security light, wont start

**sic2001** · 02-28-2006, 12:13 AM

It rained today and I went out to my cart, clicked the remote and nothing. The dome light went on and off for a few seconds then went off. The gauge lights ,head lights, windows all work, just seems that the security system has engaged and wont let the car turn over. The remote does not chirp the car and I replaced the battery in it. Theres plenty of juce in the auto battery as well. Anybody run into this before? Id hate to take it to the dealer just to be butt raped and sent on my way in 15 min after a quick poke under the hood by them. I need some help fellas and this is my first post.

**sic2001** · 02-28-2006, 12:20 AM

Ive reset the pcm and disconnected the battery for 15 min too and still nothing. Where is the factory alarm anyway?

**Danger731** · 02-28-2006, 02:50 AM

I think by the spare ?
Is the chip still in your ignition key ?

**sic2001** · 02-28-2006, 06:34 AM

chip is in key and the shock senser is in the back I know but anyway to disconnect it?

**keliente** · 02-28-2006, 07:41 AM

Try security relearn?

SECURITY RELEARN PROCEDURE

1. Attempt to start the car by turning the key to the Start/Run Position.
2. Observe that the vehicle fails to start and that the security light is illuminated.
3. Release key to the 'ON/RUN’ Position (not the accesories Position or to the 'off' position.)
4. Allow the vehicle to sit with the key in the 'ON/RUN' Position for no less than 11 minutes.
5. Turn key to off position and allow the vehicle to remain in the 'OFF' position for no less than 30 seconds.
6. Repeat #1 - #5 for 3 cycles.
7. On 4th attempt, car should start.
NOTE : Since this is a fairly long procedure, I would limit all electrical sources, such as shutting off headlights and AC fans, to prevent discharge of battery.
NOTE 2 : It is SAFE to wait LONGER than the allotted time, but it is not safe to wait less time. I.e. 12 minutes instead of 11 minutes should be safe; however, waiting 10 minutes instead of 11 minutes is not safe.
Properly executed, this procedure should take approximately 35 minutes to complete.

**sic2001** · 02-28-2006, 02:09 PM

Ill let ya know how it goes thanks! I already took it to the dealership and them guys want 917.00 to replace the cylinder lock , security mod and 2 new keys!! Theyre crazy!! Man I hope this works..

**sic2001** · 02-28-2006, 03:35 PM

well they said 917.00 to replace the cylinder lock and 2 keys and theft modulater. Does that sound right to you guys? I live in O.C. calif.

**ss~zoso~ss** · 02-28-2006, 04:35 PM

no dont do it , try every thing you can to fix it yourself, they are going to try to rape your for everything you are worth

**sic2001** · 02-28-2006, 04:41 PM

I told them to leave it alone and Ill tow it somewhere else. A differnt dealership quoted me 400.00 so I know they tried to do me. That sounds more like it.

**Black 99 Bird** · 02-28-2006, 04:59 PM

This sounds like a common problem with GM's VATS system. The "chip" in your ignition key is actually a resistor that is matched with your cars computer. I had to replace the ignition cylinder on my car at about 50K miles because the wire that sends the resistor signal to the PCM broke off the cylinder. There is a way to bypass this, I later found out after I had my car towed to a dealer and repaired. The guy that runs the garage where I have my car worked on now told me you can put a inline resistor in the wire that goes to the PCM and you can bypass the VATS system all together. Maybe someone on here knows how to do this? You will need to find the resistance in the "chip" in your ignition key so you can match it to a resistor you can buy at radio shack and go from there. Good luck!

**sic2001** · 03-01-2006, 08:16 PM

the next dealer said the Vats is fine, that there is something else wrong. Any ideas form here?

**sic2001** · 03-02-2006, 11:10 AM

just to finish the thread, the dealerships were stumped or confused so I had a look AGAIN and the BCM was FULL of water from the day befores rain. So...
1. 210.00 for new BCM
2. 85.00 for reprogramming
3. 2 tows from AAA (free)
4. Twin brothers fresh look and corre`t diagnostic...priceless

The give away for this problem was the intermittant clicking comming from under the glove box upon reset of PCM or Vats system.

**YoMommasTA** · 03-02-2006, 05:37 PM

odd problem,good you found it

.figures the dealer wrenches didn't have a clue.i see the same thing all time,people bring me cars dealers have messed with 3-4 times changing all kinds of parts just to have the same trouble.i always disconnect the harrness running from the key to vats signal generator and replace it with the proper resistor.it saves alot of headaches down the road.another good place to look when you get weird problems starting is the pcm connections and the fuse box relays.i also have a square wave generator i can hook up to completely take the vats out of the picture.funny the dealers don't know about this?