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smoke coming out of engine after seafoam ?

This is a discussion on smoke coming out of engine after seafoam ? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I just seafoamed my car, 2000 camaro z28 with about 40k miles. I have just placed seafoam in the engine ...

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    smoke coming out of engine after seafoam ?

    I just seafoamed my car, 2000 camaro z28 with about 40k miles. I have just placed seafoam in the engine and the gas tank. drove 200 miles, did an oil change and started her up. there was lots of white smoke coming out of the engine, is that normal ? The smoke smelled like burnt new oil. This is my first time using GC 0w-30 after using the mobil 1.

    is this normal ? thanks

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    Chances are it will clear up after a few miles of driving.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jinxeng View Post
    I just seafoamed my car, 2000 camaro z28 with about 40k miles. I have just placed seafoam in the engine and the gas tank. drove 200 miles, did an oil change and started her up. there was lots of white smoke coming out of the engine, is that normal ? The smoke smelled like burnt new oil. This is my first time using GC 0w-30 after using the mobil 1.

    is this normal ? thanks
    Nothing to do with the Seafoam ?
    But why would you put 0W-30 iun your engine.......?
    that weight is designed for NEW imports that have Crazy TIGHT tollerences on the bearings.

    Is it -30*below were you live.......If not there would be NO reason to run that oil!!!!
    Your valve seals are made to hold back oil that has "regular" viscosity...........0W-30 is SOO thin when it's cold.
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    Nothing to do with the Seafoam ?
    But why would you put 0W-30 iun your engine.......?
    that weight is designed for NEW imports that have Crazy TIGHT tollerences on the bearings.

    Is it -30*below were you live.......If not there would be NO reason to run that oil!!!!
    Your valve seals are made to hold back oil that has "regular" viscosity...........0W-30 is SOO thin when it's cold.
    yea man 5w or 10w..0w is asking for trouble

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    that might be a reason why you are getting white smoke..watch your oil levels CLOSELY! your oil might be seeping threw the seals and such and getting burned

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    Exactlly what I was saying!!!

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    Wait a minute guys....0-30 is still 30 weight.....and a very heavy 30 weight at that in GC.....dont forget a couple of facts.....
    the "0" is just the pour rate cold.....in actuality a 0 weight gets to critical parts quicker than a 5 or 10 weight and start up is where 90% of your critical parts wear occurs......very quickly the oil viscosity enhancers thicken up to a 30 weight...and in the case of GC this op temp thickness is damn near a 40 weight......you lose sight of the fact the way SAE figures viscosities...a 30 weight can be a 30-39 weight and still be called a 30 weight....GC is like a 38 weight ...also the film thickness is outstanding with GC as it is with Royal Purple/Amsoil and RedLine....in other words it clings to the metal very very well......versus draining back into your oil pan.....and GC does not shear....in other words your out beating on your engine it maintains its thickness versus shearing to a 20 weight or less as many motor oils do....Mobil1 5-40 is notorious for shearing to a low 30 weight under extremes.....so GC 0-30 is a great choice for his car......
    As for the SeaFoam (great stuff by the way)....yup....your gonna smoke and it is gonna smell like oil because the SeaFoam is doing its job of cleaning...and the oil is the carrier median SeaFoam is using to get pushed around inside your motor....no big thang However...I would have used a dino oil for the SeaFoam project as you need to change your oil so quickly with it in there....( I understand or guess this is exactly what you did)....then I would run a 2000 mile or so run of quality dino like Castrol/Pennzoil or Havoline to finish the rinse or flush cycle....SeaFoam will break stuff up that doesnt drain out first time....and the 2nd phase of this project would be a flushing phase that carries all the crap SeaFoam broke up to the filter.....
    Last edited by Sarge; 11-19-2006 at 05:36 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Wait a minute guys....0-30 is still 30 weight.....and a very heavy 30 weight at that in GC.....dont forget a couple of facts.....
    the "0" is just the pour rate cold.....in actuality a 0 weight gets to critical parts quicker than a 5 or 10 weight and start up is where 90% of your critical parts wear occurs......very quickly the oil viscosity enhancers thicken up to a 30 weight...and in the case of GC this op temp thickness is damn near a 40 weight......you lose sight of the fact the way SAE figures viscosities...a 30 weight can be a 30-39 weight and still be called a 30 weight....GC is like a 38 weight ...also the film thickness is outstanding with GC as it is with Royal Purple/Amsoil and RedLine....in other words it clings to the metal very very well......versus draining back into your oil pan.....and GC does not shear....in other words your out beating on your engine it maintains its thickness versus shearing to a 20 weight or less as many motor oils do....Mobil1 5-40 is notorious for shearing to a low 30 weight under extremes.....so GC 0-30 is a great choice for his car......
    As for the SeaFoam (great stuff by the way)....yup....your gonna smoke and it is gonna smell like oil because the SeaFoam is doing its job of cleaning...and the oil is the carrier median SeaFoam is using to get pushed around inside your motor....no big thang However...I would have used a dino oil for the SeaFoam project as you need to change your oil so quickly with it in there....( I understand or guess this is exactly what you did)....then I would run a 2000 mile or so run of quality dino like Castrol/Pennzoil or Havoline to finish the rinse or flush cycle....SeaFoam will break stuff up that doesnt drain out first time....and the 2nd phase of this project would be a flushing phase that carries all the crap SeaFoam broke up to the filter.....
    we are not worthy

