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so i got the car tuned

This is a discussion on so i got the car tuned within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Boomer Sooner sorry for the thread jack but i have a question regarding a "dynotune". what exactly ...

  1. #21
    Member slpdablueZ28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boomer Sooner View Post
    sorry for the thread jack but i have a question regarding a "dynotune". what exactly is it? what do they do? for example, i have a 99z28, with only free ram air mod, k and n filter, no cats and a flowmaster 40 series. if i were to take it to a shop and said i want a dynotune what all would that consist of(what would they do)? besides tell me to get lost and come back when i have some more mods. thanks.
    well wat they did for me was get me a diablo predator and dyno run run and tuning. u should probably wait for at least header before u get a tune.

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    Quote Originally Posted by slpdablueZ28 View Post
    well wat they did for me was get me a diablo predator and dyno run run and tuning. u should probably wait for at least header before u get a tune.
    i c. yea, im not going to "waste" the money on a tune for my car anytime soon, i was just curious. and by "waste", i mean refering to my situation only. if i had more mods i would definetly(sp?) get a tune.

  3. #23
    Member slpdablueZ28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sommer86 View Post
    AFR is your Air/fuel ratio. It tells you how lean or rich your car is running.

    And you really should be running it on 91 (thats what we have here in cali) or 93 because your car will/should ping like hell, and your car wasn't meant to be run on cheap ass gas. It's even in the manual that 89 should be the lowest.

    The tune woke it up, but if you spend $1.60 more a fill up, you'll REALLY have a fun car. Honestly, is $1.60 or $3.20 a week not worth it to you and the overall life of your "DREAM CAR"??? It's less than a sixer at the liquor store (unless it's PBR, lol). Do yourself a favor and spend 3 bucks more a week on your car

    Trust me.
    .
    yeah i guess ur right, i did get the car when i was 19 though. 11k for the car plus insurance, upgrades, repairs, and all that has been tapping me out. plus everything else i need. im just a kid who tries to do wat he can. ny does have high gas prices, and i recently heard that western ny (i go to college in buffalo) has the second highest gas prices in the country. so i try to save wherever i can. but gas prices did drop a lot recent so i might start using the good stuff.

  4. #24
    Join the PHK @ thephk.org Sommer86@6LE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boomer Sooner View Post
    sorry for the thread jack but i have a question regarding a "dynotune". what exactly is it? what do they do? for example, i have a 99z28, with only free ram air mod, k and n filter, no cats and a flowmaster 40 series. if i were to take it to a shop and said i want a dynotune what all would that consist of(what would they do)? besides tell me to get lost and come back when i have some more mods. thanks.
    sorry for the coming novel.....

    A dyno tune is simply "tuning" your car on a dynometer. It will, for all intents and purposes, simulate your car driving, and real time adjustments will be made to your cars computer. It allows you to tune areas such as: your throttle body in the wide open throttle position, full closed posion, adjust timing, adjust A/F ratios, maf tables, shift points, gear ratios, etc.

    It's a tool. It's simply to give the tuner feedback as the car is actually running, and under load.

    As for you getting tuned, i'd wait until you got more mods done. Usually if you mod one part, there is another part that will correspond to that mod. if you do both, then you'd see even more gains. Example: If you were doing heads and cam, you need to let the spent gasses out, right? It would be dumb to not do headers first, or at the same time. etc., etc.

    If you tuned your car you might see gains from 10rwhp to 30rwhp. But if you changed something, like the intake or thermostat or put headers on, or change your gears, your tune goes right out the window (and your $$$ too) since your car wont know it has changed, and runs the newly modded car with the old "tune" .... If your car is right where you want it, and you're not going to touch it....then go for it....but it probably wont be worth the $400 or so you're going to spend to tune it.

    I say wait, throw a couple more things on, and feel it out. with simple bolt-ons, all you might really want to change is your a/f ratios.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sommer86 View Post
    sorry for the coming novel.....

    A dyno tune is simply "tuning" your car on a dynometer. It will, for all intents and purposes, simulate your car driving, and real time adjustments will be made to your cars computer. It allows you to tune areas such as: your throttle body in the wide open throttle position, full closed posion, adjust timing, adjust A/F ratios, maf tables, shift points, gear ratios, etc.

    It's a tool. It's simply to give the tuner feedback as the car is actually running, and under load.

