Security System

[Deaton52]

I'm having problems with my car starting. When I put my key in and turn it nothing happens. My security system will not deactivate. I have tried the vats bypass, but that didn't work. I went and bought a new battery, and I even went to the dealer and got a new key because I thought maybe the resistor was bad in my old key, but that didn't work either. I know my security system won't deactivate because when I unlock my door with the key, instead of keyless entry, and I put my key in the ignition and turn it the alarm still goes off. Any ideas on how to fix my problem.

[Cutlass]

I'm having problems with my car starting. When I put my key in and turn it nothing happens. My security system will not deactivate. I have tried the vats bypass, but that didn't work. I went and bought a new battery, and I even went to the dealer and got a new key because I thought maybe the resistor was bad in my old key, but that didn't work either. I know my security system won't deactivate because when I unlock my door with the key, instead of keyless entry, and I put my key in the ignition and turn it the alarm still goes off. Any ideas on how to fix my problem.

The alarm and the VATS are 2 different things.

It is normal for the alarm to go off if you unlock the door with the key and then turn on the ignition. To disarm the alarm you need to use the key FOB or the power door lock switch and then turn on the ignition.

But it does sound like you still have a problem with the VATS. The bypass should fix that. Are you sure its installed correctly and the resistor is the correct resistance?

If the VATS is properly bypass then it could be something else wrong with the starting system. It could be the starter relay, the neutral safety switch (automatic car), the clutch pedal switch, the starter, maybe a fuse, or the ignition switch.

[Deaton52]

Putting the key in the ignition and turning it used to deactivate the alarm, it no longer does. Also, the bypass is installed correctly. The resistors match my key and they are soldered inline on the correct side of the wiring. I also checked the ohms at the plug and got the resistance of my key so I figured out the bypass wouldn't work anyway. I have checked and even replaced the fuses and relays. If the bcm is going bad could it cause these problems.

[Cutlass]

yeah my bad, the alarm can be disarmed that way in some cases. I had to look up the whole disarming info in the service manual. Here's what it says.

Disarming an Armed System/Silencing an Alarm
If system arming has been requested by the power door lock switch or the keyless entry transmitter, it must be disarmed.

Important: Using the power door unlock switch or manually unlocking the doors does not disable the CTD arm mode. Also, disconnecting the battery or pulling fuses does not disable the arm mode, since the BCM stores the CTD mode status in memory.

• To disarm the CTD system in standby mode (theft LED flashing and door(s) open), perform one of the following:

- Press either power door unlock switch.

- Press the UNLOCK button on the keyless entry transmitter.

- Insert a valid key into the ignition and switch to the ON position.

• To disarm the CTD system in the armed mode:

- Press the UNLOCK button on the keyless entry transmitter.

- Insert a valid key into the ignition and switch to the ON position

• To disarm the CTD system when activated (alarming mode).

- Press the UNLOCK button on the keyless entry transmitter.

- Insert a valid key into the ignition and switch to the ON position.

Driver's Door Delay
Unlocking the door or the rear compartment lift window panel with the use of a key will not disarm the system. The BCM is factory set with a drivers door delay. The drivers door delay gives the driver 8 seconds to turn the ignition key ON after the drivers door is unlocked with a key. The drivers door delay can be set for no delay time if the customer prefers disarming the alarm with the transmitter. If the drivers door delay is set for no delay time, any entry without the transmitter will activate the alarm.

So it looks like you have to be within the 8 second driver's door delay unless the BCM is setup for a different delay or a zero delay. In that case you'll need to use the key fob or power door lock switch.

If the bcm is going bad could it cause these problems.

Yes that could also be causing your problems.

[Deaton52]

Also, I don't know if this will help any, but it did this whole not starting thing a couple months ago. Each time I had to disconnect my battery for about 20 mins, and then my car would start. This only happened about 5 times, and then the starting problem went away. Now about 4 months later it started fine, I drove to the gas station, and then wouldn't start. If it is the bcm will resoldering fix this problem, or would I need a whole new bcm.

[Cutlass]

I think the resoldering trick is for a problem with power windows and radio issues. I'm not sure it'll fix your problem.

It does sound like some sort of module problem since disconnecting the battery would kinda reset a computer and allow it to start...but that's by no means a definite diagnosis. More like a piece to a puzzle.

If you think the ignition switch, starter relay, starter, neutral safety/clutch switch, fuses, wiring/connections, and connectors are ok, then the BCM is a good, educated guess.