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Screeching sound coming from rear of the car - sound clip.

This is a discussion on Screeching sound coming from rear of the car - sound clip. within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; you should have enough to bring it along the frame rail like you have and then straight shot to the ...

  1. #21
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    you should have enough to bring it along the frame rail like you have and then straight shot to the alternator.

    My set up is different because I relocated mine to the passenger head. I had to route mine along the passenger side of the car and bring it up that way.

  2. #22
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    My problem right now is hooking it up to the alternator. I cannot remove the nut from the output stud. The stud is rotating as I turn the nut. I can't get to the 15mm rear nut as the instructions show because of the black cover. You can see the nut in the pic. Is that black cover removable? Or would I have to remove the complete alternator to get to that rear nut? I hope that is not the case.

    Thanks for any input you can provide.



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  3. #23
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    Screeching sound coming from rear of the car - sound clip.

    At this point I recommend you take the alternator off and then hook it up then reinstall. It would be easier that way.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

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  4. #24
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Screeching sound coming from rear of the car - sound clip.

    You might also want to check that ps pump. Looks like it's leaking. Usually it's from the o ring with the high pressure hose.

  5. #25
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    Oh boy. With my luck, probably something else wont allow me to take it out so easily .

    I don't think the PS pump is leaking, what you see in the pic is some WD40 I sprayed to try to get it to loosen up. What I did find out might be leaking is the oil pan. Unless it is the filter.



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    Before finishing up, I want to make sure I am getting the correct voltage. The connector on top of the fuel pump has 3 wires. With the key in the ON position, the green and orange wires have 13 volts while the gray wire has about 5.8 volts. Is that good, or should that read 13 volts as well?


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  7. #27
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    That's correct.

    Gray wire IIRC is for the fuel level.

  8. #28
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    So I finished installing everything. It wouldn't work at first, it wouldn't prime. Found that the fuse was no good so I swapped it with the spare one included in the kit and it worked.

    After about a week of gerting it to start I took it for my first long drive (20 miles). I was there for an hour, then when I was getting ready to head back home, the pump wouldn't prime. I couldn't hear the pump working at all. Tried starting it, but no luck. I had to wait 3 hours for a tow truck. Took an extra hour to get home. Now the car is on the side of the street.

    I checked the fuse and it is fine. It is getting 13 volts on both ends of where the fuse is connected (on the end coming in from the alternator and on the end going to the pump). I can hear the relay that comes with the wire harness being activated (so the fuel pump relay under the hood is working) so as for it to prime, but I cannot hear the pump at all. It seems to me it is not getting any power as it is behaving exactly like it did when the fuse was bad. It's pretty hard to get to the connectors where the wire harness is hooked up because that side of the car is facing the street and I would have to remove the tire to get to those.

    Anything else you guys think I should check? Is there any way to "hotwire" the pump and activate it directly bypassing the racetronix relay?

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  9. #29
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    I woke up bright and early today, removed the rear tire and changed the wiring back to stock. I turned the key, heard the pump priming, and the car fired up right away. I got the car back in the garage. I am not sure if I will try to diagnose what the issue is with the racetronix wire harness, or just leave the wiring like it came from the factory.

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  10. #30
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    I've been having a hell of a time with my harness and fuel pump. Last week ordered a new harness because it was cheaper than a new fuel pump assembly for our cars. Swapped it out and so far it seems fixed. Mine would cut out randomly. Drove me nuts.

  11. #31
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    I don't understand why it worked perfectly fine up until I parked. I even tried starting it right after I turned it off and it started fine. An hour later, the pump is not getting the 13 volts. Nothing was done to the car during that hour that could have messed up the connections.

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  12. #32
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    Swap out a new fuel relay. If you were getting power then not, I would think it's coming from before the pump and racetronix relay. Which means fuse box or pcm.

  13. #33
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    So you know how I thought I had it figured out....turns out it had not. One day as I was getting ready to take it out for a spin....I heard the pump was not priming, and of course, it would crank and crank, but not fire up. At this point, I had completely bypassed the racetronix wire harness, and the wiring was as before I installed the wire harness. So I disconnected the 8 pin connector to verify that the gray and black wires were properly in place and reconnected it. I went back inside and heard the pump prime and it fired up; and I took it for a spin, came back, and thought it was fixed.