    As for you getting tuned, i'd wait until you got more mods done. Usually if you mod one part, there is another part that will correspond to that mod. if you do both, then you'd see even more gains. Example: If you were doing heads and cam, you need to let the spent gasses out, right? It would be dumb to not do headers first, or at the same time. etc., etc.

    If you tuned your car you might see gains from 10rwhp to 30rwhp. But if you changed something, like the intake or thermostat or put headers on, or change your gears, your tune goes right out the window (and your $$$ too) since your car wont know it has changed, and runs the newly modded car with the old "tune" .... If your car is right where you want it, and you're not going to touch it....then go for it....but it probably wont be worth the $400 or so you're going to spend to tune it.

    I say wait, throw a couple more things on, and feel it out. with simple bolt-ons, all you might really want to change is your a/f ratios.
    thank you for the more "in-depth" information/description.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sommer86 View Post
    *POSSIBLE DICK ALERT*

    Question. Was the guy tuning your car just some guy, or was he a reputable shop? I ask only because I thing it seems REALLY low. Under 3 stock? Really? i'm not trying to brag or be a dick, but i'm 341, stock...well almost stock. No headers, no tune, and no pulleys. Just lid, K&N, and a dyno mouth exhaust. I've been told it's a factory freak, but it's not the only freak i know.

    If you see /have dyno days in your area soon, i'd do it. You might be pulling better than you think.

    Oh, and what kind of dyno was it?

    Like i sadi, I'm not tryingto trash you or brag, it just seems really low (base numbers) for an '02. i'm an '01 A4!!
    I have a 01 Z28 (Sara), A4, stock motor, lid (free ram air), catback, Y3000 2.0 STR, 3.73 coupled to 18X9.5" rims (11 inches of rubber), correctly dyno tuned on dyno jet AFR WOT 13.3:1, Here are my numbers:

    293RWHP/345RWTQ (305RWTQ @ 5400RPM)

    The vehicle runs like a raped ape, DON'T GET HUNG UP ON THE NUMBERS.

    SteveC
    Last edited by SteveC; 11-15-2008 at 05:54 AM.

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    I agree not to get hung up on numbers and there only bragging rights although with the printout he posted, looks kinda rough. And for them to baseline under 300, Seems kinda low. Honestly i would pull of the Maf and go back to the stocker, run a few tanks of prem through the tank and stick with it, ensure your plus and wires are in good shape and no exhaust leaks and see if your turner will through it back on the dyno.
    Personaly my tuner only charges me for dyno time after the intial tune purchase. Just an idear, its your car and if your happy with it thats all that matters.
    J
    2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....

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    Member slpdablueZ28's Avatar
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    well dont have the stock maf anymore, but yeah the car seems to be running a lot better now. but yeah ill start throwing some premium see how it runs on that

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    by the way any ideas about that huge spike in the graph? it was 2-3 shift

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    Join the PHK @ thephk.org Sommer86@6LE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveC View Post

    The vehicle runs like a raped ape, DON'T GET HUNG UP ON THE NUMBERS.

    SteveC

    Well said, Steve C

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    A4 im guessing, if so its probly in the tune, ie line pressure.
    J

  12. #32
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    so what should the AFR's be tuned to on ls1's with stock internals and bolt-ons at WOT? 13.0s-13.5s? there is a couple of guys that i know that have their AFR's tuned to 14.0s and they have stock internals, been running like that for 3 years now, all those cars are daily's. just wondering how could they do that without melting their pistons?

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    Quote Originally Posted by OMGls1jz View Post
    so what should the AFR's be tuned to on ls1's with stock internals and bolt-ons at WOT? 13.0s-13.5s? there is a couple of guys that i know that have their AFR's tuned to 14.0s and they have stock internals, been running like that for 3 years now, all those cars are daily's. just wondering how could they do that without melting their pistons?
    In California, when you smog the vehicle, the smog machine looks for a AFR of 14.7 (not @ WOT) which is a lean condition set by the factory, SO in conclusion, I believe a AFR of 14.0 @ WOT is too lean of a ratio also.

    Alot of tuners set lean AFR's to squeeze out all possible HP that they can, I would rather save the motor and run it a bit richer.

    JMHO,

    SteveC

  14. #34
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Yes 14.0 is much too lean for a WOT AFR. Every engine is different but most naturally aspirated motors will make best power from 12.5 up to about 13.2 AFR. Only a chassis dyno or testing at the track will tell you for sure where your engine likes it. Elevation will play a roll in this as well.

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