Some engine codes

**Tx98Formula** · 02-25-2010, 06:40 PM

For a while i have been getting a code for Bank 1 sensor 1 O2 no activity, come to find out that O2 sensor wasn't even hooked up because the previous owner put on LT headers and never got the extensions. anyways i got an extension hooked it up took it for a drive and after the car would warm up a little bit (around 170ish) it was start to hesitate and sputter intermittently and still got the no activity code.
I found that where the O2 extension plugs into the harness, there is a group of wires after that and there was a grounding strap that wasn't grounded it was just hanging there. I grounded that strap and took it for a drive and once again once it warmed up a little bit it started to sputter again, i stopped in a parking lot and looked under the hood didn't see any loose wires or anything like that. got back into the car and got on it a little bit, after i let off the gas it kicked out a ses light, i got a P0102, P0135, and P0155.

I did some research and already checked the eng sen fuse, it looked good, i don't have a volt meter so i cant check the pink wire on the MAF. I read about some people saying to unplug the MAF and see if it runs better after that, how does that work, won't the car still run bad with that not pluged in?

sorry for the long post but i really need some help here, i haven't had this car running right since i have had it and i'm sick of it, i just want to be able to drive this damn thing once..

**35th-ANV-SS** · 02-25-2010, 08:47 PM

Well the P0102 could be stemming from a dirty MAF. Have you tried cleaning that?

When you hooked back up the O2 sensors, did you make sure to route the wiring harness well away from the LTs? Make sure you don't have a melted wire that may have came into contact with the header. I'm just saying these options first because these don't really cost you any money.

**Tx98Formula** · 02-26-2010, 01:29 AM

i routed the harness as far away as i could from the LT's, i'll double check the harness just to make sure it hasn't touched them anywhere. This morning after i get off of work i'm going to pick up a can of MAF cleaner and try that to see what it does. someone told me to disconnect the MAF and see if the hesitation stops, i haven't tried that yet either.

**Tx98Formula** · 02-26-2010, 06:33 AM

ok i got home from work this morning cleaned the MAF put it back together, i backed out of my driveway and everything was good in reverse, as soon as i put it in drive the car stalled, i restarted put it back in D it sputtered kind of lunged forward then died again.. I disconnected the MAF and took it for a drive around the block, got on it twice and had no issues, no sputtering, no hesitation, nothing... So am i looking at a bad MAF?

what if i just left it disconnected? would leaving the MAF disconnected cause me anyother problems? the car just seems to run so much better with it disconnected..

**Ripinator** · 02-26-2010, 09:35 AM

Subbed. . .

**sunsetorangess** · 02-26-2010, 11:40 AM

Is it a stock Maf or Aftermarket unit?
I would check the 02 harness again and ensure its not melted. Did you use pre-fabbed extensions or did you make your own?
You are going to need your Maf hooked up for driveability... IM somewhat surprised it ran decent around the block...
Are there any other modifications done to the car?
J

**Tx98Formula** · 02-26-2010, 02:25 PM

as far as i know its a stock MAF, looks stock at least, and the guy i bought the car from basically didn't know alot about it, i guess when he bought he just didn't ask any questions about the car..
I'm going to check the O2 harness tomorrow and as for the extensions, the passenger side O2 was hooked up, i replaced that O2 sensor because of a code, so it has a new bosch in there, not sure if its a pre-fabbed extension or not i didn't mess with that one to much. For the driver side that O2 sensor wasn't hooked up, i'm guessing for a while so that O2 might be bad, the extension i bought from the WS6 store.com and just installed it last week.

For mods the car has LT headers, K&N filter with SLP lid, flowmaster muffler, manual cut-out, small cam (don't know the specs on the cam) and it has a tune that i had done by solomon at LT1performance tuning, and it is a 98 formula LS1 A4.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 02-26-2010, 02:41 PM

If you can get a hold of a voltmeter......You can usually do a quick check of the MAF by tapping on the flat portion of the sensor body with a screwdriver while the car is running. If the engine stumbles or stalls, the sensor is faulty.

You can also check voltage with the ignition key turned to the on position, car not running. Check the voltage on terminal B ground (black/white) and terminal A (yellow). There should be between 4-6 volts .

Last, you can check the battery voltage to the MAF with the ignition key turned to the on position, car not running across terminals B ground (black/white) and terminal C (pink). Should read 12 volts.

This is from the Haynes manual for 1998 V8's.

**Tx98Formula** · 02-27-2010, 07:24 PM

well today i changed the bank 1 sensor 1 O2. Due to the LT headers it was a big PITA and i had to unbolt the header to get it in (which of course i cross threaded one of the bolts so now i have an exhaust leak but that will be fixed soon) Got that done and took it for a drive, no hesitation, no sputters, no P0102 light.. I tapped the MAF with a screw driver and the motor never missed a beat... so i'm guessing the cleaning of the MAF helped that..

I am however still getting lights for low volt on both O2's, both of them are brand new sensors, the harnesses look good also.. tonight i took it for about an hour drive.. went WOT quite a few times, raced a toyota Xrunner from a 30roll, as soon as i stopped spinning i put half a car on him and he let off.. but never had any hesitations or anything, i did get P0131, P0151, P0154 lights though.. so i know the car isn't 100% yet but damn she can still move!!