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Secondary Air: Diagnosing and Removal

This is a discussion on Secondary Air: Diagnosing and Removal within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; The pump only runs for a short time after cold startup. Have you pulled the hoses to make sure nothing ...

  1. #101
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    The pump only runs for a short time after cold startup. Have you pulled the hoses to make sure nothing is stuck in the pump?

    If you decide you need a pump, let me know.

  2. #102
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    The pump in my car seems to run whenever it wants to. I get that whining noise on and off regardless of the engine temp.

  3. #103
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    Pull either the secondary air pump fuse or the relay to see if that stops the noise. You'll get an SES light, but it'll verify that it is the pump making the noise and not something else.

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    That's how I determined it was the pump, by pulling the fuse. Should it be running even after the car has warmed up?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ws6Poncho View Post
    That's how I determined it was the pump, by pulling the fuse. Should it be running even after the car has warmed up?
    . No, only after initial start up.
    It's on jackstands.

  6. #106
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    I would have to crack the books to see what may be causing it to run after the engine warms up. Not sure if it triggers shut down via the engine temp or a timer.

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    Instead of trying to fix it, I would really rather delete the whole system. Anybody from New York ever do this, and does it hinder getting an inspection?

  8. #108
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    can the check valve fail to the point of not being able to pass air to the exhaust? My pump is working, but there is no air after either check valve. It's a 99 T/A.

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    If there is no air at either check valve, it is likely that the vacuum solenoid or diverter valve is the issue. It is possible that both check valves are plugged up or the stand pipes. I presume you are disconnecting the hoses at the check valves to check for flow? As noted in earlier, the system only comes on for around 45 seconds after cold startup. The rest of the time it should not be blowing any air.

  10. #110
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    Thanks again pajeff !!

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    Happy to assist.

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    Thumbs up thanks

    Pajeff02, man I appreciate your write up it was very helpful, I got my wife's a/c working right and I had to order the little air pump solenoid. thanks again for the write up!

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by deere140 View Post
    Pajeff02, man I appreciate your write up it was very helpful, I got my wife's a/c working right and I had to order the little air pump solenoid. thanks again for the write up!
    What was the part number and where did u get it I've been looking but I haven't been able to find it

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by deere140 View Post
    Pajeff02, man I appreciate your write up it was very helpful, I got my wife's a/c working right and I had to order the little air pump solenoid. thanks again for the write up!

    Glad it helped you out.
    deere140 likes this.

  15. #115
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    Ieatstangs I will try to get the part number, but I ordered it from advance auto it is called the egr vacuum solenoid, it is about 45 dollars. I called a few auto parts stores and it is a special order part at each of them.

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    Ok thanks I was confused I kept seeing egr solenoid but I figured that was something else

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    Couple things to add to this, first, I would get air check valve ses's when I would come to a light and drop to idle, so it may be on at idle as well.
    This was due to blocked air valves, the most common problem. You should be able to take it off and be able to blow into it, one direction should
    let air pass, the other shouldn't. The second thing is that A.I.R. and E.G.R. are different systems, so double check that you are getting the right part.
    The AIR solenoid is on drivers side rear of engine where the 2 check valve lines come together. EGR is connected to the throttle body. If you open
    your throttle body (not running) you can see the tube blocking it, good free mod to cut it off. Sorry to go into different directions . . .

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckstop00 View Post
    Couple things to add to this, first, I would get air check valve ses's when I would come to a light and drop to idle, so it may be on at idle as well.
    This was due to blocked air valves, the most common problem. You should be able to take it off and be able to blow into it, one direction should
    let air pass, the other shouldn't. The second thing is that A.I.R. and E.G.R. are different systems, so double check that you are getting the right part.
    The AIR solenoid is on drivers side rear of engine where the 2 check valve lines come together. EGR is connected to the throttle body. If you open
    your throttle body (not running) you can see the tube blocking it, good free mod to cut it off. Sorry to go into different directions . . .
    Yeah I've replaced both check valves all the hoses are connected getting vaccum from the intake 2 different pumps only thing left is the solenoid. ..I kno the air and egr are two different systems ...I searched for an air solenoid doesn't show up but if u search egr solenoid it shows the same part so I'm going to replace it and sees what happens

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    I think I may still have my Secondary Air solenoid if someone needs it...

  20. #120
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    Great write up on removal. I went out to look at pump and assess the situation. Wound up just dropping little access door and removing pump. I would suggest raising front and dropping splash guard - but years of experience working blind under dashes and other hard-to-get-to-places it wasn't too bad. Lol

    Once block off plates get here, I'll do top of motor.

    Thanks for thread - good stuff!!!
    pajeff02 likes this.

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