    Yesterday I went to a McDonalds and while sitting in the parking lot in idle as I was getting ready to head out, it shut off. When the car is not in a quiet place, it is difficult to hear the pump priming. I cranked it, but it would not start. So I got under the car and reached up to the 8 pin connector and wiggled the wires, went back into the car, cranked it, and it started. When I got back home, I jacked up the car, removed the rear tire, and took out the gray and black wires from the 8 pin connector as I was pretty sure by now that one of these wires was causing the issue. I reconnected the racetronix harness (which means the harness is fine), fired up the car, and while in idle started to wiggle the gray and black wires. The car shut off when I wiggled the black wire. I tried it again, and got the same result when I wiggled the black wire. Both stock gray and black wires that go to the pump seem kind of "forced" or too stretched when I hook them up to the racetronix wire harness, so I bypassed the harness and reconnected them to the 8 pin connector. What I ended up doing was using zip ties to tie the wires from the 8 pin connector to the wires from the connector right below it, so as to not give the wires and room to wiggle while the car is in motion and then tied the tube (with the wires that go from the connector to the pump) to another connector that is closer to the tank to also reduce the wiggle room. I'm thinking that if the wire does not have wiggle room, I should not get the faulty connection issue.

    Up until yesterday, the pump had never stopped working while the car was running. The last couple times, I would find there was an issue with the pump whenever I was going to start the car. So this leaves me with a couple of questions. If the faulty connection seemed to be caused by the black wire, I am guessing due to motion from driving the car, why would I usually be able to park the car fine and then the next time I would try to start it, get the issue? It seems to me that if the car was running fine when I parked it (the chances of the wire wiggling while the car was parked are much lower than while in motion) why would I get the issue when I went back to the car? If the issue was caused by the wiggling of the wire, the car should shut off while in motion when the faulty connection happens, not after it has been sitting perfectly still. Dont get me wrong, I prefer the issue to happen when the car is parked instead of when it is in motion. So this leads me to believe that it might have something to do with the the temperature of the wires maybe? I did notice that the gray wire gets hot when the car is running (I am guessing that is the wire that sends the ~13v to the pump); and it is intertwined with the black wire. Could the hot temperature from the gray wire affect the conductivity of the black wire? I would think not since the stock pump was working properly (in the sense it did not have any electrical/faulty connection issues) before I started messing with the wiring.

    Sorry for the long post. I drove the car to work today to get the car in motion, went over some train tracks, to see if tying the wires down has fixed the issue, and I was thinking about all of this on my way to work.

  14. #34
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    Sounds like you are having the same phantom issue I've been having for a couple of months now. Do I have a solution - not yet. I've replaced everything as of this weekend. Friday night I replaced the whole pump hanger assembly and swapped over my Racetronix pump.

    Test drive went well but I haven't really driven it around long enough or on the roads it would usually give me problems.

    If this works I'll let you know. Hell it could be that the connector pins have gone bad

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    I have managed to narrow it down to the black wire going from the 8 pin connector to the pump. The wire was really bent close to the terminal when I had it coming out of the racetronix connector. I do not know if that somehow damaged the wire.

    From what I understand, the only way to get a new connector w/wires would be to change the pump hanger assembly.

  16. #36
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    That's what I just did as well as new harness form Racetronix. I'll let you know if this fixes mine.


    You might be able to repin the wire if the pin is cracked or about to break.

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    The pin and terminal look good.

    I parked the car after coming from work Monday evening. I tried to start it today (Wednesday evening), and the same thing happened where I turned the key and could not hear the pump priming. I can even hear the relay in the fuse box, but not the pump. I got under the rear of the car; pushed the wires coming out of the connector, turned the key, and I could hear the pump priming and the car fired up.

    Again, I can't think of why if the pump worked fine when I parked the car, it got the faulty connection issue when I went to start it back up. So far, the car works fine, but after it cools down, the faulty connection appears, and it won't start the next time I try to use it.

    I'm thinking of cutting off the terminal along with a quarter inch of the wire, and put the terminal back on and hook it up. It seems to me like the problem is where the wire was bent right behind the terminal.


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  18. #38
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    Take the plastic piece off that holds the wires in place and separate. Next using a small screw driver or something you can use to push on the wire connector to push out the wire from the connector. Once out see if it is cracked or loose or the wire is spliced.

    It may just need a new connector.



    For now it seems my gremlin is fixed. I'm now get 60psi on my fuel pressure gauge without any fluctuation. Prior to this new assembly I was getting between 54-58psi and it would vary.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 07-21-2016 at 08:16 AM.

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    Here is a pic I took on the weekend when I thought I had resolved the issue by strapping these down snuggly with zip ties.

    I do not think the issue is in the connector because when I hooked it up to the racetronix wire harness and wiggled the black wire, the car shut off. That's why I think the issue is with the black wire.


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  20. #40
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    Which wire came from the 2nd from the right side, top row?

    It looks like the connector is a little burn there.


    Carefully try to close the connector tip on the wire some, it could be opened enough that it is loosely touching the pin when plugged in.

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