked pretty well for me.

  10. #10
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Vacuum Hose............

    I've found a NEW piece of vecuum hose that is still VERY flxiable HELPS greatly!!!!!

    Usally even if you don't catch the threads straight it will slip on the hose before it will cross-thread.

    If you don't understand you take the vac. hose and push it over the "tip" of the plug.
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

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    DAMN YOU #8. What a pain. But deffinately doable. Don't pay to get it done by any means. I pulled the wire out from the top and got the plug out from the bottom. Just so you know for the future - if you get long-tube headers plug changes become a breeze.

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    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99blueZ View Post
    DAMN YOU #8. What a pain. But deffinately doable. Don't pay to get it done by any means. I pulled the wire out from the top and got the plug out from the bottom. Just so you know for the future - if you get long-tube headers plug changes become a breeze.

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    Member ProwlerZ's Avatar
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    Just changed mine yesterday, took the coils off like mentioned above, took 15 mins max... well that's after the 2 hours I spent trying to do it with the coils on...
    She's baaaaaccccck...

    '02 Z/28 M6 Hardtop

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    i have a 1997 lt1 camaro i recently put on a vortec supercharger i am geting a ses lite i scan it ,i got code po108 low imput what do that mean

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iris View Post
    i have a 1997 lt1 camaro i recently put on a vortec supercharger i am geting a ses lite i scan it ,i got code po108 low imput what do that mean
    wtf..bud don't high jack this thread create a thread in the forced induction area and ask away.
    mods- suncoast creations hood with functional lt1 style airbox, ls6 intake, QTP longtube headers, QTP ORY, UMI SFC, Adj. LCA with relo brackets, UMI adj. panhard bar, Koni SA and strano springs,Torq Thrust M 17s 9.5 and 10.5 with nitto 555Rs, tuned by Frost
    Quote Originally Posted by Modulistic View Post
    sometimes you get owned, sometimes you own.

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    COME AT ME BRO Soltakr's Avatar
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    Well I'm glad I'm not the only one with this problem... thanks for all the tips

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    swivel and extension

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    Yo Da Lin The Valley..... astyles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99blueZ View Post
    DAMN YOU #8. What a pain. But deffinately doable. Don't pay to get it done by any means. I pulled the wire out from the top and got the plug out from the bottom. Just so you know for the future - if you get long-tube headers plug changes become a breeze.
    i did it the same way....i would say be careful of the heatshield by the cat......that fucker cut the shit out of me

  19. #19
    Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    I don't know if it helps to have LT's or not...but I get all of mine from the top by hand. 95% of the battle is just knowing where the hole is (usually 45 degrees down and towards the back of the car from the exhaust port for that cylinder). I usually rest my left elbow on the front passenger strut tower, grab the plug at the top, twist my arm so that my pinky is at the 12:00 position and my thumb is at the 6:00 position, reach back there and lightly thread it in. This is with the coil packs removed from a car without AIR & EGR...and I'm sure me being 6'2" tall doesn't hurt either. Once you can't turn it by hand any more, reach back the same way with the spark plug socket and get to wrenching. The right ratchet and extensions will make the job easier. You just have to see what works best for you. After my valvespring swap last weekend, I had the plugs, wires and coilpacks back on the motor in under an hour working at a reasonable pace - not rushing. Don't forget the di-electric grease and anti-seze.

  20. #20
    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSpdDmon View Post
    I don't know if it helps to have LT's or not...but I get all of mine from the top by hand. 95% of the battle is just knowing where the hole is (usually 45 degrees down and towards the back of the car from the exhaust port for that cylinder). I usually rest my left elbow on the front passenger strut tower, grab the plug at the top, twist my arm so that my pinky is at the 12:00 position and my thumb is at the 6:00 position, reach back there and lightly thread it in. This is with the coil packs removed from a car without AIR & EGR...and I'm sure me being 6'2" tall doesn't hurt either. Once you can't turn it by hand any more, reach back the same way with the spark plug socket and get to wrenching. The right ratchet and extensions will make the job easier. You just have to see what works best for you. After my valvespring swap last weekend, I had the plugs, wires and coilpacks back on the motor in under an hour working at a reasonable pace - not rushing. Don't forget the di-electric grease and anti-seze.

    I am about to do this again and am excited. I know I had the right tools before...now I just have to find the fuckers. I remember buying all sorts of shit, but it made the job easy for my first time.

    I dont remember using any of the bolded text. Where do you put the di-electric grease? on the plug end where it meets the wire? Anti-seeze goes on the threads, I am sure..

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