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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    we are not worthy
    Yeah you are....just misinformed

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Yeah you are....just misinformed
    lol i agree 100 percent..i will now go out and spead the new good word to the people about oil and its weight!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Yeah you are....just misinformed
    Well the viscosity of the 0W-30 is still going to be thinner at 48* during intial start-up then a oil that is 10W-30........ And I'd be willing to bet that that motor has over a 100,000 miles on it or so...... Ring tention is No where near what it once was nor is the valve guide tollerences... So I have personally ran into this on customers vehicals before that it basically seeps past when cold and thin and smokes during start up, until oil was changed back to a "normal" weight.
    All I say is what I've seen first hand Sarge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    Well the viscosity of the 0W-30 is still going to be thinner at 48* during intial start-up then a oil that is 10W-30........ And I'd be willing to bet that that motor has over a 100,000 miles on it or so...... Ring tention is No where near what it once was nor is the valve guide tollerences... So I have personally ran into this on customers vehicals before that it basically seeps past when cold and thin and smokes during start up, until oil was changed back to a "normal" weight.
    All I say is what I've seen first hand Sarge.
    Well now dont get defensive on me now
    Hell yes 0 is thinner at start up than 10....damn well better be! And gets to critical parts a bunch quicker also....and putting in thicker oil to "fix" things is just plain wrong.....what do you do as the problem progresses...go to a straight 50 weight? Fix the problems I say versus changing weights of oil to keep the oil from passing through worn/defective seals/gaskets/ring packs.....because when you do that...the thicker oils are also not getting to critical parts quickly on start up (90%of all wear is when cold) and causing even more wear....so your not doing anybody any favors...your just making the ultimate overhaul time come quicker ....

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    wow Sarge is the man! i have learned more about oil reading his post than i would have ever thought there was to know.....

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    Not getting defensive sarge don't worry........
    I'll NEVER run that thin of s__t in ANYTHING of mine!!!!! With break down from blow-by that turns into the thinnest liquid EVER!!!!
    If I'm that worried about oil getting there that fast I'd runn a pre-oiler or a Moroso accum........ We run Calico coated bearings on all the race stuff that can run without oil for twice as long as it takes our 20w-50 to make it, out here in AZ.
    NEVER had any bad looking bearings even with the the "cheap" h-series Clevites.
    I couldn't see the benefits of have intial blow by with oil contaminating the cyl. on ever start up.....We use LOTS of NOS and oil = DETONATION
    It's all personal preference........

    STILL WAITING ON PICS FROM DA BODY-SHOP......

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    Quote Originally Posted by astyles View Post
    wow Sarge is the man! i have learned more about oil reading his post than i would have ever thought there was to know.....
    shhh sarge just copy and pasted it off of wikipedia too look like he knew what he was talking about j/k

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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    Not getting defensive sarge don't worry........
    I'll NEVER run that thin of s__t in ANYTHING of mine!!!!! With break down from blow-by that turns into the thinnest liquid EVER!!!!
    If I'm that worried about oil getting there that fast I'd runn a pre-oiler or a Moroso accum........ We run Calico coated bearings on all the race stuff that can run without oil for twice as long as it takes our 20w-50 to make it, out here in AZ.
    NEVER had any bad looking bearings even with the the "cheap" h-series Clevites.
    I couldn't see the benefits of have intial blow by with oil contaminating the cyl. on ever start up.....We use LOTS of NOS and oil = DETONATION
    It's all personal preference........

    STILL WAITING ON PICS FROM DA BODY-SHOP......
    Well now we run 0 weight in the Super Comp car for a reason Of course we dont run it for long Now a street beast is a different story....and we are talking to guys here that arent super modified running NOS aren't we....it's all about bearing clearances and engine pressure...be it NOS or FI....compression ratios etc. etc....all have a impact on what weight of oil one would use.....so I am sensitive of dishing out a statement based on a FI/NOS monster to some guy who has headers and a CAI....I know you know your shit man....but often times we forget not everybody has "our" cars 0-30 GC is great oil and viscosity for this guys (the string starters) ride.....better than most out there for sure and I dont want to confuse the issue he is having with a debate of what runs better in a highly modified ride with his ride....As for the blow by.....we run the highest tolerances on our heads/valve assemblies....catch can and of course no PCV system...we have zero blow by....

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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    shhh sarge just copy and pasted it off of wikipedia too look like he knew what he was talking about j/k
    LOL Wikipedia copied me!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    LOL Wikipedia copied me!
    lol right....... j/k

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    So proper procedure for seafoam is??? I run Syntec 5w30.

    Change oil/oil filter (dino Castrol)....run seafoam for 200 miles...change oil/oil filter (dino Castrol)...change oil/oil filter (Syntec)???

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    thanks to everyone who replied. big thanks to THE sarge for sharing your wisdom

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